1959 Les Paul Build

[preeb]

Originally Posted by dynamohum

Just looking at this picture posted by Gil.

Is that an IBM Model M keyboard in the background ??? My favourite keyboard ever. I've written many a bug-free(ish) program on that over-engineered clickety-clack monster. Much respect to you for always following the true and pure vintage path. Buckling springs (and '59 bursts) FTW .

Yes... Made in USA Model M... the only one I can use... the new ones are horrible. I like the feel and sound of it + it has that perfect high action too... you know... (-;

['59_Standard]

Gil, in relation to what Nuance97 asked about the dyes.

The TransFast is (I suspect) Code: FTBR

LMI Page 1

And the other Red is (I assume) is FSTR

LMI Page 2

Earlier - pg30 - you wrote :

"I'll add dark red pigment to the filler which will not fade in UV "

So is that another Red Dye than the above two or one of them mixed - which I think Nuance is aso refering to.

Thanks!

[preeb]

Originally Posted by '59_Standard

Gil, in relation to what Nuance97 asked about the dyes.

The TransFast is (I suspect) Code: FTBR

LMI Page 1

And the other Red is (I assume) is FSTR

LMI Page 2

Earlier - pg30 - you wrote :

"I'll add dark red pigment to the filler which will not fade in UV "

So is that another Red Dye than the above two or one of them mixed - which I think Nuance is aso refering to.

Thanks!

Oh... I thought I mentioned that...
Yes... the above FSTR are for the red clear and top. A different pigment color set was used for the filler which is more UV resistant (same stuff I use for the pre-CBS 64-65 burst red). It doesn't mean it will stay forever red.... but it will fade much slower than the 59 type aniline into the expected beautiful original faded look.

[preeb]

For those who have naturally reliced the refresh button... I'm in the "waiting zone" again... and unfortunately, that's how it is with protos... constantly testing and changing stuff... sorry (-;
I'm expecting a first bobbin batch today... if it's good enough I'll use it.. but if not... we're back in the molding game again...
The reason I'm not doing the top yet are the new STP inserts that were made for me with 100% historically correct specs (Material and shape...). They should be inserted prior to finishing... and I'd like to use them for the proto instead the ones I currently have which look good but made of a harder steel which is a big tone killer for Lesters...

[Sterling Sound]

Originally Posted by preeb

For those who have naturally reliced the refresh button...

Hilarious

Trying to find a way to always get to the last page of this thread..

[nuance97]

Originally Posted by preeb

I pore the pigment on top of the filler. I changed the mix to 59/39/2 RED/BROWN/BLUE to get a brighter red in the pores.

I'm trying to take in all of this info, but a couple more questions..If you don't mind. When you say 59/39/2 do you measure this in droplets? How much of the dissolved dye mix [dissolved in mineral turpentine I now Know] do you combine with how much filler? From the photo it looks like maybe 1/4 or 1/3 cup?

Is mineral turpentine the same as mineral spirits? Or is it two different things?

Originally Posted by preeb

Here's the mix: Red 50%, Amber 40%, Brown 8%, Blue 1%, black 1%
I'll prepare the color and allow it to fully dessolve before usage.

Here again measured in droplets? And from the pic it looks like the dye/thinner mixture is added to maybe 2 or three ounces of lacquer?

[preeb]

Masking is removed from bindings



No bleedind for now... very good!





Door is opened for direct sunlight... so color is more realistic



Still waiting for the inserts in order to proceed with the top color.........

[Scott Auld]

Originally Posted by kwerk

"that thing looks like it came out of the Ark... I wonder if Gil has any of that 3000 year old teak lying around?"

What kind of grain do you get in gopher wood? :D

Originally Posted by preeb

For those who have naturally reliced the refresh button

LOL - classic!

Originally Posted by Sterling Sound

Trying to find a way to always get to the last page of this thread..

I always keep a preeb thread open in a tab in the browser. I never close it. And I'm always sad when the posts dry up because the guitar was finished a month earlier! :)

[Scott Auld]

PS - I never close the Emeraldcaster thread either! Always open in a tab. :)

[preeb]

Originally Posted by nuance97

I'm trying to take in all of this info, but a couple more questions..If you don't mind.

I do the tests with a little special spoon used for powder. It's exactly 0.1 CC
Once the color is acceptable I mix a large quantity to last for many guitars so I don't need to remix it... and I tag and store it in a dark area for the next time I'll need to use it.

It's a feel thing... I add a little and if not pasty enough I add more...etc... it's not an accurate science.

I don't know. I always buy this as Turpentine. It's the correct thinner for oil based fillers and paints + also disolves aniline and pigment colors... so it's just perfect for the job. It will not attack the ABS, CAB and Celluloid bindings.

Same thing as above... for coloring I only add a little lacquer in order to get better control in multiple slow passes... no rules in spraying... do what you feel is right

V$#V

[nuance97]

Thank you very much! =D

[QuickDilation]

Originally Posted by preeb

For those who have naturally reliced the refresh button... I'm in the "waiting zone" again...

Gil! I need my fix! It's killing me, this thread is like crack! :-P

[preeb]

Originally Posted by QuickDilation

Gil! I need my fix! It's killing me, this thread is like crack! :-P

Sorry... not my intention... but we'll get to the cracks in the final relicing stage (-;

[preeb]

An early bird... new bobbins arrived at my doorstep!



vintage correct size and tooling marks... etc...



Very nice material too...



Minimum quantity of a few hundred black sets... and only a few white samples. I should have asked for the slug side whites...there's nothing to do with them right now since the standard zebras have the white bobbin for the slugs.
The white color is superb though... see it against my M-69's.... beautiful!



compared to the current best available vintage bobbin... note the correct Ivory compared to the slightly pinkish color... there's also slight "depth" to it if you look closely... nice material indeed...

[oigun]

Is the taptone correct on those bobbins?

[preeb]

And for you purists and PAF nuts... yes... it even has the little round tooling mark on the slug side bobbin (-;

[preeb]

Originally Posted by oigun

Is the taptone correct on those bobbins?

I'll need to unwind the original test PAF again in order to check that... but I guess not. It's probably very close but the original CAB material is a little bit more flexible TMO.
As much as I love those (They *ARE* great don't get me wrong!) I can still imagine myself molding my own in the future.... unless someone else will do it first and offer them at a reasonable price (but we all know this will never appen). It will be a 3 part mold... a complicated one too... We'll see...

[dynamohum]

Gil, what are you going to be using for your tailpiece? I recently had an "interesting" coming together of an aluminium tailpiece and the melting point of said material... Live and learn and all that, but I'm now looking for a replacement - the original tailpiece (on a 1980 LP Custom) is still available as a reserve but it's so heavy. Think it's zinc or something. I prefer something lightweight for that "vintage" vibe :).

[treadwm]

Originally Posted by nuance97

Is mineral turpentine the same as mineral spirits? Or is it two different things?

They are two different things. They are often recommended for the same purposes but the outcome is sometimes very different.

For example, I use Sherwin Williams sanding sealer thinned down in my wood turning. The can sez to use either turp or mineral spirits to thin. If I use turpentine, no problem. Use mineral spirits (also sold as "oderless turpentine") and the solids flocculate and settle to the bottom. Not very good for sanding sealer. :)

I'd stick to the real turpentine, esp since Gil said that's what works for him.

[preeb]

Originally Posted by dynamohum

Gil, what are you going to be using for your tailpiece? I recently had an "interesting" coming together of an aluminium tailpiece and the melting point of said material... Live and learn and all that, but I'm now looking for a replacement - the original tailpiece (on a 1980 LP Custom) is still available as a reserve but it's so heavy. Think it's zinc or something. I prefer something lightweight for that "vintage" vibe :).

melting point? What are you talking about?!?!?
I have a few I made long ago from an original



but the master was "fixed" and "cleaned up" a little too much and some of the original tooling marks were gone in the "cleanup process"... long story... don't ask... another one of those experiences where you learn that in order to get something done right you either have to do it yourself or at least be there when it's done. I don't even own the mold... but it's still the best repro I can currently use and it doesn't respond to strong magnets like all the newer "Aluminum" ones... LOL
I'm planning a new batch with Marc... we have many things going on at once so I'm not sure if or how soon before it's made... it's definitely in the pipe though.

If you don't mind the magnetic attributes on the newer stuff you can get the Gotoh Aluminum STP. It's not super accurate... but it's not over priced either... very good value for the money!