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| Tele Home Depot Building a T-Style guitar? From scratch or from parts. This is the forum for you. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Ohio
Age: 37
Posts: 2,703
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which file to use to enlarge pickup rout on a pickguard?
I have a couple spare standard tele pickguards laying around and wanted to enlarge the neck pickup route on one of them to fit a humbucker.
What's the best type of file to use for this? I need something I can pick up at the local mom & pop hardware store... |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Tele-Holic
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Paradise
Age: 47
Posts: 516
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I have on-hand already, but could not do without, for this job.
Heavy duty kitchen scissors (bone scissors), for first cut, measure twice ! Pack of emery boards/nail files - great sandpaper on there, a neat sanding tool Round file Flat file All my supplies are local hardware chain and grocery store.
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Teles/Strats/LesPaul/Rivera/Engl Band: http://www.facebook.com/pages/ROCKET...C/191528640762 |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
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if you just buy a file, you'll be there a long time!
Try a handheld coping saw. They're usually under ten bucks. This'll get you close, then buy one of the half round files with not too aggressive of a cut. The round side will get you the rounded corners and the flat side... well, the flat sides. You may not find anything small enough on the round side, at that point, pick up a flat file and a round or rat tail file for the corners and rounds. It's basically plastic, and should file much like wood or other plastics. Nothing special required.
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John F. TDPRI # 1764 Please check out the Fredericksburg Blues Society or, if you're really bored, A year in Guitar |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Doctor of Teleocity
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I found scraping the edge with a good pocket knife to be more effective than filing
But there are times when a file works: a small tapered half-round. And fine wet'n'dry to finish (you can wrap this around the file). Other things Swiss files / carding files / riffler files. The Dremel.
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There's two kinds of people, those that hear the music and those that don't. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Glen Head, NY
Posts: 2,525
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You could try a handle meant for jigsaw blades. I have one that will hold small jigsaw blades as well as big sawzall blades for all kinds of jobs. Otherwise a coping saw is the best bet to cut the hole before you file it smooth.
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"Why don't you just make 10 louder, and make 10 be the top number, and make that a little louder?" |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Ohio
Age: 37
Posts: 2,703
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How the heck would I get a coping saw like this into an existing pickup route on a pickguard to enlarge it?
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...Coping_saw.jpg I'd imagine that a coping saw, or even a large pair of kitchen scissors would be real hard to get into a tele neck pickup hole to enlarge it. |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Friend of Leo's
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 3,904
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Quote:
The best thing about a coping saw is that generally you can orient the blade to face whichever direction you need it to by simply slackening off the handle and turning the blade. This allows you to always have your handle orientated the same way if necessary(particularly useful for something like a pickguard which only allows limited manoueverability). A simple but very useful concept.
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Phil I'm full of dust and guitars - Syd Barrett |
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#9 (permalink) | ||
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Friend of Leo's
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Quote:
Quote:
This is the way people been cuttin' weird, non-round holes for a loooong time. Same concept as a scroll saw.
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John F. TDPRI # 1764 Please check out the Fredericksburg Blues Society or, if you're really bored, A year in Guitar |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Doctor of Teleocity
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Quote:
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There's two kinds of people, those that hear the music and those that don't. |
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#12 (permalink) |
![]() Doctor of Teleocity
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First, tape off the area you want to cut and use the tape as a guide. Then, take a utility knife blade and scrape. Pickguard plastic scrapes very easily and if you're caerful, you'll have a perfect slot when you're done.
It is very important to change the angle of the blade as you go. Scraping in one direction using only one angle will take any small divots and make them bigger. Swing the blade left, then right, then flipn the guard over and scrape from the other side. It goes a lot faster than you think. |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 3,904
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Given that you wanna go from a standard size neck pu hole to a bucker, you could be scraping or filing for a long time. Another option would be to mark out your bucker area and drill out the remainder. Leave enough to clean up with a file. In theory you should be able to get your corners perfect with this method if you select the right drill bit, then simple straight line cleanups after that. You could then even cut from corner to corner with a craft knife if necessary.
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Phil I'm full of dust and guitars - Syd Barrett |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Rocky Hill, CT
Posts: 4,951
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Mark your outline, drill at your corners, use the coping saw, or even a hacksaw, to make cutlines in the waste area roughly parallell to the finish lines from the existing rout to your drilled corners and from corner to corner, and then do the finish with the utility knife as Telenator described.
Making curved cuts with a coping saw accurately takes a bit of practice, and quite a bit of waste stock to practice on, more than I imagine the OP has on hand at the moment. I think learning the art of the coping saw is valuable, but I don't think the OP quite wants to learn it on this PG today. When using a coping saw it is helpful to have a work rest which is just a plank with a v-notch leading to a kinda sorta rounded point just little bigger than the sawblade is deep which is clamped down to the bench, table, or sawhorse; the workpiece can then be lain on this plank, with the blade set to cut on the downstroke, this way the workpiece won't flex so much on the cut. If you are just doing straight cuts an ordinary vise can by used, the jaws set so that the blade can run between them without making contact, the piece resting on the flats on top of the jaws. |
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#16 (permalink) | |
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Friend of Leo's
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Ohio
Age: 37
Posts: 2,703
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Quote:
thanks! J. |
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#18 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Rocky Hill, CT
Posts: 4,951
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I will defer to Telenator on this, scraping versus going to Home Despot to buy a coping saw, I can easily see the advantage of scraping for a little while while watching a Sunday movie.
I would bow in Telenator's general direction if I knew which direction that is. As I am in a swivel chair located roughly in the middle or the state...... |
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#19 (permalink) |
![]() Doctor of Teleocity
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LOL! That's pretty funny!
Scraping is one of those things that at first sounds kinda crude and imprecise, but it's a skill everyone should develop. Anyone who has ever made a perfect 5 ply pickguard with a beveled edge knows the value of scraping. Not to mention carving maple tops and a multitude of other applications. Scrape away! |
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#20 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 3,904
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Well, me, I'd scrape to finish it off, but to go from a standard neck pu aperture to a humbucker aperture I'd be looking for something less precise to get me closer to the mark first. I'd definitely maintain that drilling out the corners is gonna give a much more clean result. But each to their own I guess.
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Phil I'm full of dust and guitars - Syd Barrett |
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