Claro Walnut birdseye and flame maple THINLINE

[johnnyfamous]

Originally Posted by glen smith

Could you elaborate on the f-hole problem?

i read on a thinline drawing that you are to remove some material n the rear of the cap or top before you glue it just behind the f hole,, i believe to reduce the sidewall thickness of the f hole to 1/8 as apposed to 1/4...

is this not correct?

[glen smith]

I am no reference but the f-holes I have seen were cut into a top that was 1/4" thick and no material was removed under the top to thin it at the f-hole location.

[guitar2005]

I've done 1/2" tops with the back of the top routed.

[johnnyfamous]

well perhaps it is just the 72 model.. i have only ever read it on this particular drawing..


a few updates..

awaiting my parts and finishes orders.

thinking a dream 90 in the neck and a dream 180 at the bridge-splitable.. there cheap enough to try out and replace if i dont love them.. they cant be that bad?

[glen smith]

Would you mind sending me (through my email) a copy of the plan you used?

[johnnyfamous]

glen, i cant seem to save as an attachment but here is the link to the archive,, its at the bottom under "thinlines"

https://sites.google.com/site/guitar...les/fender-ish


I personally have been using the Kirn templates and a single large scale drawing I purchased from ebay long ago before i found this great site! not sure by whom it was from.

[Telenator]

Fantastic project! I'm a bit of a walnut fan myself.

A friend of mine gave me some 100 year old black walnut a few years back and I built a highly upgraded 380L Ric style guitar with hand split maple binding and black walnut inlay.

Black walnut works really well but the dust bothered my throat a bit.

Looking forward to seeing the pogress on this project!

[glen smith]

Originally Posted by johnnyfamous

glen, i cant seem to save as an attachment but here is the link to the archive,, its at the bottom under "thinlines"

https://sites.google.com/site/guitar...les/fender-ish


I personally have been using the Kirn templates and a single large scale drawing I purchased from ebay long ago before i found this great site! not sure by whom it was from.

Thanks, I just realized I already have that file.

[Crafty Fox]

There's a picture of the underside of the Thinline 'F' hole in 'The Fender Telecaster' by AR Duchossoir (P54) showing the routing around the hole. I didn't do it on my Harlequaster. I left the top 6mm all over, but I put binding around the holes to match the edge binding.

[johnnyfamous]

Well a new issue has developed.. I should have routed out the f holes before installing the top..

Using the kirn template I would have just used a 1/4 inch flush bit.

But now,,?? I can seem to figure it out.. I have a makita trimmer and the collar on the pattern guide is too big for the f hole, it will also not be the right size if I used a guide anyway.. hope I am missing something easy?



Has anyone seen a 1/4 bearing router flush bit with the bearing mounter above the carbide??

[ievans]

You could make a slightly oversize f-hole template and then use a 1/4" straight bit with a brass bushing to cut the correct size f-hole.

You could make a 1:1 template and use a 1/4" straight bit and just have the shaft of the bit rub against the template (don't linger too long in any one spot!).

[johnnyfamous]

Originally Posted by ievans

You could make a 1:1 template and use a 1/4" straight bit and just have the shaft of the bit rub against the template (don't linger too long in any one spot!).

two days I have been stressing about this, checking all the local hardware stores for a method and nothing... so easy,, staring at me the whole time.. thanks. I will give it a go.


On another note I recieved some hardware from warmouth. Once again I recieved a bridge with black screws and not nickel as listed in the picture.. I dont get it, whats this fascination with black on gold? I am not a fan of the two.. at least be accurate in the photos u use to sell this stuff..

Perhaps I will need to keep the bridge I have and just find nickel screws and replace them, not sure where to get them...

[dazzaman]

I just cut the f-hole on my challenge build instrument. I used a 1/8" router bit in my dremel with the shank itself rubbing against the template. Worked a treat.

edit: And I also looked everywhere for a 1/4" bit with a bearing and had no luck.

[johnnyfamous]

Took a few weeks off, sent the bridge back to warmouth and waiting for the correct one. Also ordered a few pots so hoping I can get a push pull to fit..

built a quick f hole template and let the shaft of the straight cut bit ride along the template.. worked great!! I was sure sweating this one for some reason

[johnnyfamous]

well, after many attempts I finally received the bridge i was looking for

I also received the pots,, there is NO way I will be able to get those through without a rear access cover. I have been unable to find a MINI splitable pot that will work.? I have a few scraps of the top so i might just go that route... not sure which piece to use though..

[metalmayhem]

Looks really good, can't wait to see it finished.

[emoney]

I would use the piece on the top right corner.
This is going to be a really sharp guitar when you're done. As to the color application,
you could always put sealer on the lighter part before you add the color to the outside
edge. Also, it might be best to mask it and the binding if you're planning to spray. If
you're going to handrub, then you should be able to get away with just scraping back
when you're done.

[cjstcustom]

completely awesome lookin guitar, good job. the top is the best!

[spook777]

Originally Posted by johnnyfamous

I also received the pots,, there is NO way I will be able to get those through without a rear access cover.

I've done no-access panel thinlines. They're a pain, but you wire them like the Gibson ES guitars--thru the f-hole. Send a string thru the hole, and loop it around the pot(s) and output jack. Use your fingers or chopsticks or whatever to pull and push them into position. You have to do all the wiring before hand. The mini pots (dime sized) are a requirement. Quarter sized pots won't cut it. Push-pull pots won't either, unless the depth of the route is the same as the full length of the push-pull pot.

This was my first one...quite the pain. The les paul toggle was soldered first with the wires pulling from the neck pocket out to the top F-hole. A string was sent thru the hole and out to the f-hole and used to pull it thru the hole location and then the wires pulled tight, and sent out of the pickup route to the other F-hole where it was soldered to the Volume/tone pot combos. String was used on both pots and the output jack to pull thru their respective holes. There are no control plates on this thinline, only f-holes, wiring channels, and pickup routes.

[johnnyfamous]

well, took the summer off to work on my golf swing,, it didn't get better

I have rethought the pickups, spending all this money and energy on a guitar, it doesn't seem fitting to put in cheap ones.. also really dont want a rear access so i think i will step away from the push pull idea.

been drooling over these for a few months,

https://bareknucklepickups.co.uk/mai...sissippi_queen


binding is next, set up a few test bends with the maple,, easier than I was expecting!! using a torch and a pipe..