Neck rout cut wrong, what to do...

[goonie]

Hey DIYers I have an issue with the body I bought for a build, wanted to get some opinions.

Here's a pic--



The problem is with the neck pocket. The holes are correct but the rout is off by 1 to 3 mm -- this varies as the top side rout (left side of neck pocket in the pic) is cut at a slight angle. So I'm going to have to widen the top side neck pocket rout considerably (using a dremel). This will mean that on the bottom side of the neck pocket (right side of pic) there will be a 1-3mm wide "ledge" where the neck meets the body -- not a nice flush join. I can't sand the body down so it is flush with the side of the neck because that would ruin the finish.

Returning the body is an option, although I'm still investigating how much I'll be up for in freight. The body only cost $70 (get what you pay for huh).

But my question is -- from a cosmetic point of view is that "ledge" going to be a killer? Will it stand out like a sore thumb? Anyone have pics of a guitar with one?

[piece of ash]

If the neck pocket, pickup routes, and bridge holes lay in straight line... you might be better leaving things as they are.

Moving the pocket would leave the bridge out of square (no huge deal because the saddles adjust). More importantly your pickups... especially the neck wouldn't be centered under the strings... and that might cause volume problems on the low E.

[trev333]

I see the bridge mount holes aren't drilled.. just the string throughs...

I'd mount the neck as is... run a straight edge down each side of it and establish a new centre line to see where the bridge sits.... and see how the routs line up....

the string through holes may be a few mm off?... if that's your reference point at the bridge end...

[J Lacey]

Have you test fit your neck yet? I just built my first using templates and correct drawings and my pocket is more narrow in the front than it is in the back. Matter of fact you have to lift my neck straight up to remove it because it will not just slide out because of the tapered pocket. if you do need to widen the pocket to fit your neck I would make an exact template using your neck and in turn use that template to correct the pocket. One thing I learned during my build was that center lines are what you live by. Center line the body and the neck and try to figure out what needs to be done from this starting point.........No matter what adjustments you need to make, everything still needs to be dead center after your repair otherwise you'll have trouble fitting your bridge and pick guard. Remember your string through holes are already determined. There's got to be a way to fix it with-out leaving extra wood showing on the right. Take your time, you'll figure it out.........


Jeff

[guitarbuilder]

Maybe the holes are spaced correctly from each other but not centered in the pocket? This is not unusual in cheap bodies. The rout looks OK from here and as mentioned the necks are tapered, the widest part at the neck pickup end of things.

[goonie]

Thanks all for the replies. Here's a close up of the pocket you can see how close the holes are to the top side -- especially the neck end hole (top left in pic) , which is centred about 5mm from the side instead of the usual 8mm or so.



piece of ash & trev -- leaving things as they are means I won't be able to use the neck I bought, a lovely rosewood MIJ Fender.

When I contacted the supplier, EY Guitars, he said it doesn't matter where the neck holes are drilled, you just drill the neck to suit -- which is fine if you're using a new, undrilled neck. I guess I might just have to put the Fender neck aside and get a new one for this build.

J Lacey -- Thanks, I will do a test fit and measure accurately to figure out if the pocket is cut correctly.

guitarbuilder -- yes it appears the holes are spaced correctly but not centred in the pocket. I wouldn't mind if they were a bit off centre but they are way to the left. I knew it was a gamble buying cheap Chinese. The problem with being in Australia is that the quality US stuff costs so much by the time you add freight of $100+.

[deadicated]

It appears to me the neck pocket is either not straight as you said or off center in some way. On the low E side of the pocket it should come to a point not have that little lip. Use the center line of your neck once it's in the pocket to figure how ams how far it's off. You would need to grind and shim to keep the pocket tight most likely.

[flyingbanana]

Nevermind....I blinked and saw the problem. That doesn't look to good. I would put a neck on and see if the rest of the stuff lines up. It might all be off center and not just the pocket. If that's the case, it would look odd, but still work.

Put a neck on there and tape a bridge in place and check the lines to see if it would work.

[mike shaw]

Simple fix. If the rout is properly located but the holes are off, simply plug all of the holes (including the neck) with a hardwood dowel and redrill everything.

[mgdesigns]

Put a neck or neck template on that body, and run a couple of test strings to see if all is centered correctly. If the holes are incorrectly placed, plug them with dowels, and re-drill using a good neck plate as a guide. If the neck is canted down, you'll have to re-route the pocket; filling it first to give the wood back where needed. It's just wood!! Go for it.

[piece of ash]

Are you suggesting the OP ascertain exactly what is wrong... BEFORE fixing it???

What is this world coming to?

[Picton]

Whichever way you go with the fix, a Dremel might not be the most accurate way to do it... just sayin.

As for the holes already drilled in the neck, plugging and redrilling would be easy.

[crazydave911]

Originally Posted by piece of ash

Are you suggesting the OP ascertain exactly what is wrong... BEFORE fixing it???

What is this world coming to?

How dare he

[goonie]

Originally Posted by deadicated

It appears to me the neck pocket is either not straight as you said or off center in some way. On the low E side of the pocket it should come to a point not have that little lip.

That struck me as odd too.

Originally Posted by Picton

Whichever way you go with the fix, a Dremel might not be the most accurate way to do it... just sayin.

I'm more comfortable fixing cars so don't have much in the way of woodworking tools. What wo9uld you suggest instead.

As for the holes already drilled in the neck, plugging and redrilling would be easy.

I guess so, I just have to get over the thought of meddling with that nice 25yo neck.

I will do a string-up test as advised and test the geometry. Thanks all!

[goonie]

Well, I've done the test and it seems the pocket is cut correctly:



Picture is not from directly above but the two E strings are the same distance from the edge of the fingerboard.

So it looks like my options are:
a) Buy a new, undrilled neck;
b) Plug the holes in the neck; or
c) Plug the holes in the body.

I guess (b) makes more sense and would be less hassle than (c) but I will probably go with (c) as I would rather mess with the cheap body than with that nice old neck.

Thanks guys for helping me out.

[Crafty Fox]

Plug the holes and re-drill using the neck-plate as your guide. At least the repair will be concealed. Check that the neck-plate has the same hole positions as the neck.
I'm near Joondalup if you need help. I've got a drill press for accuracy. PM me for mobile number.

[trev333]

plug the holes in the body... cut off 4 nails and drop them into the neck screw holes so just the smallest point sticks out...

put some tape in the pocket... put the neck back in gently, line it up and clamp it down..
the nail points in the neck screw holes will mark the neck pocket for the new screw locations.. to use your fender neck....

redrill body and mount your good neck...

one way to do it... ;)

[piece of ash]

Keep in mind, the holes in the body do NOT need to fit the neck screws tightly... not at all. These screws operate in tension, not shear, so there is no need to plug the holes already there. Just rasp, drill, "waller" those holes toward the center of the pocket enough for the screws to start and you're good.

[Picton]

Fortunately, my Dremel comment is moot now; I was just saying that it's difficult for a Dremel to stay straight and even on a task like this, and not need any sort of touch-up afterward. They can wander easily. There are edge guides for them, but I doubt they'd work in such a constricted area. You seemed concerned about the paint on the body, so I thought I'd bring it up.

Congrats on a relatively easy fix. And I'll echo Piece of Ash's last point; those body holes ought to be fairly oversized.

[goonie]

The title of this thread haunts me! Boy did I get that wrong. Ah well, it's worked out fine, that's the main thing! I plugged the body holes then carefully used a paper template of the neck to mark and drill new holes. It probably wasn't really necessary to plug the existing body holes, but it easy enough to do with some 4mm dowel and glue.

I guess plugging the neck holes would have been smarter and more foolproof, but it's all good now. Bridge installed and everything lines up well.




The keen eyed will notice a bit of bare wood on the body near the neck. That's where I had to remove a sliver of painted wood that I thought was bound to break off and take even more finish with it if I hadn't removed it. That's what you get for $70! Hopefully won't stand out so much after I've touched it up with some modelling paint. Or maybe I'll just leave it like that and call it character!