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| Tele Home Depot Building a T-Style guitar? From scratch or from parts. This is the forum for you. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Virginia
Posts: 201
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Electric Buffer - Buy or Build?
All,
I have looked around the forum a bit, and on the internet for a "Buffer". I've seen the one's at StewMac, etc. but I can't believe that someone on this forum has not built one of their own that cost less, and does a better job . . . Any suggestions for plans to build one, a good one to use, is it worth the money to just buy the StewMac one. Links and pictures appreciated !!
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Way too many tools, and not enough wall space for my guitars . . . . . |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: StL, Mo
Age: 50
Posts: 310
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I used to use the outside spindle on my lathe, then I built one. The one Satch describes works well but get as long a rod as you can find. It sucks when you bump a pulley and ding a body.
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Thos. "Make your own mistakes not someone elses, this is a good way to be original !" |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Virginia
Posts: 201
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Where can I find a picture of a setup like your talking about? If I can see it, I can probably put it together.
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Way too many tools, and not enough wall space for my guitars . . . . . |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Doctor of Teleocity
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Tucson, AZ
Age: 29
Posts: 18,923
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![]() These are about 6$ at O'Reilly Autoparts. When used with the appropriate buffing/polishing compounds and a cordless drill, it gets better results than my big hand buffer with a lambs wool bonnet. ![]() ![]() Stationary buffers are wonderful as long as they are big enough to manipulate the entire guitar around, but unless you are buffing a lot, I would highly suggest looking into the foam pads.
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the now mandatory =====> |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Tele-Holic
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Atlanta, GA
Age: 31
Posts: 545
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I got this HF one for, like.....cheap:
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-buffer-94393.html The main issue is that it operates at 3600 RPM - kinda fast....but Grizzly sells buffing wheels for these high RPMs that are made for wood finishing. I am going to try them out |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Afflicted
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Colt...do you have one pad each for pre polish and polish?
Quote:
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#9 (permalink) |
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Doctor of Teleocity
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Tucson, AZ
Age: 29
Posts: 18,923
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Yes, I never mix compounds on pads. If you do a good job spraying, you can sand with 1000 grit and 1500 grit, then just use a light duty polishing compound.
If I don't do a good job spraying, I level sand with 400 grit, then 1000 grit, then I use 3M Super Duty rubbing compound followed by the light duty polishing compound. Im constantly trying new things to make the buffing process easier, and of everything I have ever tried, good prep work and good spray technique make the real difference.
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the now mandatory =====> |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Doctor of Teleocity
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Foam polishing pads are for car paints. There's a lot of money involved in car body work repair and appearance. So they have very good efficient products. And we use car paints on guitars.
There are hard foam pads for cutting, medium pads for intermediate polishing and soft pads for the ultra fine polish, and extra soft pads for sealant and/or wax You can get direct fit or Velcro backing plates in various sizes for a) electric drill, but the drill is not usually fast enough. b) Or for orbital polisher/sander, which is most efficient but can make scuffs if it goes pear shaped. c) Or for dual action polishers, probably best for the finishing polish. A random orbit sander may also work but generally not fast enough. One advantage of the finishing polishes used on these pads is it gets finer and finer as it is used up, leaving it all very very smooth. Equivalent to 4000-5000 grit.
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There's two kinds of people, those that hear the music and those that don't. |
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