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Old January 9th, 2012, 04:45 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Hollowing Out Pickup Cavities...Help!

So I'm at the point on my builds where I can now hollow out my pickup/control cavities as well as the neck pockets. I would assume most accomplish by using a router, but I havent been able to find much information on HOW.

I'm basically looking for the simplest, most effective way to do this. What about putting a sleeve on the router, and building another (thicker...like 1/2" plywood?) Tele template with the cavities cut to fit said sleeve? Then I could theoretically clamp the template to the body and pass the router over the cavities.

Am I on the right track here? Is there a better/easier way to do this? I'm pretty afraid of messing up because my bodys are so nice right now!

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Old January 9th, 2012, 04:47 PM   #2 (permalink)
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There's plenty of info and pics on this here. Templates seem to be the norm and i'm currently working off Ron Kirns templates here:

Hmmm... Can't seem to do this on my phone. But my thread and many others have the information which you seek
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Old January 9th, 2012, 05:06 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Am I on the right track here?
I'd say you're on the wrong track.

Exactly where are you? Have you got the body shape cut out and routed? If so how did you get that done?

The normal way to do cavities is to use a template the exact size of the cavity, drill out most of the wood with a drill press loaded with a Forstner bit, then finish the cavity using a pattern bit on a router.
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Old January 9th, 2012, 06:10 PM   #4 (permalink)
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You want ball bearings on router bit shanks, preferably designed for pattern routing and laminate trimming...not sleeves.... that's 20000 RPM of spinning metal.
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Old January 10th, 2012, 11:40 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I'd say you're on the wrong track.

Exactly where are you? Have you got the body shape cut out and routed? If so how did you get that done?

The normal way to do cavities is to use a template the exact size of the cavity, drill out most of the wood with a drill press loaded with a Forstner bit, then finish the cavity using a pattern bit on a router.
Yes, the body shape is cut out and routed. I did a rough cut out of the bodies on the bandsaw, cleaned up the edges with a belt sander and then routed the edges using a roundover bit. This was on a router table, but I can use the router not in the table as well. There are some of what I was calling "sleeves" around but I believe the proper term may actually be "collette"?

Anyway, a bit with a bearing on it should work fine? That's the sort of bit I used when doing the roundover on the edges. And then I could use my original template right? It's made of 1/8" hardboard so maybe that's not thick enough?
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Old January 10th, 2012, 01:05 PM   #6 (permalink)
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There are some of what I was calling "sleeves" around but I believe the proper term may actually be "collette"?
Bushing is what you are describing. They mount in the base plate of the router and not on the shank. They could work but you would need to offset the template to accommodate the difference between the bushing and edge of the bit. Best bet is a top bearing pattern bit as mentioned above.
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Old January 10th, 2012, 02:10 PM   #7 (permalink)
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http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Sp...uter_Bits.html
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Old January 10th, 2012, 03:09 PM   #8 (permalink)
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The thin templates are considered master templates and are normally used to make a working template from 3/4 in. MDF. This thicker working template allows your initial router pass to be shallower......... ~1/2 in. with a 1 in. long pattern bit.......... less with a shorter bit.

So ......... just to be clear, you didn't use the template to get the body shape other that using it to trace the shape?
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Old January 10th, 2012, 03:33 PM   #9 (permalink)
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On this link, click the "trade secrets" icon and it will jump you to the how to.

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Old January 11th, 2012, 04:44 PM   #10 (permalink)
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The thin templates are considered master templates and are normally used to make a working template from 3/4 in. MDF. This thicker working template allows your initial router pass to be shallower......... ~1/2 in. with a 1 in. long pattern bit.......... less with a shorter bit.

So ......... just to be clear, you didn't use the template to get the body shape other that using it to trace the shape?
Ok thanks for clearing that up.

And no, I didn't use the template to get the body shape other than to trace it. I just outlined it, cut out the body on the bandsaw and then cleaned it up a little after. I compared my body to the template a couple of times a long the way to make sure my dimensions were staying true.
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Old January 11th, 2012, 04:46 PM   #11 (permalink)
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On this link, click the "trade secrets" icon and it will jump you to the how to.

DW
Thanks. I see now that this was a bit of a waste of a post...seeing that I could have just investigated it more. I was just starting to get frustrated is all...and I'm running out of time in the shop.

Thanks to everyone for their help. Much appreciated, and next time I will try to figure it out myself if I can.
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Old January 11th, 2012, 05:34 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Thanks to everyone for their help. Much appreciated, and next time I'ill try to figure it out myself if I can.
Interesting. Generally first time builders get a much more cordial reaponse to their questions here.

There's nothing wrong with what you've done so far. Many people use the trace / cut / sand method for cutting out bodies, I just did a Telemaster body that way. Usually I use a pattern and router. You can get a good result either way.

My preferred method for pickup routes is to make a pattern from MDF and use a straight router bit with a bearing on the shank to do the actual cutting. There are those who rough out the routes with a Forstner bit and route free-hand to clean them up. Those people have far better router skills than I.

Post a picture of what you've done so far...
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Old January 11th, 2012, 06:01 PM   #13 (permalink)
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So I'm at the point on my builds where I can now hollow out my pickup/control cavities as well as the neck pockets. I would assume most accomplish by using a router, but I havent been able to find much information on HOW.

Every build thread has a approach to doing this very thing... Read the contest/challenge threads at the top of the main page. They are all in one spot. You'll see the same things over and over.
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Old January 11th, 2012, 06:22 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Check out this build thread I did. It goes over making working templates from master templates, and routing. It has lots of pics and vids.

http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home...-new-toys.html
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Old January 12th, 2012, 01:59 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Check out this build thread I did. It goes over making working templates from master templates, and routing. It has lots of pics and vids.

http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home...-new-toys.html
Thanks, what a good resource
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Old January 13th, 2012, 02:43 PM   #16 (permalink)
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First off, welcome to TDPRI! Never feel uneasy about asking questions. That's why we're here.

In your position, I would lay the template on the body and see if the body is oversized or undersized anywhere. If it's still larger than the template all the way around, you should attach it and use a pattern bit to get it to the proper size...this will make placing the cavities and neck pocket much easier.

Technically, I guess it's okay to be undersized anywhere except around the neck pocket...that's going to be trouble. You may also have problems getting a pickguard to look right on an undersized body.

Let us know what you find. I'm sure we can help you through it.

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