Melody Maker build

[LC100]

Here's another option that might be useful: Microplanes. Giving serious consideration to the drum models with the follower for pattern work. Could give a RoboSander a run for its money. They are also very inexpensive compared to some tools. Here's a nice demo by Freddy G. using them to get a Tele neck in order.

[guitarbuilder]

Half round rasps and files have a flat side too...at least the ones I own :-).

[flatfive]

Originally Posted by LC100

Here's another option that might be useful: Microplanes...

Thanks. I actually used a microplane during part of the neck
shaping process. I have only a flat one, and it worked well
except for the transitions. I'd say compared to a rasp it was
smoother, took material away as quickly, and generated waste
that wasn't "dusty".

I'd like to try a rounded one for the transitions.

[flatfive]

Originally Posted by guitarbuilder

Half round rasps and files have a flat side too...at least the ones I own :-).

Sure, have a little joke at flat's expense

Guess I wasn't clear. I was trying to ask whether the rounded
shape was like a half-circle shape.

[flatfive]

Finally finished shaping the neck. For most of the work on the
transitions on I used two large dowels, one with 80 grit taped
to it; the other with 120 grit. Then I did some final sanding
with 180 and 220 grit.









In the last pic you can see the piece that was glued to the heel.

After getting things to where they about looked right I spent a
long time reading the neck with my hand to find little irregularities
in the surface. Sometimes you can feel things you can't see.

The transition to the headstock needs a bit more work to get
it perfectly symmetrical. This neck shaping business is hard
work for perfectionists!

[crazydave911]

Originally Posted by flatfive

Sure, have a little joke at flat's expense

He's just playing the straight man, naturally . Geeez I kill me

Guess I wasn't clear. I was trying to ask whether the rounded
shape was like a half-circle shape

Most are, but there are some that are just a semi-circle, 1/3 round if you will (stifles a giggle )

Originally Posted by flatfive

I'd like to see one of those small draw knives
if you can find them

Me too. I'm looking right at an 22 yr old Martin 1833 catalog that has them. They were made of surgical steel rod, had a loop bend on each end and the cutting surface was flattened in the center and honed to a razor's edge. And they weren't cheap then. If they still exist, I'll find 'em

[kwerk]

Originally Posted by crazydave911

I'm looking right at an 22 yr old Martin 1833 catalog that has them. They were made of surgical steel rod, had a loop bend on each end and the cutting surface was flattened in the center and honed to a razor's edge. And they weren't cheap then. If they still exist, I'll find 'em

No loops, but these look nice..

[adirondak5]

Good job Glenn , the neck looks great. What is your take on carving with the spoke shave and working with mahogany vs maple.

[Jimmyspaz]

These are what european luthiers use for shaping violins. Available from Lee Valley (that's where I found these).

[flatfive]

Originally Posted by adirondak5

Good job Glenn , the neck looks great. What is your take on carving with the spoke shave and working with mahogany vs maple.

I like the spoke shave a lot. It's fun to use, quiet, and
generates no dust. Fine tuning the neck shape is easy.
On the other hand, it's only making the easier part of the job
easier -- I spend a lot more time on the transitions than on
the straight part of the neck.

I'm also liking my first time with (african) mahogany. Not
as hard as maple, seems stable and easy to work. In 2012
I want to make mahogany guitars with set necks and angled
headstocks!

How do you like mahogany, Herb? You must have used it
a lot more than me.

[flatfive]

Originally Posted by kwerk

No loops, but these look nice..

Originally Posted by Jimmyspaz

These are what european luthiers use for shaping violins. Available from Lee Valley (that's where I found these).

Thanks for the pointers! It would be cool to see some videos
of these kinds of tools being used for shaping neck transitions.

[flatfive]

I'm using vintage, 3-on-a-strip tuners, like on my old Melody Maker.



The tuner shafts are 1/4" and the bushings are 11/32".
You can drill just the 11/32" holes, but I decided to drill both
diameters to make things, like, totally stable.

Two difficulties!

1. The tuners are on a strip, so the hole locations have to be
right on the money.

2. Drilling concentric holes -- it's really hard to cleanly drill
out a larger hole in a slightly smaller hole if you use a regular
drill bit.

I started by drawing a little plan. (Didn't remember to take
a pic until after I'd used it...)



What's the easiest way to draw a scale plan for these kinds
of purposes? Isn't there a way to do this without fancy CAD
software?

Taped the plan onto a scrap of maple and drilled 17/64" holes.
The extra 1/64" gives some wiggle room.



I used a fence on the drill press. This helps to get the holes
perfectly aligned, and means you only have to sight and
adjust along one direction before drilling.

To test this drilling jig I used it to drill three holes on another
scrap of maple.

Then each of these holes were enlarged with a step bit, and then
drilled about half-way through with a 11/32" bit.
Here's the step bit along with the others:



Here's the test piece after being drilled for the bushings:



Everything fits:



I didn't push the bushings into the scrap maple for fear
of never getting them out!

Okay, so then the maple jig was double-sided taped to the
headstock, and the process repeated. It worked out okay.



Also did the little job of transitioning the roundover on the
horn.



(The dark stuff is naptha in the process of evaporating.
I occasionally wiped it on to get a better idea of my sanding progress.)

[adirondak5]

Originally Posted by flatfive

I like the spoke shave a lot. It's fun to use, quiet, and
generates no dust. Fine tuning the neck shape is easy.
On the other hand, it's only making the easier part of the job
easier -- I spend a lot more time on the transitions than on
the straight part of the neck.

I'm also liking my first time with (african) mahogany. Not
as hard as maple, seems stable and easy to work. In 2012
I want to make mahogany guitars with set necks and angled
headstocks!

How do you like mahogany, Herb? You must have used it
a lot more than me.

Yea , the transitions are a little tougher than the shaft , I spend a lot of time on them also. I am also thinking of an all mahogany build in the future. The only mahogany I have ever worked with is my "build for me" guitar which is waiting for spraying weather. I like the way mahogany looks , machines , sands , I like it a lot.

Edit : Glenn , I didn't see the pics of your tuner drilling earlier today , the pics wouldn't show on my not so " Smart " phone , but now that I do see them , great job , they look like the tuners I ordered from Stewmac the other day .

[flatfive]

Still plugging along -- trying not to rush. In the past I think
I've rushed through some steps when I should've have
double-checked everything having to do with the eventual
playability of the guitar.

The build takes a few months -- hopefully the guitar will
be played for many years.

While writing the previous post I noticed that I hadn't
shaped the transition behind the headstock like it is on
the Melody Maker.



Tools for the small reshaping job:



Finished, except maybe for a final few tweaks:



Okay, getting ready for fret installation. Checked to make sure
the fret slots were deep enough.



A few were borderline, so I carefully deepened them,
making sure not to enlarge the width of the slots!

Forgot to mention that, before doing this, I also double-checked
the flatness of the fretboard; it needed a couple of little tweaks.

Filed the top of the fret slots lightly with a triangular file.



I think it was guitarbuilder who recommended this as a way to
ensure the fret can seat well, and also to help avoid chipping if
the frets need to be pulled.

Wiped the fret wire with naptha (surprising what you see on the
rag afterward), and radiused it.



The cheapskate in me didn't like that I needed 3 pieces of fret
wire for this 22-fret neck; with a 21-fret tele neck I can squeak
by with 2 pieces.

Ready to go!



Half-way through the hammering:



Passing the paper test fine so far.



Clipped the frets ends; looking down the neck the frets look
very uniform, and they're all seated well.



I am happy. (Or maybe we're supposed to use smilies to say that?)

[Mojotron]

I think that's the coolest part of a neck build - getting that last fret in and trimming the ends - at that point it really starts to all move downhill and just the easy stuff is left. That's a great looking neck!

[guitarbuilder]

I think it was guitarbuilder who recommended this as a way to
ensure the fret can seat well, and also to help avoid chipping if
the frets need to be pulled.

Yep, it was me, but the original idea was somebody elses from most likely the net...maybe Frank Ford??? I don't have that many original ideas...LOL.

That's a cool and inexpensive bender there....

[adirondak5]

Nice fret install Glenn , I have the fret caul for pressing in the frets but my last two necks I hammered in the frets , I think I like that method a bit more than pressing .
You are becoming quite the craftsman , that neck looks great.

[crazydave911]

Originally Posted by adirondak5

that neck looks great.

A big hubba hubba to that!

[flatfive]

Guys, thanks for the nice feedback.

Originally Posted by Mojotron

I think that's the coolest part of a neck build - getting that last fret in and trimming the ends - at that point it really starts to all move downhill and just the easy stuff is left...

Hey Mojo. Yeah, it's good to feel that the riskier/harder parts are
behind me.

Originally Posted by guitarbuilder

I don't have that many original ideas...LOL.

You've got enough of them.

Originally Posted by guitarbuilder

That's a cool and inexpensive bender there....

It's a ripoff of others I've seen here; sorry I don't remember who
I stole from.

The height of the middle wheel is adjustable via a wing nut on
the back. Having used this bender a while I don't think the two
lower wheels even have to be wheels -- I think they just have
to have a smooth surface and a slot to keep the fret wire in line.

Originally Posted by adirondak5

Nice fret install Glenn , I have the fret caul for pressing in the frets but my last two necks I hammered in the frets , I think I like that method a bit more than pressing...

Well, I like that hammering them in is a cheap way to do it.
Why do you prefer hammering to using a caul?

I've seen the debates here on the details of fretting
methods and techniques, but from my limited experience
it seems the fret slots are the important thing. If they're
clean and of the right depth and width, how can you go
wrong in hammering in a fret -- unless you use excessive
force?

Originally Posted by crazydave911

A big hubba hubba to that!

I'm sure I don't understand what that means.

[adirondak5]

Originally Posted by flatfive

Well, I like that hammering them in is a cheap way to do it.
Why do you prefer hammering to using a caul?

Just my preference I guess , I can see the frets go in with out having to pick the neck up , see if there is a high spot , give it another tap , it just seems my fret jobs go faster with less issues when I use the hammer , besides , can't you do everything with a hammer ? .:D