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Tele Home Depot Building a T-Style guitar? From scratch or from parts. This is the forum for you.

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Old August 11th, 2011, 06:19 PM   #1 (permalink)
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string through ferrule drill bit question

I ground down a stepped bit in order to make something like the ones in this thread:

http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home...il-yarron.html


And after a lot of grinding I ended up with this:





You can't see the sizes in the second pic, but after grinding off the first steps it now starts at 5/16 and steps to 3/8 and 7/16. I'm doing some practice holes, but not getting good results, either the hole is two large and it sits flush but loose, or sits just proud of the hole, but tight. Is it the GFS ferrules I'm using or a problem with the bit?

Do folks have preferences for whether it's flush or proud, and do most people finish the guitar before drilling/installing the ferrules? or drill the holes, then finish, then install? Or drill, install, finish, scrape em out?


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Old August 11th, 2011, 06:31 PM   #2 (permalink)
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You could save yourself a lot of trouble by buying the flush fit ferrules from StewMac. Using a 3/8 in. brad point bit, you drill a hole 3/8 in. deep. Bingo, your ferrules are flush with the surface.

......

.....or drill a little deeper if you want them recessed.

......

Drill .......... finish .......... install.
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Old August 11th, 2011, 06:40 PM   #3 (permalink)
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That's funny cause I ordered just that set last night. But I got a set of the 5/16th ones too. I have a Fender where the ferrules are proud of the body, and a Ron Kirn where they are flush. Not sure if I have a preference.

I saw your thread on drilling and using a ball grinder to bevel the edges. I think I'll scrap the stepped bit and use that technique instead. So that makes Jack Wells 2-for-2 in the technique department. It took me 3 tries to get a neck pocket template right until I used your method.
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Old August 11th, 2011, 08:49 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I'm doing some practice holes, but not getting good results, either the hole is two large and it sits flush but loose, or sits just proud of the hole, but tight. Is it the GFS ferrules I'm using or a problem with the bit?

As recommended in the other thread, why not grind a thin leading tip on the step drill? I'd imagine it can only help with centering the drill and getting more consistent results? Mine is like that and works perfect.

I do use a step drill cut more like yours, without a leading tip, for the larger diameter bass ferrules but I pre-drill them with a regular spiral bit of the same diameter and only use the step drill to add the step for the lip. It's a little bit more fiddly but it works well for me also.
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Old August 12th, 2011, 11:50 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I drilled the larger hole first and then used the the pilot from the larger hole to center the smaller hole. That seemed to work alright.
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Old August 12th, 2011, 12:01 PM   #6 (permalink)
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+1 on the practice holes.

If I read the post from Mr. Yaron correctly he had a special tool ground. The thing to remember is that mass produced step drills are made for the convenience of tin'knockers making clearance holes for pop rivets and screws so they are not apt to be accurately sized to high precision. It'll be largely a matter of dumb luck to get one where the hole size is less tahn .005" larger than the ferule size.

I would recommend doing test bores to find a brad point drill that gives you a good fit, then using the Jack Wells pin indexing method,
http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home...holes-%2A.html
Drill the counterbore first, then the through hole, trying to drill the counterbore after the through hole runs a high chance of splitting the wood.
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Old August 12th, 2011, 12:07 PM   #7 (permalink)
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My step drill goes 1/4 to 5/16 to 3/8 to 7/16. I set the drill so that it goes down about 3/32" deep with the 3/8 portion. I then will go in with a 5/16" straight bit to make the 5/16" part a little deeper, as the bit follows the partially drilled 5/16". You have to center it carefully, but it works. I don't countersink anything.
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Old August 12th, 2011, 12:44 PM   #8 (permalink)
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For those "lurking" trying to figure out how to do this with a Pop tab and a a rusty nail....

Do it ONLY with a router, setup to do the task.. or a drill press, set it at it's fastest speed... If you're trying to do it with a hand drill, Step away from the wood......

Drill the largest hole first, followed by the next, then followed by the string through hole... Use only Forstner or brad point bits...

Ya might wanna do a "search" we did a thread about this several years ago.

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Old August 12th, 2011, 01:16 PM   #9 (permalink)
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If you're trying to do it with a hand drill, Step away from the wood......


I can testify to the resulting horror. I attempted this back when I was a very green noob, and I still haven't quite gotten over it.
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Old August 14th, 2011, 05:27 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronkirn View Post
For those "lurking" trying to figure out how to do this with a Pop tab and a a rusty nail....

Do it ONLY with a router, setup to do the task.. or a drill press, set it at it's fastest speed... If you're trying to do it with a hand drill, Step away from the wood......

Drill the largest hole first, followed by the next, then followed by the string through hole... Use only Forstner or brad point bits...

Ya might wanna do a "search" we did a thread about this several years ago.

Ron
I have searched, masters, but I cannot find this thread you speak of. Might you provide a link?
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Old August 14th, 2011, 05:43 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I have searched, masters, but I cannot find this thread you speak of. Might you provide a link?
This isn't what Mr. Kirn was talking about, but it is pretty much the same technique. It has just been optimized for my cheap tools.

Click right here young Master.
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Old August 14th, 2011, 05:45 PM   #12 (permalink)
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This isn't the thread you're looking for but here's the way I drill the holes for the StewMac flush ferrules I mentioned above.

* Drilling String Through Holes *
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Old August 14th, 2011, 05:55 PM   #13 (permalink)
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My bad .......... posted reply to another thread by mistake.
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Old August 15th, 2011, 12:44 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I did some today.



This should take you there.

Enjoy!
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Old August 15th, 2011, 02:01 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Buckocaster51 View Post
I did some today.



This should take you there.

Enjoy!
That's what I'm lookin' for, good sir!

I made an auxiliary table with a 1/8" dowel this afternoon to use this technique. I think my issue may be with the GFS ferrules I bought and my bit sizes.

They measure .326" diameter at the midsection, and .394" for diameter of the top section. The midsection pushed in nice and tight with a 5/16 (.312") drill bit, but I don't have any bits (forstner or otherwise) that match up with .394. 25/64"??? What are your two bit sizes and which ferrules do you buy?
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Old August 15th, 2011, 02:06 AM   #16 (permalink)
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So that makes Jack Wells 2-for-2 in the technique department. It took me 3 tries to get a neck pocket template right until I used your method.
Where might I find Jack's method? I know its posted somewhere in this forum...
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Old August 15th, 2011, 02:11 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Where might I find Jack's method? I know its posted somewhere in this forum...
Here:

http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home...h-holes-*.html

It's the same technique as Bucko's, but he uses the #0196 ferrules instead of the #0173's, which have the extra lip and require an additional bit / drill hole.
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Old August 15th, 2011, 02:34 AM   #18 (permalink)
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That's what I'm lookin' for, good sir!

I made an auxiliary table with a 1/8" dowel this afternoon to use this technique. I think my issue may be with the GFS ferrules I bought and my bit sizes.

They measure .326" diameter at the midsection, and .394" for diameter of the top section. The midsection pushed in nice and tight with a 5/16 (.312") drill bit, but I don't have any bits (forstner or otherwise) that match up with .394. 25/64"??? What are your two bit sizes and which ferrules do you buy?
0.394" is 10 mm for all practical purposes.

0.312 is basically 8 mm

Are the GFS ferrules metric?

I think I used 5 steenths and 3/8"

My ferrules are Fender brand.

I have been getting most of my stuff from Darren Riley and have been very pleased.
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Old August 15th, 2011, 10:09 AM   #19 (permalink)
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0.394" is 10 mm for all practical purposes.

0.312 is basically 8 mm

Are the GFS ferrules metric?

I think I used 5 steenths and 3/8"

My ferrules are Fender brand.

I have been getting most of my stuff from Darren Riley and have been very pleased.
Oh right, metric.

Darren Riley's site is pretty cool. Good prices on pickups. How fast is the shipping?
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Old August 15th, 2011, 10:39 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Oh right, metric.

Darren Riley's site is pretty cool. Good prices on pickups. How fast is the shipping?
My experience is that if it is on his website he has it.

I usually have stuff in two days.

Nothing but good experiences so far.
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