1959 Les Paul Build

[preeb]

Originally Posted by garsing

Gil
Loving the lefty progress so far.
Without getting too ahead of ourselves, what neck shapes do you like to aim for on your builds? i.e. C, D or V shaped? or is it a combination? I have read you say in past something along the lines of a neck with just the right amount of slopes, but I am sill not quite sure on the shape you mean and would appreciate it if you could clarify a little?

I personally prefer a slight V sloped chunky C back neck on a LP.
The spine is rounded alright... but the entry angle towards the board is less than 90° and there is less "shoulder" especially on the thumb side.
But this is just a general description... as you know, everyone has his own requirements... The above is done only when there are no requirements and I get a free hand in shaping the profile...

[Shepherd]

Dont those inlays also shrink with age, maybe why the filler is missing?

[preeb]

Originally Posted by Shepherd

Dont those inlays also shrink with age, maybe why the filler is missing?

They depend on each other. Mint examples hardly have any shrinkage because the filler is still intact... like Fender nitrate guards... once you unscrew them they shrink almost instantly.

[preeb]

Board is fretted. I make sure to cut the slots 0.002 wider than the tang.
Tang is 0.020"-0.021" so I cut the slots 0.023" wide.
I do this to prevent any fret pressure since it's not needed when the frets are glued in.

Frets are hammered in, trimmed and excess glue is wiped clean



I make sure they sit tight and kiss the board properly





I also make sure there's no fret surface presure and that the board is still straight



Fret ends are sanded square and flushed with the board edge. In this stage I bring the board to it's final dimension



Like that



I now start gluing the celluloid binding with a little acetone





I just had a new idea for clamping the board side binding... I need to do some tests first... be back soon (-;

[Gaetano]

Hi Gil, great progresses and explainations as always

I've found this pic of JP's #1 on ledzeppelin.com site and i thought about sharing it. The top grain can be seen perfectly!



One question: Is it easy to replicate the grain of a specific top? How much is it hard to find a maple top that can resemble another one? Is it only a matter of luck or there are some criteria that can be used in order to get a specific result?

I've always wondered about it!

Thanks as always

[preeb]

Originally Posted by Gaetano

Hi Gil, great progresses and explainations as always

I've found this pic of JP's #1 on ledzeppelin.com site and i thought about sharing it. The top grain can be seen perfectly!



One question: Is it easy to replicate the grain of a specific top? How much is it hard to find a maple top that can resemble another one? Is it only a matter of luck or there are some criteria that can be used in order to get a specific result?

I've always wondered about it!

Thanks as always

It's as easy as the number of tops one has in storage (-;
Seriously... high quality flamed Michigan Eastern maple is hard enough to dig out in lumber yard piles to begin with... so finding an exact match on a short notice will have to be based on whatever one has in storage, dry and ready to go as it takes at least a year to dry a split 8/4 board... but if that's what you're after it's always possible to come very close if you have the extra time to look for it.

[Gaetano]

Originally Posted by preeb

It's as easy as the number of tops one has in storage (-;
Seriously... high quality flamed Michigan Eastern maple is hard enough to dig out in lumber yard piles to begin with... so finding an exact match on a short notice will have to be based on whatever one has in storage, dry and ready to go as it takes at least a year to dry a split 8/4 board... but if that's what you're after it's always possible to come very close if you have the extra time to look for it.

Thanks for the replay Gil!

If going to build a guitar with what's stock in a medium sized stash for a professional buider, how much the result can come close to the original?

This time the question is interesting in prospective

[preeb]

Hmm... That would depend on how many asked for that top in the past.. .(-;
I heard they are working on a genetically engineered JP#1 maple specie.
No matter how you cut it, you'll get an exact JP#1 top... and sound too.
But I also heard it's not turning out so well... all they are getting are really nice flamed tops with nicely spread flames and deep 3d look... too bad...

[melomanarock]

Originally Posted by preeb

Hmm... That would depend on how many asked for that top in the past.. .(-;
I heard they are working on a genetically engineered JP#1 maple specie.
No matter how you cut it, you'll get an exact JP#1 top... and sound too.
But I also heard it's not turning out so well... all they are getting are really nice flamed tops with nicely spread flames and deep 3d look... too bad...

Could it be done? doesn't flame and grain pattern depend on weather, grow rate, soil, etc?? I love engineering myself since that's what I'll be, but replicating mother nature has prooved us wrong every time..
Anyway.. a genetically designed maple top wouldn't be historically accurate..

[Gaetano]

Originally Posted by preeb

Hmm... That would depend on how many asked for that top in the past.. .(-;
I heard they are working on a genetically engineered JP#1 maple specie.
No matter how you cut it, you'll get an exact JP#1 top... and sound too.
But I also heard it's not turning out so well... all they are getting are really nice flamed tops with nicely spread flames and deep 3d look... too bad...

LoL.

[Shepherd]

On your Fender necks you install the frets from the side, any reason you dont use that method here?

[preeb]

Originally Posted by Shepherd

On your Fender necks you install the frets from the side, any reason you dont use that method here?

Same reason as always... historical accuracy.
Fender trust the tang barbs and Gibson trust glue.

[madebydave]

Here's a lefty, I knew that guy had one.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bBExw680Btk

http://madebydave.yolasite.com Some of my hand made guitars can be found there. Currently building 1958 Flying V

['59_Standard]

Originally Posted by madebydave

Here's a lefty, I knew that guy had one.

[preeb]

Nice burst footage there...
Actually... that guy has two.

[garsing]

Originally Posted by preeb

I personally prefer a slight V sloped chunky C back neck on a LP.
The spine is rounded alright... but the entry angle towards the board is less than 90° and there is less "shoulder" especially on the thumb side.
But this is just a general description... as you know, everyone has his own requirements... The above is done only when there are no requirements and I get a free hand in shaping the profile...

That shape sounds good to me. The 50 necks I have played sure have a soft V at the lower registers. I guess that is the vintage "feel" I am after. Less shoulders = soft V

Interesting that you say especially on the thumb side, I take it vintage necks were not very symetrical ?

[garsing]

Originally Posted by preeb

Nice burst footage there...
Actually... that guy has two.

John MKenroe the tennis player too I believe!?

YOU CANNOT BE SERIOUS!!

..sorry

[Shepherd]

McEnroe has a 57 goldtop and a 59 burst.

[preeb]

Originally Posted by garsing

That shape sounds good to me. The 50 necks I have played sure have a soft V at the lower registers. I guess that is the vintage "feel" I am after. Less shoulders = soft V

Interesting that you say especially on the thumb side, I take it vintage necks were not very symetrical ?

Nothing on vintage guitars is too symmetrical... (-;
It was all manual back then. They had a shaper bit to rough the neck but did most of the final shaping on the belt and spindle sanders.
The necks that I like the most are the ones with more slope on the thumb side.

[Scooby Snax]

Originally Posted by preeb

Nothing on vintage guitars is too symmetrical... (-;
It was all manual back then. They had a shaper bit to rough the neck but did most of the final shaping on the belt and spindle sanders.
The necks that I like the most are the ones with more slope on the thumb side.

For those of us with smaller hands / fingers who don't hook a thumb over the top, it's awful comfortable too!