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| Tele Home Depot Building a T-Style guitar? From scratch or from parts. This is the forum for you. |
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#21 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
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That's as far as I can go on the body at the moment.
On to the neck portion of this exercise. Got some more curly maple left after my P Bass build. Using a fine tooth handsaw, I cut the scarf. After cleaning the joint up with a hand plane, it's on to glue and clamps. That'll sit at least over night. More to come.
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Mike The only thing necessary for evil to thrive is for good men to do nothing. |
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#23 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
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It's been raining for the last two and a half days. Since i work outside, I haven't been able to do much. Today i got a break in the weather.
I took the neck out of the clamps. The scarf joint slipped a little( as usual), so I need to clean that up and make certain the face of the neck blank is flat and level. A good hand plane makes short work of this. Once i got that taken care of, I drew out the neck and headstock on the blank.
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Mike The only thing necessary for evil to thrive is for good men to do nothing. |
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#24 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
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After cutting this out with the jig saw, i attached the neck template with double stick tape.
And here it is routed to the template. And with the truss rod routed and installed.
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Mike The only thing necessary for evil to thrive is for good men to do nothing. |
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#25 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
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Moving on to the fretboard. It is Indian Rosewood. i really like the grain and look of this board.
I finally got a decent fret saw. Bought the StewMaw Japanese one. I highly recommend this saw. I use it with a cheap plastic mitre box I have laying around. It does the job just fine. After I finish cutting the slots, it's on to glue and clamps. That, too, will sit at least overnight. Thanks for looking. More to come.
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Mike The only thing necessary for evil to thrive is for good men to do nothing. |
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#26 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Nashua, NH
Posts: 1,022
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I love seeing stuff made using normal hand tools. Enjoying your story.
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"I'm clinging to the notion that I might accidentally produce a really good playing/sounding guitar" Kansascaster |
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#32 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
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Been a while, but I'm back.
Got the fretboard out of clamps and trimmed to the neck blank. Next up is to radius the fretboard. Radius is 12". I use the 1"x4" boards on either side of the radius block to keep the block centered on the board. Same way I cut a truss rod slot. And, radius complete. After radiusing the board, I place some tape down the center, and crossways at the 12th. (Note: Although this pic does not show it, I put a strip of tape crossways at the 22nd fret as well.) Then i mark my fret marker positions, and drill them out.
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Mike The only thing necessary for evil to thrive is for good men to do nothing. |
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#38 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
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And here are the markers installed.
I went with pau abalone this time. I've been doing a lot of wood position markers, and will again. I like doing that quite a bit. But this time I thought the abalone would be a nice change of pace. And here with the frets installed. After which, it's time to start the neck carving. I begin by thicknessing the neck.
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Mike The only thing necessary for evil to thrive is for good men to do nothing. |
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#39 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
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And, carrying on.
And i got really close to being done, when this happened. This neck is toast. I hate when that happens. Time to pull out my clothes iron and some aluminum foil... ...and pull the fretboard and truss rod. Fortunately I have another neck blank laying around.
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Mike The only thing necessary for evil to thrive is for good men to do nothing. |
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#40 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
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O.K., so I cut another scarf joint, trimmed a new neck blank and routed it to the neck template Like I did earlier. I did not take any pics of this process, as it's the same as the first time around.
What is different is that, instead of having an oversized fretboard blank that I will later have to trim to the neck blank, this time around I have one that is already sized to fit the neck. So I don't have any leeway for positioning the fretboard. I can't afford for it to slip or drift sideways when clamping. I need to make certain it sits still in the clamps. To that end, I clamp the fretboard down onto the bench on either side of the first fret. This is so that the fretboard will not crack or break when I take the fret pulling pliers to the first fret, and remove it, like this. A process I repeat at the 15th fret. After which, I drill a small hole through the fret position at both frets.
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Mike The only thing necessary for evil to thrive is for good men to do nothing. |
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