Scale Length - Saddle Question

[trappingtexas]

I've been reading a lot about scale length and proper set up. But..where do you set the saddle to begin with? Do you start with the saddle in the middle, all the way forward, back, quarter, etc.? And...which saddle? All?

[David Collins]

Is this question in reference to a guitar which already has strings on it, or one you are building? If it has strings on it, the answer to your question is in the guitar. Check it, and it will tell you which way the saddles should be from their current position.

There's no hard rule as to where the saddles should start relative to the bridge itself, as bridge positions and types will vary.

[trappingtexas]

Originally Posted by David Collins

Is this question in reference to a guitar which already has strings on it, or one you are building? If it has strings on it, the answer to your question is in the guitar. Check it, and it will tell you which way the saddles should be from their current position.

There's no hard rule as to where the saddles should start relative to the bridge itself, as bridge positions and types will vary.

This is on a new build. The bridge holes have already been drilled so it's just a matter of putting on the bridge and the neck to determine where to drill the holes for the neck and to make sure everything is correct.

[David Collins]

Then there's really no way for us to say, without being able to actually measure it. In any case, your saddle positions will be dictated by the fretboard, and not reliably referenced to the bridge itself.

For some very, very generic measurements, you can mark the end of your scale length on the bridge (i.e., mark the bridge at the same distance from 12th fret, as nut is from 12th in the other direction). Beyond this mark your saddles will typically fall .040"/E, .070"/B, .100"/G, .075"/D, .125"/A, and .180"/E, beyond that mark. Again, very generic ballparks, differing widely from setup to setup, and one string choice to another.

Or of course, you could just string it up and see, which is probably the much simpler way. You can often save a set of strings by starting with the saddles farther back than you expect them to end up. Start with them too far forward, and as you bring the saddles back to flatten them you will be leaving a kink in the string within the speaking length, thereby rendering them less useful for accurately setting intonation (assuming you have a decent breakover angle). Start with them too far back, and as you bring them forward to sharpen them the kinks will be outside the speaking length, and not interfere with the function of the strings.

[trappingtexas]

I placed the neck on the guitar and just set the bridge on the body exactly where it should go and then measured from inside the nut to the saddles. The saddles are all the way forward and if they were set about halfway back, this would be 25.5" exactly. Sorry I'm not understanding this too well, but if the measurment is to the breaking point on the saddle and the saddle can be moved/adjusted, shouldn't there be a set starting point for the saddle (all the way back, all they way forward, 1/2 way)?

[trappingtexas]

I guess I need to add that I'm still working on the neck pocket. I have a very small gap between the front and sides of the neck and pocket. So, I'm trying to figure out if I need to keep adjusting the neck pocket or if it's ok as is and the only way to tell that is if the scale length is correct. (I have two other posts about the neck pocket)

[telemaster8]

Half way is a good starting point . if it is 25.5" , just make sure you have enough range
on each screw to make a few turns in either direction because your intonation wil vary
slightly depending on string guages of choice . I used an interesting method from my Fender manual . Set e at 25.5" , then move B saddle back equal to the string guage for B , same for the G saddle using it's guage . then start over with D saddle = to B saddle , "A" saddle back by it's guage and E by it's guage.

[Nick JD]

Pushing the string down to fret it stretches it slightly making it's pitch a wee bit higher than you want, so you lengthen the string.

The saddles will have to come back from 25.5 to allow for this.

[trappingtexas]

Here is a picture of the "rough" measurement. 25.5" is not actually quite in the middle of the saddle screw..more like 3/4.



I think I should try and get the gap completely out of the neck pocket just to get a little more.



I guess I was making this harder for myself than I should have..lol. I don't have much of a choice. The bridge position is already drilled and if the neck is all the way in, it will pretty much end up where it's going to end up.

[Nick JD]

You'll be fine!