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Tele Home Depot Building a T-Style guitar? From scratch or from parts. This is the forum for you.

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Old March 11th, 2010, 07:18 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Tip for Template Makers

I don't know if this is a tip or not. However, I see everyone making templates using terry's PDF drawing ans simply gluing it onto a 3/4" MDF sheet and then cutting away. Then, like it happened to me, the paper rips. Why not glue it on, wait for the glue to dry and then hit it with some left over clear, varnish or whatever. Then when you are cutting around the paper will be nice and hard, and then when sanding comes along there's no worries. Also, I highly recommend using 1/4" MDF then transfering to 3/4" MDF as mentioned by jwells and others.

So, somebody tell me I'm stupid (I'm used to it).

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Old March 11th, 2010, 09:46 AM   #2 (permalink)
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That's how I do it. Better than ripped paper....
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Old March 11th, 2010, 10:24 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Ya - I use spray clear gloss poly over mine, then the same stuff on on the MDF sides when I get done cutting a master template.

Then I build with a copy of the master.
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Old March 11th, 2010, 10:40 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks! Things like this make this forum worthwile...
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Old March 11th, 2010, 11:06 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I ain't so bad I guess

Nice to see some are already doing this

Hey tuuur, good to see some European input on this forum. Go metric system!
(Maybe someday I'll see your shop, I'm %100 3rd generation Dutch-Canadain and want to make a trip over.)
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Old March 11th, 2010, 11:21 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonyv77 View Post
I don't know if this is a tip or not. However, I see everyone making templates using terry's PDF drawing ans simply gluing it onto a 3/4" MDF sheet and then cutting away. Then, like it happened to me, the paper rips. Why not glue it on, wait for the glue to dry and then hit it with some left over clear, varnish or whatever. Then when you are cutting around the paper will be nice and hard, and then when sanding comes along there's no worries. Also, I highly recommend using 1/4" MDF then transfering to 3/4" MDF as mentioned by jwells and others.

So, somebody tell me I'm stupid (I'm used to it).
Thats a good tip , last one I made I used a razor knife to trim to the line on the drawing so I wouldnt tear it when sanding to the line , spraying clear on it will eliminate that. Thanks !
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Old March 11th, 2010, 06:46 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Thanks. Some times simple things escape me. Going to put this to work tomorrow. Taking a day off so I can work in the shop all day.
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Old March 11th, 2010, 06:55 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I use minwax wood hardener to shore up the mdf. It soaks waaaayyy in to make it almost bulletproof.


I think I learned this from Ron Kirn.
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Old March 11th, 2010, 07:02 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I use minwax wood hardener to shore up the mdf. It soaks waaaayyy in to make it almost bulletproof.


I think I learned this from Ron Kirn.
Another good tip
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Old March 11th, 2010, 07:43 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I cut the paper out to the line with scissors, tape it on in a few places and trace around it. Paper is thick enough to guide the pencil.
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Old March 11th, 2010, 08:41 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I cut the paper out to the line with scissors, tape it on in a few places and trace around it. Paper is thick enough to guide the pencil.
I'd do that but the plotter paper where I print my plans (at work) is to thin. Plus I would like to have holes and cavities laid out for me without worrying about the paper moving. Nick JD I think you're a bit over my skill level so you probably don't worry about these things like I do. I'm just a Engineering type guy who would like to work with his hands. I use all my technical skill I have to minimize the hands on learning curve.
Nice Idea about wood hardener. I should try that when I make the 3/4" "final" template.
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Old March 11th, 2010, 10:09 PM   #12 (permalink)
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More tips with the minwax: Use a foam brush but don't drag; just tap. The mdf will soak up more.

I worry about wearing out holes when using them as guides for drilling. Short of inserting metal inserts, I use a syringe to squirt the minwax through the template. (small plastic bowl underneath) Keeps it from wearing out.
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Old March 12th, 2010, 12:52 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Hi guys

Plain ole' sanding sealer works real good.
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Old March 12th, 2010, 01:53 AM   #14 (permalink)
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My neck template seemed to have shrunk 1/64" - any know of the best way to add 1/128th or 1/64" to each side?
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Old March 12th, 2010, 09:24 AM   #15 (permalink)
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foil tape (like for HVAC)
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Old March 12th, 2010, 10:05 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Hey Tonyv77, where abouts in NB are you? I'm in Fredericton.
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Old March 12th, 2010, 11:06 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
My neck template seemed to have shrunk 1/64"

that's about .015.... or about the thickness of a good 'ol index card.... the paint will be thicker
n that when you're done.... don't sweat it... Leo didn't


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