Paint - how long start to finish?

[Kinghat]

Just started clearing my first body last night, and it is swallowing the clear. How long is the average to completion? Days or weeks?

[Kinghat]

I have to work until after six everyday. I figure I may get an hour to two hours nightly to put in on it. Last night I sprayed three coats, and this morning it was barely at a matte-finish. I expect to put many coats on before I can even do the first sanding.

[mlp-mx6]

What kind of wood? What kind of finish?

[Colt W. Knight]

Originally Posted by Kinghat

Just started clearing my first body last night, and it is swallowing the clear. How long is the average to completion? Days or weeks?

If it is absorbing clear, you must have not used a sealer. Without using a sealer, no telling how long. I ussually get all my spraying done in 1 day if I have time, or about 3 days if I drag it out.

[Kinghat]

Sorry, it is pine that I've dyed with Colortone blue and green, and I'm using Seagrave Nitro clear

[Colt W. Knight]

Originally Posted by Kinghat

Sorry, it is pine that I've dyed with Colortone blue and green, and I'm using Seagrave Nitro clear

Did you use a sealer? Pine will absorb a lot of clear, especially end grain.

[Kinghat]

No. When I inquired about that previously, I was told just to use the clear, as sealer was about the same thing. But I am definitely open to suggestions. I actually wondered about using the sealer you can get at Lowes.

[Colt W. Knight]

Originally Posted by Kinghat

No. When I inquired about that previously, I was told just to use the clear, as sealer was about the same thing. But I am definitely open to suggestions. I actually wondered about using the sealer you can get at Lowes.

That was very poor advice, IMO, and I think you can understand why now.

A lot of different types of sealers. Some sealers are simply thick clear coats with additives to make them sand quicker, while other are completely different chemically, and designed to promote adhesion to the wood and clear.

Think of the pores in wood like a sponge. Sponges with more pores( kitchen sponge) absorb a lot more water, while something like foam rubber absorbs much less. The same is true for wood. Dense closed pore wood like maple, does not absorb much finish, while a softer wood like pine will. The varying grain patterns in certain woods, like pine, cause it to absorb finish a different rates.

A sealer, seals the pores, and prevents subsequent coats from absorbing into the wood.

There are everal available sealers at Lowes that would work well for clear lacquer

Zinnsers Seal Coat
Zinnsers aerosol shellac
Deft Sanding Sealer ( I prefer the brush on to aerosol)
Minwax Poly Sanding Sealer.

One good coat of sealer will prevent your clear from laying down and absorbing unevenly, but I would recommend two just to be safe. You can sand your sealer with 320 or 400 to make sure its nice and flat. If it is not flat, do not proceed to clear without first correcting the problem.

[Kinghat]

Thanks Colt, that is awesome advice. I will go to Lowes and get some Deft - can you spray it from a gun?

[Colt W. Knight]

Originally Posted by Kinghat

Thanks Colt, that is awesome advice. I will go to Lowes and get some Deft - can you spray it from a gun?

I have sprayed Deft Sealer from a gun.

If you have a Sherwin Williams or Rockler near by, go grab some Vinyl Sealer. That is by far, the best sealer available for nitro lacquer.

[Kinghat]

There is a SW down the street from me. I'll try that. Thanks again. This is why i love forums, th egreat people in them.

[Shepherd]

Originally Posted by Kinghat

No. When I inquired about that previously, I was told just to use the clear, as sealer was about the same thing. But I am definitely open to suggestions. I actually wondered about using the sealer you can get at Lowes.

They were right. Unless you are using wood that contain tannins, very oily or building something exposed to high humidity you dont need special sealers. The first coat always seals the wood no matter what you use and a thinner clear will soak deeper into the wood giving better adhesion instead of sitting on top. Sanding sealers also contain talc which causes poor adhesion with following coats, feels like a layer of soap. There's a big difference between using a spray can, spray gun or paint brush. A spray can just cant lay the material on as thick as using the other methods. Just keep spraying using a heavier coat or less thinner, once the wood cant absorb anymore it will start to build up.