Fixing janked up output jack hole.

[OpenG Capo4]

Nice pinecaster I made a few months ago:



Unfortunately, I messed up drilling the output hole:



Slice off the damaged section:


Thru the jointer:


Mark and cut the grafted section from one of the offcuts from the original body:




Bandsawed it out, ran it thru the jointer, liquid hide glue, and clamps:


Hoping to end up with a straight-grained repair that will probably be hidden by a sunburst. I cut the repair at an angle so I could run the body thru the jointer without it contacting the horn.

[guitar2005]

That hole was salvagable.

[OpenG Capo4]

I could have probably just put a LP plate over it, or drilled it out oversize and dowelled it up, but this only took about 30 minutes to do, and most of that time was spent installing a new bandsaw blade, clearing junk off my table saw, and looking in my scrap pile for the right sized offcut to make the graft from.

[kwerk]

Good save, but I'm curious as to why you went with the angle over cutting along the grain? There appears to be a body joint between the cavity and the side of the guitar, so I would have thought it would be relatively simple to replace that piece?

[Picton]

Originally Posted by OpenG Capo4

I cut the repair at an angle so I could run the body thru the jointer without it contacting the horn.

Nice repair; a handplane would have allowed a straight-grain fix without worrying about the horn. Just a thought for next time.

[OpenG Capo4]

Originally Posted by kwerk

Good save, but I'm curious as to why you went with the angle over cutting along the grain? There appears to be a body joint between the cavity and the side of the guitar, so I would have thought it would be relatively simple to replace that piece?

I did it this way because I could get the angled cut thru the jointer. And I also cut out the tearout next to the jack hole that I had filled with glue/sawdust. I probably could have separated the seam on the glued on section and glued in another piece, but I've never actually separated a glued joint before.

I'll be routing the new section with my spiral upcut bit so hopefully I'll get it done with no tearout and the repair will be seamless after sanding and sealer.

[kwerk]

Originally Posted by OpenG Capo4

I did it this way because I could get the angled cut thru the jointer. And I also cut out the tearout next to the jack hole that I had filled with glue/sawdust. I probably could have separated the seam on the glued on section and glued in another piece, but I've never actually separated a glued joint before.

I'll be routing the new section with my spiral upcut bit so hopefully I'll get it done with no tearout and the repair will be seamless after sanding and sealer.

My thought wasn't so much in ungluing the joint but in cutting it off completely. I just reasoned that seeing as you already had a joint there it wouldn't be out of the question to have a joint in that part of the body. But I get the difficulty with the jointer access.

[Fatcat211]

Im rather new to this stuff (still on my first build) so bear with me, but I have seen many post from seasoned builders that say avoid end grain joinery. Are you less concerned since this joint will not be bearing tension?

[OpenG Capo4]

I hadn't really considered the end grain aspect of it, I was just thinking of how I could get a quick repair that removed as little wood as possible. But it doesn't bear any tension on it so it will hopefully be alright. I might drill it and insert a couple dowells just to be sure.

[Picton]

Originally Posted by Fatcat211

Im rather new to this stuff (still on my first build) so bear with me, but I have seen many post from seasoned builders that say avoid end grain joinery. Are you less concerned since this joint will not be bearing tension?

Fine Woodworking did a test a few years ago, in which they made a bunch of different 90-degree joints with normal Titebond and then squashed them to see which would break at different PSI. The best performer was the dovetail, but the humble 45-degree miter joint with no reinforcement performed only marginally worse.

Depending on the angle at which you cut the slant, the joint can still be pretty strong, especially if it's glued to another piece's long grain. With that said, you should avoid gluing end grain cut straight across. It'll fail, eventually.

[guitarbuilder]

If there is a next time when this happens, just cut it off on the glue joint or right on the control rout and add new wood to the edge. You don't need to disassemble a glue joint, just saw on one side or the other of it. Joint that surface and reglue the new piece on.It'll blend in like it was supposed to be there and nobody will be the wiser.

[OpenG Capo4]

Well the glue seems to have taken hold pretty strong. After sanding you can tell theres a seam, because the grain doesn't match, but I think once its under a burst and has a roundover or binding on it it'll be fine. I bandsawed it down close to the line this afternoon. Once I find my double sided tape somewhere under the rubble from this year's challenge build I'll attach my template and route it.

[R. Stratenstein]

Originally Posted by Picton

Fine Woodworking did a test a few years ago, in which they made a bunch of different 90-degree joints with normal Titebond and then squashed them to see which would break at different PSI. The best performer was the dovetail, but the humble 45-degree miter joint with no reinforcement performed only marginally worse.

Depending on the angle at which you cut the slant, the joint can still be pretty strong, especially if it's glued to another piece's long grain. With that said, you should avoid gluing end grain cut straight across. It'll fail, eventually.

Since this isn't a true end-grain glue up, it's more of a hybrid of end and long grain for both pieces, and given that there will be relatively little stress on the joint, I'm guessing this won't be any problem.

Know what you mean about the Challenge clutter. I've got a good 2-3 hour cleanup, maybe more, down in the shop, that I haven't had the ba))$ to face yet!

[OpenG Capo4]

Clean as a whistle in a single pass. I love this bit.

Cut it for binding too. Don't have any white or cream binding in stock to go with a sunburst finish so it will have to wait til I can order some. Gonna start on the neck tomorrow.