Another paisley build

[robt57]

Originally Posted by adirondak5

Did you say new tools ?

Yep. to finance the move, I sold off my big shop tools, my Mint 1970 Priceton & Mint 73 Band Master Reverb Head with a 68 Drip Edge 212 Cab, Delta Blues 115, Champ 600 worked, 1993 Pro Tube Super 410, And worst of all, my early 60s Supro 16T. But admittedly all at great offers I could not refuse thanks to tax season 2011 for folks I am guessing... .

But when the house closes up in TN on the 28th, I am, replenishing the tools, err if I have a place to put them... Already have too many amps. ;O but fresh outta Fenders at this point...

I have to go cry in my cornflakes now....

No really, so worth it, and super excited to be here instead of the south.

[robt57]

Originally Posted by adirondak5

.....

You made me go to the storage unit this morning and get my necks, some tools inc router, the box with all the bodies and parts, and my pickups box.


Your fault. ;)

[adirondak5]

Originally Posted by robt57

You made me go to the storage unit this morning and get my necks, some tools inc router, the box with all the bodies and parts, and my pickups box.

Your fault. ;)

Sounds like you got the bug , the only cure is to build :)

[JPTannercaster]

Make sure you have the right airbrush hose to fit that Badger gun. From what I've seen, read, heard and now know, Badger and Thayer & Chandler airbrushes use the same size fitting to connect the hose to the gun. The standard Iwata hose that you will find at most hobby shops will not work on Badger guns. (I have the Badger 100LG and 100G) Customer service at Badger would not disclose the actual fitting size to me which kinda ticked me off a bit. Badger and T&C use a smaller fitting than Iwata and I looked everywhere around houston and the surrounding areas to find an adapter, and came up empty handed. I had an Iwata hose and didn't want to buy another hose. You can find adapters online but I needed one asap. I ended borrowing a T&C hose from one of my uncles old airbrushes and it worked perfect. You shouldn't have any problems out of that Badger gun though, and especially for getting it "on the house" why complain. Just practice on some scrap wood a bit. Especially your start and stop techniques, never start or stop flowing paint on the surface your painting or it will stick out like a terd in a punchbowl. You seem pretty meticulous in your work so I think you can nail it pretty quickly. It's still looking really good. Keep it up.

[adirondak5]

Originally Posted by JPTannercaster

Make sure you have the right airbrush hose to fit that Badger gun. From what I've seen, read, heard and now know, Badger and Thayer & Chandler airbrushes use the same size fitting to connect the hose to the gun. The standard Iwata hose that you will find at most hobby shops will not work on Badger guns. (I have the Badger 100LG and 100G) Customer service at Badger would not disclose the actual fitting size to me which kinda ticked me off a bit. Badger and T&C use a smaller fitting than Iwata and I looked everywhere around houston and the surrounding areas to find an adapter, and came up empty handed. I had an Iwata hose and didn't want to buy another hose. You can find adapters online but I needed one asap. I ended borrowing a T&C hose from one of my uncles old airbrushes and it worked perfect. You shouldn't have any problems out of that Badger gun though, and especially for getting it "on the house" why complain. Just practice on some scrap wood a bit. Especially your start and stop techniques, never start or stop flowing paint on the surface your painting or it will stick out like a terd in a punchbowl. You seem pretty meticulous in your work so I think you can nail it pretty quickly. It's still looking really good. Keep it up.

Thanks JP , the 150 I got from my buddy does have the air hose with it , also 3 needles/nozzles , so I should be good to go , just need to experiment with the nozzle sizes and technique to see what will work best for me . I have a few glued up yellow pine practice bodies to try it out on , hopefully this coming weekend.


Just got home from work , here's a pic of the Badger 150 , nice little case it came in , nozzles , cup , bottles , hose , all there .

[adirondak5]

It's to hot and humid to do anything outside except maybe frying eggs on the walkway , so I figured I would mix up some seafoam for the sides and the burst , started off with 10 oz Seagrave Clear , 4 oz Seagrave thinner , I usually only thin down the Seagrave with a 25% thinner to lacquer ratio but this is going through an airbrush so I went with a bit more thinner , next I got out the Mixol , started with oxide white #25 , since I want this to be an opaque color I went with 80 drops , next I mixed in 9 drops of #13 grass green , then 8 drops of # 12 fir green and finally 4 drops of #9 blue. Looks pretty good to my eye.

After 80 drops of white



not quite there yet , another drop or two of #12 fir green




this is what I want



put 2 oz in the preval just to test out the opaqueness on a small test piece of the fabric , after about 4 coats , this will work



I have about 12 oz left , that should get the sides and the burst , if not I have the recipe written down and can always mix more up .



Here's my Seafoam tele , I used Ohio valley Nitro for the color , and my sample piece , pretty good color match

[robt57]

;)

[studysession]

I like it how it is before the burst...

[adirondak5]

Originally Posted by robt57

;)

:) , (:

Thanks Robert .

[adirondak5]

Originally Posted by studysession

I like it how it is before the burst...

I do like it now , but I think I'll like it more with the burst ,as long as I can get it right .

[crazydave911]

Sweet green there Herb

[melomanarock]

That is, hands down, my favorite fender colour..

[adirondak5]

Originally Posted by crazydave911

Sweet green there Herb

Thanks Dave , first time I mixed up a solid color , not to hard to get a match or to get what you want , just a drop at a time until its where you want it.

Originally Posted by melomanarock

That is, hands down, my favorite fender colour..

Hey melomanarock , I think it may be my all time favorite also .

[adirondak5]

It is pretty soupy outside today so no bursting for me , I have not decided if I am going to use a trim ring on the neck pup or go with a clear pickguard and just burst around the neck pup , so off to Home Depot this morn , picked up some Lexan and made a clear pg


double side taped to my template , cut out on the bandsaw




routed with a 3/8 flush trim bit , forgot to take pics of this , then routed the beveled edge with a 45 degree bevel bit





then I counter sunk the screw holes with a countersink on the drill press



I'll keep the plastic wrap on until ready to use



I'll wait until I done with the finish to decide whether to use the trim ring or the pg

[JPTannercaster]

I'd leave the chrome pickup ring off and do the sunburst around the pickup hole. I like the look of being able to see as much of the paisley pattern as possible. Plus the burst around it kind of ties the whole theme together. The chrome ring may disrupt the look and take away from overall finished product. Just my opinion though, and you know what they say about opinions...... I like the color you've got mixed up, it should look outstanding once you get it on the edges.

[adirondak5]

Originally Posted by JPTannercaster

I'd leave the chrome pickup ring off and do the sunburst around the pickup hole. I like the look of being able to see as much of the paisley pattern as possible. Plus the burst around it kind of ties the whole theme together. The chrome ring may disrupt the look and take away from overall finished product. Just my opinion though, and you know what they say about opinions...... I like the color you've got mixed up, it should look outstanding once you get it on the edges.

Thanks JP , I'm kinda leaning towards the pickguard with a small burst around the neck pup , probably why I made that pg this morning , the subconscious probably has his mind made up already .

I got out an old laminated pine body that I screwed up the finish on a while ago , one of these days I'll strip it down and do something with it , but for now it'll be a good test bed for a little bursting practice with the airbrush , after playing with the airbrush a bit lets try it on this body and see what I can mess up.

I used a bit of the seafoam I mixed yesterday , the colors don't match on this body but this is just a test to try and get a technique for bursting .

After 3 coats with the airbrush , I am really just concentrating on the outer edge , keeping the airbrush about 10" away from the body , you can still see through the seafoam , it's going to need a few more coats .



After another 3 coats me thinks I like



I think I should be a little thinner up around the neck but I think it should work good when I get to the actual paisley body , for as humid as it is outside I am very surprised I did not get any blushing .

I got about 4 coats on the sides also with a 2 oz bottle so the seafoam I have left should be plenty for what I need to do. Hopefully we'll get a decent day this week and I can start on the paisley body.

[Jack Wells]

Smart idea to use Lexan for the pickguard. I cracked several pickguards trying to cut them out of the cheaper acrylic sheets.

[adirondak5]

Originally Posted by Jack Wells

Smart idea to use Lexan for the pickguard. I cracked several pickguards trying to cut them out of the cheaper acrylic sheets.

The Lexan machines so much better than the cheaper acrylic , and the small sheet is only $3.49 I think , a bargain compared to what clear pickguard go for.

[robt57]

Originally Posted by adirondak5

The Lexan machines so much better than the cheaper acrylic , and the small sheet is only $3.49 I think , a bargain compared to what clear pickguard go for.

Yes, used lexan on a few with paper backing for some styling. Very router friendly as compared to the cheap stuff. Scratches just as easily though. ;)

Even made a few control cavity covers as well, this pic show both on this 99 US Standard.

[mgdesigns]

There actually is available Lexan AR (Abrasion Resistant). Not sure if McMaster.com has it, but I've used it on ergonomic tooling and it does not scratch easily.