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| Tele Home Depot Building a T-Style guitar? From scratch or from parts. This is the forum for you. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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TDPRI Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: California
Posts: 34
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Split in joint of Fender rejected body
I saw a craigslist advertisement in Los Angeles by a guy who was selling purportedly rejected bodies which were machined at the "local Fender factory" and sent back to the wood dealer for credit because they were flawed blanks. I thought it would be a good way to pick up some bodies at a discount for a summer project but when I went to go pick it up I saw that they were all in worse condition than i anticipated.
I bought the best two I could find. One of them has a split down the center seam where the joint is coming apart. It's wide enough that I can see light shine through the body when I hold it up to the sun. My cousin who builds furniture for a living says that the only way to repair it is to cut out that area and splice in a new piece of wood (either as a pinstripe down the middle up to the bridge or as a large triangular insert at the bottom). Would there really be no better way? I wanted these for transparent finishes like Butterscotch Blonde and I don't want another piece of wood showing up in the grains. Besides, I bought this one regardless of the split joint because it had a nice wide-spread grain. Can't I try to seep in some glue and clamp it shut again? ![]() ![]() ![]()
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#2 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
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Try to wedge it open a bit, and squeeze some Titebond I into the crack, and clamp for a day. Should survive OK. Otherwise, split it all the way down, sand flat with 200 grit sand paper on glass sheet and rejoin with Titebond I. 0.01mm of loss in wood won't amount to much.
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MGDESIGNS - Custom Hand Engraving Shopsmith '55 Greenie (now with 1990 headstock), ROSS, PC router, Craftsman router, assorted hand tools. Maker of Exquisite Kindling & Sawdust |
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#6 (permalink) |
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TDPRI Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: California
Posts: 34
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Yes, I also believe some or all of these are Mexican made. But then I read that a lot of the MIM bodies are actually CNC routed in america? So maybe that's what these are?
Also, one of them -- the split-joint one -- has "S.P.R." stamped in the neck pocket, which I thought might mean Spring Branch, Texas. This one also has "NAT" for i'm assuming, "natural" int he pickup cavity, and only one CNC router guide under the pickguard. Let me know what any of this means. PS. who thinks I can just glue this seam back together and be good? Also, I paid 65$ each body. Steal or bad deal?
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#7 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Haarlem, Holland.
Age: 49
Posts: 1,377
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You can fill the void with epoxy, gluing and clamping is not an option. It will open up eventually if it is possible to clamp it shut anyway. A very thin spline will di the trick and if well executed hardly visible.
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Doctor of Teleocity
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Quote:
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. Disclaimer: When I say something.... always ask yourself ..... "What the hell does he know?" I'm just not cool enough to be a Mac person. I'm a PC and Windows 7 was my idea. |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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Friend of Leo's
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Illinois
Posts: 2,760
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Quote:
Are the bodies worth what you paid? That's up to you. You can buy Mighty Mite bodies for less than $100.00, and I've bought several complete Squier Telecasters for around $100.00.
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Yet another hobby that is completely out of control... |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Queensland Australia
Age: 65
Posts: 1,503
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I'd cut it in half along the join and then whack in a nice rosewood or ebony filler the same thickness as the saw blade kerf, and make it a feature!
You could then resell it at a profit!! (or is that prophet?)
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" I have this piece of wood that I've cut three times and it's still too short! " |
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#14 (permalink) | |
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formerly "Big" Mike Simpson
Poster Extraordinaire
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Quote:
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#15 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Hudson Beach, Florida
Age: 48
Posts: 1,007
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It's already been said more than once, but if you really want to fix it, it needs to be
split all the way up, and even then I'd probably want the 2 pieces to sit for a while. Then, put a filler strip between the two and go from there. No sense asking the question "did I get a good deal", because at this point, there's no go back so what does it matter?
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Just another squirrel trying to get a nut |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Poster Extraordinaire
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Hemlock, NY
Age: 59
Posts: 6,360
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You'd be better off filling the gap with some glue with gap filling properties and just painting it an opaque color.
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Institute of Incomplete Guitar Projects |
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