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#962 (permalink) | |
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Poster Extraordinaire
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Israel
Age: 47
Posts: 5,673
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Quote:
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#964 (permalink) | |
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Poster Extraordinaire
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Israel
Age: 47
Posts: 5,673
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Quote:
It should be between 1 1/4" - 1 1/2" ( (-; ) from neck plane level... so you'll need 2 bits, one for entry and another for depth. I use 3/4" thick templates so my bit is pretty long @ 3" total or so. |
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#965 (permalink) |
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Poster Extraordinaire
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Israel
Age: 47
Posts: 5,673
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Thanks. It hurt me deeper than most human losses I have suffered over the years. It's the unconditional total love and devotion we get from them that makes them a blessed gift from g_d. There's a lot to learn there...
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#966 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: england uk
Posts: 205
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Two of the known lefty bursts are routed with the right handed channel and then drilled for the left handed wire hole. Even though they modified the shape of the cutaway significantly to avoid the righty channel, they still have little pieces of mahogany fitted in where the channel came through. There is at least one lefty goldtop with a lefty channel routed. This channel is only 1/2" wide and appears to be cut freehand, possibly just following a pencil line.
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#968 (permalink) |
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TDPRI Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Germany
Posts: 35
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hi there, iam still collecting Burst-information, i found this Picture here:
![]() is the 0,3125" Routerbit right? The depth for the humbucker-ears are 1 1/2" ? (on both pickupcarvings? so the neck pickup carving is deeper because the template is following the neck-Angel?) And how deep is the bigger, less deeper carve of the humbuckers? i couldnt find something about that. Sorry for my poor english |
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#969 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Holic
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Enfield London England
Age: 49
Posts: 815
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Quote:
Still we have Tess now...... the bloody dog's a loon, completely unhinged.
__________________
Lost the plot.....I never had it in the first place!
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#971 (permalink) | ||||
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Poster Extraordinaire
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Israel
Age: 47
Posts: 5,673
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#973 (permalink) |
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Poster Extraordinaire
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Israel
Age: 47
Posts: 5,673
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Found the tortoise sheet. It's a genuine Italian tort thick enough for the dots and in the exact correct 50's color mix.
I do not punch this material because it's too thick and will never get 100% round. Instead I take the extra effort in turning it. I cut it to little pieces and CA glue it to a 3/32" shaft on my Dremel ![]() Run it on a silicone abrasive surface (220 grit) until it's a perfect round 3/32" circle ![]() Hide glue gel is used because hot hide glue might deform the sharp drill in the binding (I think I never discussed the hide glue methods... I'll do it in a minute). I press the dots in ![]() and make sure they all stand a little proud over the binding surface
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#974 (permalink) |
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Poster Extraordinaire
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Israel
Age: 47
Posts: 5,673
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When the gel sets I flush sand the dots with 220, 500 and 800 because, unlike wood, the dots and cellulose bindings will show scratches after lacquering.
![]() I examine to verify it's all good under strong light
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#975 (permalink) |
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Poster Extraordinaire
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Israel
Age: 47
Posts: 5,673
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A few words on hide glue. I used many types over the years and finally settled on 256 gram strength. It's perfect for me... not too gummy and not too runny. It gels fast but not too fast so if you have some experience it allows more than enough time to set the clamping right.
I start by weighing the raw hide grains and add an equal weight of water to it and let it sit for minimum 30 minutes until it absorbs all water and looks like this ![]() I now put it in 70°C water until it turns into fresh liquid glue. I keep the lid on to keep the 1:1 glue:water ratio (important!) ![]() It only takes about 5 minutes or so to turn it into a ready to use glue
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#976 (permalink) |
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Poster Extraordinaire
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Israel
Age: 47
Posts: 5,673
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I put some away to cool down. It will turn into gel and used for the dots above.
The rest I'll use for gluing the board. On relatively large areas I add salt to the hot glue to get a longer wet time, otherwise it might get gelled before the clamping is done and will make me very nervous... (-; I add about half a spoon to every 100 gram. More is added for even bigger surfaces or tricky clamping situations. I'll let it sit in the hot tab for 30 minutes allowing the salt to disolve. Time to cut the nut blank... I need it for the final board placing. 6-6 Nylon sheet is cut ![]() Like that ![]() I tape the board to correct location and mark the nut line over the holly (I deliberately left it a bit longer). Don't get me wrong here... I trust measurements and plans but I always prefer to use the actual parts when I can.
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#977 (permalink) |
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Poster Extraordinaire
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Israel
Age: 47
Posts: 5,673
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A special file is used to bring the holly down to the line. It's flat on the wide sides and cuts on the narrow.
![]() I test the nut blank for a super tight fit ![]() on both sides, and make sure it doesn't rock and sits steady with zero voids. I believe it's important for tone and I explained this issue in details in another build. ![]() I now get ready for gluing. I shut down the AC and heat up the surfaces to be glued (a little)
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#978 (permalink) |
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Poster Extraordinaire
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Israel
Age: 47
Posts: 5,673
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I'll use a big brush and therefore will allow it to get hot in the glue for a couple of minutes. A cold brush will gel the hot glue too fast.
![]() I can't take shots of the gluing... sorry... I need both hands and my full attention to applying and clamping... anyway, Immediately after clamping with the 12" bar riding the frets, I check for creeping and remove the nut before the glue gels. I'll use a different hide glue mix for the nut. I turn the AC back on and leave it to get fully cured.
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