Fretting saw - Harbor Freight Japanese flush cut saw

[grimespace]

Hi all:

Started on my first guitar a few weeks ago. Going slowly through the process, carefully working my way through jigs and templates that will (hopefully) make it through to subsequent builds. Also trying to build up the necessary tools, which as I'm sure everyone knows are not too cheap.

I was at Harbor Freight today, and saw this flush-cut saw that I think may be near-perfect for cutting fret slots. Have any of you tried it? It's only $7.99 right now - pretty good deal as opposed to what Stew Mac is charging. My biggest concern is that the extra thousandth of an inch (.024 for the saw thickness, as opposed to fret tangs being .023) would make enough difference to cause slop in the frets. Any thoughts?

Here's a link to the advertisement: http://www.harborfreight.com/japanes...saw-39273.html

...and here's picture of the saw packaging

[Picton]

Works fine. Lots of us use that saw. It does flex somewhat, though, so some folks epoxy a spine onto it... but I've never needed to.

[Midnighttoil]

Works fine. Lots of us use that saw. It does flex somewhat, though, so some folks epoxy a spine onto it... but I've never needed to.

Do you mean a spine, at the border opposite the teeth, or a reinforcing stiffener similar in structure to Stew-Mac's optional adjustable bolt-on? I have the saw too, and I've considered such a thing.

[OpenG Capo4]

I have the Stew Mac miterbox and fretsaw, but I use that Harbor Fright saw for cleaning sawdust out of fret slots while sanding the radius. The extra .001 it adds to the slot width is negligible. You could probably even file/grind/sand it down it bothered you that much.

[jeremyb]

One thing to keep in mind is the blade width and it's actual cut won't be the same, it could be about 30% wider!

[Westerly Sunn]

It's a flush cut saw and should have no set...Kerf should be same as blade thickness...

[guitarbuilder]

I used it on my last challenge build. I thought the slot was too wide for my stewmac fretwire. I think it will depend on your wire choice as it seems to work for most people. I stiffened mine up with double sided carpet tape and a piece of wood on both sides.

[Picton]

Originally Posted by doctorrockit

Do you mean a spine, at the border opposite the teeth, or a reinforcing stiffener similar in structure to Stew-Mac's optional adjustable bolt-on? I have the saw too, and I've considered such a thing.

I meant at the top, but I'm sure the other way would work as well... if you can bear to drill holes through such an expensive tool.

[motor_city_tele]

I've slotted about 20 necks with my "Top Man" HF razor saw. I too added some material to stiffin up the blade and to gauge the depth of cut.

[ehawley]

Just a thought on tang thickness...When I slot ebony, or any spieces related to ebony, I cut the tangs around .002-.003 wider then the tang size. Of course I use an endmill in a cnc so the slots are the exact thicness of the mill. When you saw by hand, the slots are always a bit wider then the blade itself..That saw your looking at is just fine!

[Commodore 64]

I used it on my build challenge thread with stewmac fretwire. It flexes like crazy, you do need to add a spine. I used plexiglass and double sided tape, which also worked as a depth stop. The saw will work.

That said, I ordered Stewmacs fret saw. I wanted the rigidity.

[emoney]

I'll just agree with what everyone else has already said. I bought this saw at first, and it
is a good cutting saw for the money, but I'm much happier with the StewMac saw my
daughter got me for Christmas. Taking the depth stop out of the equation, the HF saw
is just a little too flexible for me. But, lots of people use and even fashion their own
depth stop so you'll be fine.

[fretman_2]

I've also been using the Harbor Freight Japanese flush cut saw, but recently invested in the StewMac precision mitre box and fret saw. The HF saw cut great, but was so flimsy. The StewMac saw has a stiff spine that will prevent it from flexing. I can also better control the dept with the precision mitre box and the added template takes all the guess work out of fret location.

[pulaifaz]

I have used this inexpensive option and it works great

[ugly_guitar_guy]

Check out my 2012 build challenge. I used it, and it worked great.

[fretman_2]

I added a depth stop to my HF saw, but it still wanted to flex where the blade meets the handle.

[crazydave911]

I have one of these and one very similar from Home Depot. They both work just fine

[mmoncur]

I used this saw (unmodified) on my challenge build. I marked the fret lines in pencil and then used a combination square - when you hold the saw against the square and pull carefully, it doesn't flex much. Now that I've done a neck with it I've learned the technique and wouldn't think twice about using it again.

[mgdesigns]

Pull saws should not flex - you're pulling not pushing. YMMV

[crazydave911]

Originally Posted by mgdesigns

Pull saws should not flex - you're pulling not pushing. YMMV

yep