High-Figure Walnut Pickguard - Finishes?

[AlanT]

Hey All,

I have a finishing question for you. I have 3 pickguards made from high-figure walnut burl - pic below.

My question: what to finish it with? I'd like a nice, built-up gloss finish. My concerns are crazing or cracking due to flexing (it's pretty thin) and I also need to pore-fill quite a bit. Epoxy? I can spray Nitro - I've heard the Behlen's instrument lacquer is made for more flex than the regular nitro lacquer. Any input greatly appreciated!

[dr_zaius]

I use watco danish oil on my wooden pickguards. I figure clearing over them would just look awful after the pick does its damage after a week of normal playing. The danish oil doesnt give it a gloss, but it does bring out the beauty in the wood, and the pick attacks don't seem to bother it much. Also watco can be re-applied at any time with minimal prep.

[ehawley]

Fabulon floor finish!....Nice and hard AND scuff resistant!

[emoney]

I think I'd use a poly based clear, finishing it separately from the body of course. It's going to be very nice however you do it.

[AlanT]

Thanks for the responses! Maybe I'll try one of each. I'm particularly interested in making sure the finish doesn't crack. With such a thin piece of wood, it could easily crack/craze with the pressure of mounting it. The Watco definitely would not crack and I can see that a floor finish would be formulated to allow some flex.

[dr_zaius]

Here's an oak Strat pick guard finished with Watco Danish Oil (natural) and for comparison, a pic of the unfinished oak the guard was cut from.

[tnt423]

You could always use decoupage clear and build it up thick. It's been done before and can be buffed if scratched, just make sure that the last coat is levevel enough to sand and buff so you don't get witness lines.
Very nice burl there.

[Colt W. Knight]

I would seal that with Birchwood Casey Sealer/ Filler, then apply clear lacquer. Wet sand with 1500 grit, then buff with a light duty polishing compound and apply a wax. It will look like a million bucks.

[tiskit86]

Originally Posted by Colt W. Knight

I would seal that with Birchwood Casey Sealer/ Filler, then apply clear lacquer. Wet sand with 1500 grit, then buff with a light duty polishing compound and apply a wax. It will look like a million bucks.

Yep. /\ /\

But I like walnut best when it's darker and 3 dimensional, so I might also use a little stain too to get it darker brown. It might be dark enough after the BC filler/sealer though.

[dazzaman]

I am days away from starting to apply a finish to a burr walnut pickguard in my challenge build. My finish will be nitrocellulose. In my case the guitar is for me, and I pick with my fingers so there is no risk of damage. If you have the time to wait you could always see what happens in my case - even if it is a lesson in what NOT to do...

[SixShooter]

Shellac is a very traditional finish for walnut furniture. Amber shellac would warm it up quite a bit. Another idea would be Tru Oil. Do some tests on scrap.

[Colt W. Knight]

Originally Posted by tiskit86

Yep. /\ /\

But I like walnut best when it's darker and 3 dimensional, so I might also use a little stain too to get it darker brown. It might be dark enough after the BC filler/sealer though.

I really like the color of air dried black walnut with a clear finish, but kiln dried walnut looses some color. It almost has some grayish tones. I will stain those.

[Colt W. Knight]

Originally Posted by SixShooter

Shellac is a very traditional finish for walnut furniture. Amber shellac would warm it up quite a bit. Another idea would be Tru Oil. Do some tests on scrap.

Here is an example of amber shellac.