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Old September 22nd, 2012, 01:55 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Truss rod adjustment nut?

Ok so instead of a nut which u adjust with a hex key on the end of the truss rod can I just have this nut sitting on the headstock poking out of the hole and use a standard spanner (wrench) to adjust it?

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Old September 22nd, 2012, 02:15 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Old September 22nd, 2012, 02:48 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I'd say maybe. It might be easier to put holes in the nut perpendicular to the centerline of the threads and turn it with say a punch or small phillips screwdriver. Kind of like a Teisco nut.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/28322089@N02/2961936921/
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Old September 22nd, 2012, 03:02 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Why woudnt the coupling nut work with a single action truss rod?
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Old September 22nd, 2012, 03:57 PM   #5 (permalink)
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For m5 rod it work pretty well, but you have to get long wrench, at last longer than headstock and you have to drill about 15mm cavity to fit this wrench. it does not look so good though. For relic or "trashy" rat tuning it be the best there is. Why won't you buy normal nut in music shop?
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Old September 22nd, 2012, 04:33 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kokodin
why won't you buy normal nut in music shop?
Whats the technical name for a "normal" nut?
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Old September 22nd, 2012, 06:20 PM   #7 (permalink)
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not as i ad sung-il or any other manufacturer but they have pretty much closest info about "truss rod nuts" as you would get. As i understend unf 10-32 is basicaly m5x08 but in inches.
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Old September 22nd, 2012, 08:27 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Whats the technical name for a "normal" nut?
"Truss rod nut"

There is a similar nut used on bicycles to hold brake callipers on, they come in different lengths and take an an Allen key.

Problem with using a regular nut is you need extra room, weakening the headstock, to get the spanner in.
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Old September 23rd, 2012, 02:56 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jefrs

"Truss rod nut"

There is a similar nut used on bicycles to hold brake callipers on, they come in different lengths and take an an Allen key.

Problem with using a regular nut is you need extra room, weakening the headstock, to get the spanner in.
Is it possible for a photo of this nut and if it sits on the headstock and not embedded in it how does it weaken it?
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Old September 23rd, 2012, 12:20 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I just get hex-wrench truss rod nuts form USACG - they end up being cheaper than those couplers that you showed above - and work really well. They have them custom made.
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Old September 24th, 2012, 08:19 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Is it possible for a photo of this nut and if it sits on the headstock and not embedded in it how does it weaken it?
The clearance hole for the spanner is huge, you have to remove a lot of wood to get a spanner in there - that weakens the headstock.

Bicycle brake calliper nut
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...?ModelID=17557
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Old September 25th, 2012, 11:27 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
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The clearance hole for the spanner is huge, you have to remove a lot of wood to get a spanner in there - that weakens the headstock.

Bicycle brake calliper nut
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...?ModelID=17557
Thanks but what thread is it? I need m6
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Old September 25th, 2012, 11:59 AM   #13 (permalink)
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If there were a cheaper way of doing it, Leo and/or the bean-counters at CBS probably would have figured it out.

M6 is just shy of 1/4" which is a bit thick for a single action truss rod. Most are 3/16, which is just shy of M5

You can make a nut on your own if you have a way to drill/tap a hole in some round stock, and cut a slot in it. But for the expense and time involved its probably cheaper to just buy the nut.
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Old September 25th, 2012, 01:53 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Thanks but what thread is it? I need m6
Modern bicycles are all metric so the bike nut will be M5 or M6, I think the latter but I'm not pulling a bike apart to find out...

You will still be better off getting a pukka truss rod nut

http://www.allparts.uk.com/online-sh...1_125_128.html
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Old September 30th, 2012, 03:21 PM   #15 (permalink)
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If there were a cheaper way of doing it, Leo and/or the bean-counters at CBS probably would have figured it out.

M6 is just shy of 1/4" which is a bit thick for a single action truss rod. Most are 3/16, which is just shy of M5

You can make a nut on your own if you have a way to drill/tap a hole in some round stock, and cut a slot in it. But for the expense and time involved its probably cheaper to just buy the nut.
I think you will find they are metric because the world has gone to metric sizes for the last 60-odd years, including the USA officially, and Mexico certainly. Last time I saw a Fender heel truss rod nut, it was metric, I had occasion to re-tap it.

The real problem is the rest of the world is not going to keep making special obsolete sizes just for the USA, there's a big market out there and small production runs are uneconomic.
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