Crap, Ruined 2 necks. Need advice

[GregB]

Yesterday and today I destroyed 2 necks the same way. As I was rounding the end of the neck around the 22 fret area the router bit tore out the end grain.

I tried cutting as close as I dare to the template with a bandsaw so I wouldn't be routing much material. I tried climb cutting. The darn thing jut bit and bit hard.

I think I'm going to go get a new router bit tomorrow. This one may be dull.

The maple is really good, hard maple. I could feel it was hard when I was bandsawing it. It certainly didn't cut like it was mushy.

What the heck am I doing wrong? I don't want to keep screwing up necks. The wood is cheap but my time isn't. I'm almost at the point where I'll leave that part unrouted and sand it to the line.

[guitar2005]

When doing the round corners, cut them as close as possible on the bandsaw and then route them slowly, but not too slow as to burn the maple. After the bandsaw, as an extra precautionary measure, sand down as close as possible to the line so that the router takes as little material off as possible.

Another thing to do is route the neck taper and heel 1/4" in height as a time. That seems to work for me.

If you do get tearout, most of the time, its just a wood crack that can ge glued back. If not, in the past, I've epoxied them with wood dust.

As for climb cutting - I highly recommend AGAINST doing that. Its very dangerous and you never know if/when the router will pull the piece on you. Better safe than sorry.

[jkingma]

On your next one cut as close to the line as you can and just sand to the line in that spot. Keep it away from the router altogether.

[Shepherd]

Don't usually have that problem. Is the grain running vertical or horizontal? That would make a big difference. I usually sand it as close to the as I can get with a robosander or spindle sander so I end up just barely shaving the wood. A sharp bit is a must with hard maple too.

[GregB]

I have considered getting a robosander. These 2 necks may have talked me into getting one.

[Colt W. Knight]

I only route straight edges on a neck.


Corners and contours are done on the spindle/belt sander.

[guitar2005]

Originally Posted by GregB

I have considered getting a robosander. These 2 necks may have talked me into getting one.

I now do all my headstocks on the Rigid sander. I never thought how much I would use it.

For the neck heel corners, the sander allows you to get real close and let the route take off a minimal amount.

[adirondak5]

Originally Posted by GregB

I have considered getting a robosander. These 2 necks may have talked me into getting one.

Sorry to hear about the ruined necks Greg , a robo sander is a good choice for the neck heel and contours and a way to avoid tear out , a better option IMO is the Ridgid Spindle Belt Sander or R.O.S.S. , you can easily do the contours and heel with the spindle and you can also do a large part of the shaping of the back with the belt , either way sand as close to line as possible , I usually am only routing off less than a 16th when I route a neck , and only a 1/4" in depth at a time, and the heel and tip of the head stock I finish up with the R.O.S.S.

[melomanarock]

After the bandsaw always sand as close to the line as posible.. you should leave less than 0,5 mm for routing. Also keep router bits sharp and set the router to the highest speed..

[TheNewSteveH]

I got a strange question. Has anyone here tried a 4-flute end mill in a drill press? The reason I ask is that I used one to waste some material, and it was much friendlier and less jumpy than a router, and it was a lot faster than sanding. I was able to hold the guitar body by hand and move it around under the spindle. It didn't grab or throw me any surprises. Of course, it cuts slower than a router, but sometimes that's an advantage.

Maybe it could fill the gap between routers and sanders.

I may slap a jig together tomorrow and see how hard it is to "mill" a straight line.

[Colt W. Knight]

Most drill presses are not designed for sideways pressure.

I just cut mine nice and close with the bandsaw, and smooth it up with either my router or ROSS.

[Mojotron]

Originally Posted by Shepherd

Don't usually have that problem. Is the grain running vertical or horizontal? That would make a big difference. I usually sand it as close to the as I can get with a robosander or spindle sander so I end up just barely shaving the wood. A sharp bit is a must with hard maple too.

+1 Me too. I've generally found that a sharpened bit actually cuts better than a new one. You can get a pattern bit sharpened many times before the radius of the cut is different than the radius of the bearing. And, a bit that is not sharp will always tearout.

A ROSS works great too - I got some finer grit drums liners to use for shaping to the line though: Those 80gt liners take a lot off really fast.

[TheNewSteveH]

Originally Posted by Colt W. Knight

Most drill presses are not designed for sideways pressure.

Depends on the amount of pressure. Many people use sanding drums with drill presses. An end mill removing small amounts of wood is easier on the drill press than a sanding drum. Metal is another story, though.

I wouldn't try to use it to make a body, but for trimming little things, the sideways pressure is no problem.

[Bolide]

To TheNewSteveH

What did I say?
The siren song of the jig-boring machine is calling you
Resistance is futile

[TheNewSteveH]

I will not listen. I am pulling my tin foil hat down over my ears.

[ImmortalSix]

Originally Posted by Mojotron

A ROSS works great too - I got some finer grit drums liners to use for shaping to the line though: Those 80gt liners take a lot off really fast.

Where did you find finer grit drums for the ROSS?

I have one, too, and I have had a hard time finding drums that are the right dimension (can't find any tall enough), that are not the 80 grit Ridgid-branded 10-piece replacement pack from Home Depot.

Or do you just use drums that don't extend all the way up the rubber drum?

[Shepherd]

Do you mean like these?
http://www.grizzly.com/products/cate...spx?key=100216

http://www.grizzly.com/products/cate...spx?key=100063

[ratter]

My harbor freight sells packs of sleeves in different grits that fit the ROSS perfectly.

[ImmortalSix]

Originally Posted by Shepherd

Do you mean like these?
http://www.grizzly.com/products/cate...spx?key=100216

http://www.grizzly.com/products/cate...spx?key=100063

Originally Posted by ratter

My harbor freight sells packs of sleeves in different grits that fit the ROSS perfectly.

Thanks guys!

[Mojotron]

Originally Posted by ImmortalSix

Thanks guys!

I mainly use the 150gt from these (http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053) for close shaping to the line with the drums. And, I use a 220gt belt. The 80gt drums are really good for pre-router shaping, but the 150gt drums are way better at final shaping. I have not found finer than that, but 150gt is good enough for Maple.