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| Tele Home Depot Building a T-Style guitar? From scratch or from parts. This is the forum for you. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: New York
Age: 19
Posts: 1,109
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Building my first neck
Ok, so I'm going to try to build a neck from scratch, my question is, what do I need to know?
My plan is for a super thick 1.2-1.5" V neck, no trussrod, tele headstock. What tools do I need for this? I currently have: -Table saw -Drill press -Router and bits -Jigsaw -Various handrills -miterbox (with a hacksaw) -belt sander -pretty much any handtool you can name (is there any other ones I'll need that you can think of?) So my first step is a pdf of a neck, anyone know where can I find one? Also I know maple is the preferred wood, but seeing as its my first neck could I use some of the buckets of pine 2x4s to practice with instead (as this will most likely be unusable anyways)? Or should I buy a maple board from lowes? (Keep in mind I want to work with something soft at first as my experience with these tools is limited right now) Thanks in advance for any help and sorry for all the questions
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"I'm so hidden and you're never gonna see; I'm cold forgiven all because of my beliefs; I'm nobody that you ever wanna be; Cause I know that the world is afraid of me" ~Twiztid |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Doctor of Teleocity
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Did you do a search for Neck Template via the search function ?
I just did, 1st returned thread contains this PDF of a BroadCaster Neck drawing: 'BROADCASTER NECK 2D-Model.pdf' I am building my 1st 6. ;) 5 there, 1st one on the other side of the shop. ;) |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: New York
Age: 19
Posts: 1,109
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Quote:
__________________
"I'm so hidden and you're never gonna see; I'm cold forgiven all because of my beliefs; I'm nobody that you ever wanna be; Cause I know that the world is afraid of me" ~Twiztid |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Doctor of Teleocity
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Quote:
Maple is the first most popular choice, out my 6 one is poplar and the rest canary. Use what you want to, just find out why one wood may not be a best choice. I say, yes, make a pine neck. At least you can use it for a slide neck, or maybe just eBay it to cover expenses and do a maple or other next. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Doctor of Teleocity
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Or at least some coping saw blades [and saw] that have a .022-023" kerf/cut. That being said, I bought a double sided .022" kerf.. [I broke out a dial caliper to make sure.] Stanley Flush Cut Pull Saw at Home Despot today for $13.49. ![]() When I got home I took a scrap of the Canary and cut a slot with the new saw, and my coping saw with a .023" kerf blade. Popped in fret into each slot, and the found the new saw was a lot easier to stabilize and get a clean cut with. There you go... |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Reading, Massachusetts
Age: 35
Posts: 438
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robt57 is right: pullsaws are easier to use for a narrow, shallow cut like a fretslot.
As for the rest, I'm confused... you're not saying you want to make a real-life guitar neck out of pine, with no trussrod. Are you? Practice is fine, but I really doubt pine will give you as good a practice experience as hardwood will. I'd suggest poplar (for cheap practice) and maple for the real thing... but I'd add a trussrod. I also love making necks out of oak, but that's just me. To me, the two indispensible neckmaking tools are a sharp spokeshave and a rasp (for the area near the heel). The spokeshave can be a pain to get used to; it's a frustrating tool until you get the hang of it, but it's unmatched for carving your neck shape. The hardest part about neckmaking, for me, is figuring out how to hold the damn thing. It's customary to leave some wood on each side for awhile, for use with a vise, but eventually you gotta cut those off. That's a sad day for me, as there's little left to hold it reliably. Benedetto's book has a plan for a spokeshaving fixture, but I haven't gotten around to making one yet.
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M Dixon Reading, MA |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
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I'm also in the starting stages of making necks.
There are several youtube vids of guys demonstrating jigs, etc., that they've made to make necks. Some real good info there. I'm a "visual" person, so if you're like me, and seeing is a better way to learn, youtub is a good resource. I'm' in the jig building process at this point. I'm planning on using scrap pine too, as it just seems like a good way to learn and not burn up hard earned money in the process. My plan is to make a jig for as many of the steps as possible. This way I'll at least get consistent results. Sometime us Nashville cats should get together.
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Directions? What directions. No one told me there were directions. |
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#14 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Meister
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Quote:
For me, I'm thinking that after the neck build learning process comes the pickup building process. That would leave you with only having to buy tuners, a bridge, a control plate, pots, and a few other small ticket items.
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Directions? What directions. No one told me there were directions. |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Reading, Massachusetts
Age: 35
Posts: 438
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Practice-wise, for me, a Tele neck would be easy compared to an acousitc or an archtop, mostly because the two toughest parts for me to get smooth and fluid are a full-depth heel and the area where the neck and the headstock meet (for angled headstocks). I haven't yet tried a Tele neck, but I would think it'd be a lot easier to get nice-looking results.
As for the reasons for neckmaking... I got into it because I figured it couldn't possibly be as hard as I'd heard. For the most part, I was right. Plus, I just like being able to point to a guitar or uke and say, "I made everything on that" (or, at least, the wooden parts). Gives me a nice sense of accomplishment. Plus, for those of us in a non-production environment, it's awfully relaxing.
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M Dixon Reading, MA |
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#16 (permalink) | |
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Doctor of Teleocity
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Quote:
If pine I would use a truss. My 1st neck is poplar, and quarter sawn as close to 90^ center line. The poplar I am using is 25 years old minimum, and 1-1/8" starting thickness. It also was shaped taking advantage of a slight back bow. Post of this poplar blank here in my build thread |
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#17 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Holic
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Seattle
Age: 46
Posts: 748
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Quote:
Pine does split easily, full quarter-sawn pieces might have some issues at the heel. |
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#18 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Holic
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Seattle
Age: 46
Posts: 748
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Quote:
I would not say that it's easy, but it's not that hard either. Making a neck is much tougher than making a Tele body IMO, but with some patience it's doable for anyone that can make a body. If I can make a neck, just about anyone could :) |
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#19 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: New York
Age: 19
Posts: 1,109
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Quote:
__________________
"I'm so hidden and you're never gonna see; I'm cold forgiven all because of my beliefs; I'm nobody that you ever wanna be; Cause I know that the world is afraid of me" ~Twiztid |
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#22 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: New York
Age: 19
Posts: 1,109
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What do I need? I have a die and tap set. I need some 1/4 steel rod right? what else? (thanks)
__________________
"I'm so hidden and you're never gonna see; I'm cold forgiven all because of my beliefs; I'm nobody that you ever wanna be; Cause I know that the world is afraid of me" ~Twiztid |
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#23 (permalink) | |
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Doctor of Teleocity
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Quote:
Not a set, one tap, one die, Some 1/2 rod, some 1/4 rod, drills and some cutting oil so the tap and die don't tap and die too soon. ;) Ball peen hammer, vice, [not Miami] and some goop to clean you hands before you touch bare wood after threading and assembling the truss rods. You will need some sort of nut and washer for the business end of you assemblies.. |
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#25 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Holic
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Seattle
Age: 46
Posts: 748
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Quote:
I think you are supposed to use low carbon steel, but I just use what they have or stainless (which I think is no stronger). It's pretty easy, with some practice, to make a good truss rod. I did have to buy the hex adjust nuts from USACG, but I drive past their shop all the time and it was easy for me to drop in on them and beg for parts. With the heel adjust you can make those yourself just by using some 1/2" rod threaded lengthwise. Some of my truss rods have been off center by about 1/32nd but still worked perfectly. The tools I would add to the list that I was really glad I bought were one of those big 16" aluminum sanding block for the fretboard contouring, a diamond crowning file, a nut file set and one fret press insert for the fret contour I use. The 16" aluminum sanding block and diamond crowning file did all of the level crown work I needed - takes very little time to do a really good fretjob if you have those tools on hand. |
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