started another telecaster build today x12

[ImmortalSix]

You're the man, keep it going!

[middy]

Awesome. But I hope you never need to remove one of those nuts... epoxy is tough!

[motor_city_tele]

From here on out, latex gloves will be worn for all neck handling. Oils on the fingertip wreak havoc when applying finishes.

My recipe for amber.
6 oz Deft Lacquer
18 oz Lacquer thinner
6 drops of stewmac red mahogany transparent dye
40 drops of Mixol number 6
20 drops of Mixol number 5
shake it up.


Before applying the tint, I did a thorough wipe of each neck with some acetone on a paper towel.


For something to hold while spraying, I fabricated a stick made out of some spare 3/8 inch dowel - about 8 inches long. I drilled a 3/16 inch hole down the middle. - a necksickle. I went nice and light for the first couple of passes.


Normally I would just hold the neck until dry - or hang it from the rafters but not this time. I need to knock out all these necks in the next couple hours. My drying rack - sorta.


When I thought the color was where I want it, I sprayed a couple of light coats of clear lacquer. here is a comparison from natural to tinted.


A shot of the back


A shot of the side


Hanging from the rafters until the next step. - decal application.


here is a shot of one of the necks next to a swatch of ash with my butterscotch blond recipe applied. I'm thinkin' it's pretty close. close enough for government work anyroad.


till text time - tootles - jb

[rcole_sooner]

Very nice looking amber, and thanks for the recipe!

That is some sweet lookin' flame.

So, you paint the heel. Do you sand it off later, or just not worry about it?

I just noticed the nuts. Are those just to keep the slots clean, or do you paint them too?

[motor_city_tele]

So, you paint the heel. Do you sand it off later, or just not worry about it?

not worry about it at this time. I'll mask the heel area off when I spray the bodies though.

I just noticed the nuts. Are those just to keep the slots clean, or do you paint them too?

Nuts are in for the duration. According to the Blackguard book, that is how it was done in the early days. I'll cut the slots when it comes time to assemble. I'll give them a wipe first to remove some of the amber color.

[motor_city_tele]

I've purposely decided to post tonights progress in two parts to stress how important it is in the late stages of a build to be patient. So many times the temptation exists that could have a negative impact in the finished product. I was tempted to grab the "dry to the touch" decals from their drying rack and start pasting them on, but I held back knowing that tomorrow will be a better day for it.

Here is a shot of my sample printout that I like to use for positioning and to make sure the inkjet is behaving before sending a piece of expensive decal stock through the rollers. When I'm happy with the size and style I will print out the actual decal paper. Note the string retainer position. I would hate to apply a bunch of decals to my headstocks only to find out that the string retainer will get drilled smack dab in the center of my signature.


After printing out a sheet of decals, I cut out what I needed and moved out of doors. One thing to note is - always spray the clear finish before cutting out any of the decals. Some of the clear soaks into the paper where it has been cut and will keep the backing material from absorbing the water necessary for a clean removal.


Here is what I use for spraying my decals. I give it two coats. the first coat as always is a tad bit lighter than the second coat. The clear coat will help keep the moister from attacking the ink and making a runny mess.


Tomorrow I will inspect the headstocks to make sure they are properly prepped for the adhesion of the decals. When that is ready, I will start the process.

[motor_city_tele]

Now that the decals I printed out and clear coated yesterday are ready to go, I'll give it a go. First thing to do is cut them out with scizzors or an x-acto. I like scizzors.

Before applying the decals I wiped down the headstock making sure the surface is clean and smooth.


This next part goes pretty fast so make sure you have everything ready to go. Here is what I use to hold the water. A mushroom container that was washed out. Toss the decal in the water and start counting.


After 30 seconds pull the decal out and set it on the paper towel. still counting.
At 45 seconds, give the heastock one last wipe with the wetted paper towel.
At 55 seconds, pick up the decal and slide a little bit off the backing.


At 60 seconds, position the exposed decal into position and slowly slide the backing paper out while holding down the decal. - stop counting.


Using a dry piece of paper towel, carefully pat the edges flat, gently squeezing the moister out from under the decal but being careful not to apply any lateral pressure that may move the decal, creating wrinkles.


When the decal looks like it is completely adhered, stop touching it, nothing good can happen by touching it now.


That's lucky number thirteen.


Here is a shot of all of the necks, One thing to note. It is more important for a good clean adhesion than it is for an exact position. Unless you are comparing all of them together, nobody is going to realize that maybe the decal is a little crooked or whatever.


Now I'll let them dry once again and see how they look in the morning.

until next time - tootles - jb

[adirondak5]

You are a one man factory , very nice , this is a great thread.

[rcole_sooner]

Okay, I am a computer person, so I could see the serial numbers going from 0 to 11, but 13? I think your hiding something from us. There must be a sweet one back there gettin' number 1, eh?

Wait! There are 14 necks.

I thought this was x12.

Never hurts to have a few extra I guess. This answers my serial number question.

[Mr. E]

Damn, you make guitar building seem so easy. You're inspiring to make my own guitar nuts. What did you use to make them? Give me some tips

Thanks

[motor_city_tele]

***There must be a sweet one back there gettin' number 1, eh?***

Number one has long left this earth. I built it 35 years ago. It was a poor attempt at a Les Paul lookin thang. I had nothing to guide me on the build except some photos from a Cream Magazine. It had a formica body sandwiched between 2 pieces of 1/4 in plywood. I cut out the pieces with a coping saw. The neck was oak I believe, and was glued into position using some type of epoxy. The frets . . . oh the frets. I remember the frets, a coat hanger - straightened out and cut into pieces. they were glued to the plywood fretboard with epoxy. - no slots. nut was plywood too. Number two was built the same year. It played but still was a piece of crap. - 25 years later til present - numbers 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8 were born. my blackguards start with number 0009.

***What did you use to make them?(nuts) Give me some tips***

I bought the nut material at Petco. It is made from a cattle femur bone and has been cleaned, bleached, and packaged as a dog treat. There is a picture of it on page two or so of this thread. I ripped the slices on my band saw and used a dremel for the rest of the shaping.

As far as tips . . . Don't slice it up in front of your dog. There's a good chance he will retaliate in some way or another.

tootles - jb

[bottled]

Excellent work.

Thanks for documenting your progress; it is an absolute pleasure to observe this demonstration of your skills and resourcefulness. Keep on truckin'.

[mgdesigns]

What a great group photo of the necks. Shazam - you really make it look easy, when we know it really is not easy at all. Your guitars are going to sell like hotcakes, or fresh fried Michigan donuts at the Apple Cider Mill in the Fall. Keep this thread going - I am really learning a lot.

I only remember seeing 6 pickups being made, are you buying some? Or are you going to make more? You are a freaking factory. Thanks.

[motor_city_tele]

***I only remember seeing 6 pickups being made, are you buying some? Or are you going to make more? ***

I am still deciding if I am going to wind more for this run of bodies. I have some GFS bridge pickups in my inventory that I can use too. I also have some neck pickups that may get used. One thought I had was to rewind them but it seems like a waste to me. I'll see how they sound and make that decision. As far as the six that I wound, I am going to find my six best necks, and combine that with the six best bodies and start there. One weird note - when I made the very first resistance check for the first pickup I wound, It came out 6.66k - I knew I was onto something. no lie - 6.66k

now that pickup reads 6.59k

Temperature affects resistance, just handling the pickup alone raises the resistance.

[cguy]

Great job so far. I'm watching this with interest as I have a Blackguard in my future

[JBennett]

I love the necks and logo decals, but wish those "Made in Detroit serial no." decals were not at the tip of the headstock. They would be better placed at the heel of the neck, or by the truss-rod...

[motor_city_tele]

Nothing makes a mess like routing out bodies. Compound that by a dozen and pretty soon you're up to your hips in Ash chips.

Since I've been repeating the same process for the past few days, I figured it would be sorta boring talking about spraying a coat of lacquer and letting dry, sorta like watching paint dry I guess. no use wasting bandwidth on that.

But there is one little process I like to do between coats. and that is lightly wet sand the decal around the edges with some 600 grit. I want the seam to be as smooth as can be from neck to decal.


While the necks are tucked away, in a safe place, I pulled out my template and router stuff. first thing I do is mark two places where I will drill into the body. What? drill into the face of the body? Yes. I figure that a small hole under the bridge is more desireable than double sticky tape failing and ruining a body.


I mark the hole by turning the drill bit between my fingers. I removed the template and drill the smallest of holes maybe 3/8 inch deep.


I attach the template to the body using wood screws. 1 under the bridge and 1 where the neck pocket will be routed. I use a couple of bits in my router table for the process of routing the body. The first bit has a top bearing. I make one pass, remove the template, then make another pass. After those are complete, I change to a bottom bearing bit, flip the body over and complete the rout.


When that is done, I attach the template back on to the body and fire up my plunge router with a shorter, top bearing bit. I like to take maybe 1/4 inch at a time for the cavities, measuring after each rout. The last rout is the 1/8 roundover on the edges. I use the router table for this.


Another shot of one of my esquire type bodies.


I couldn't help dropping in a pickup and laying the pick guard into position.


Next time I should be drilling some holes between the cavities and drilling the jack holes.

[mgdesigns]

Are you making all Esquires? Just asking for the masses of on-lookers. We're watching and I am amazed.

[motor_city_tele]

I will probably make 5 complete of each.

I have enough hardware for 10 complete instruments.

None of my pick guards have been routed for the neck pickup yet so I'll cross that bridge when I get there. All of the bodies will have routs for the neck pickup though. - just in case I want to add a pickup. I'll wire the pots and stuff to order.

[smsuryan]

my god man, youre a machine!!! if you were my neighbor i would come over constantly..thats amazing work..not just one or two teles, but ...what is it 14? and good looking work too not some state fair tele...(state fair tele???)