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| Tele Home Depot Building a T-Style guitar? From scratch or from parts. This is the forum for you. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Chicago
Posts: 480
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how I spent saturday...(necks galore)
I cleaned up last night and set the afternoons progress on the table with necks getting ready to be shipped out. I shot this picture and wanted to share it with you.
First 9 blanks are ready for truss rod installation process. ( First one is Purpleheart strat, 5th one is Jatoba tele, 3 flamey tele necks, an oversize tele-strat neck and a few regular maple blanks.) The next 3 are waiting for frets. And the last 4 or 5 are ready to ship. I think there is 18 in all...
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#3 (permalink) |
![]() Friend of Leo's
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Volusia County, Florida
Posts: 2,436
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I put frets in three necks last night. I C & L'ed one and made one bone nut. My hands are like raw meat.
Granted, there is that sense of accomplishment (a new task for me), but I'd rather do anything than clip, file, sand or otherwise handle spiky necks. The other two spikey monsters remain. I like bodies. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Nueces Strip
Posts: 4,407
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Do you do all 2 piece necks? you know, truss rod installed from the front?
Either way, that is a boatload of work you've got going on there.
__________________
Turn it on, turn it up, turn me loose. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Chicago
Posts: 480
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Tex, yes. I only do slab boards right now. To be honest, I think it makes a better neck. I am sure that is debateable, but right now I am striving to make the best necks possible and not just meet the demands of the public. I think the two different woods glued together makes a more stable neck than a one piece neck. In fact if I can do flatsawn or just off-flatsawn necks with quarter sawn fingerboards, I prefer it. I think they sound great and seem to be stable over the long run. That has been my expierence but of course yours may differ. I may start building 1 piece skunk stripe necks too, but it really has to prove to be stable for me to build them on a on-going basis.
Otter, the very last neck in the picture is a Mandocaster neck. It was an electric mandolin that was being made by Fender from the late 50's to the early 70's as far as I know. That was a clone I build for a customer. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Chicago
Posts: 480
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Yes. I use the standard luthier serial number plan for my necks that I sell. The first number is the number neck and the last is the year. So 2210 is the 22nd neck made in 2010. The only variance is that some start the first digit over each year while others continue on. So 2109 would be followed by 2210 if the year changed before the next one was complete. Others would do 0109, 0209 for necks made in 09 and 0110, 0210 for necks made in 2010. I them keep them all logged in a book.
I use a perminent marker on the heel. The only issue is that I send them out raw and the number can be removed. I have struggled with this. I stamp (indent) my serial number on the necks I use with my own builds. But most ask me to not mark the necks I sell to them. I even was going to by a branding iron with my logo or name on it, but many say they don't like the branding on the heel. For me, if they remove my number, I can not identify them as my own. I then will not help them with any issues. Finally, I thought about just stamping an inital on the tip top of the headstock or something. Just some mark to identify it as mine. But I just don't have a solution. If you have a suggestion...I am all ears. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Lake Stevens, WA
Age: 24
Posts: 1,552
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Maybe a small brand where a tuner would cover it, on the back of course?
I would say the heel is the best place for any marking...
__________________
"There is nothing like the smell of "Twang" in the morning" - Arlo |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Thundertown
Age: 29
Posts: 216
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I say if u want people to see your name put it on the front. If u want to hide it do it on the back, about 1/8" or so under the tuners, lots of space to work with on the back and its hidden til someone looks right at it. If its just a serial number it will be even more inconspicuous.
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Hold my Beer and watch this! |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Doctor of Teleocity
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I would just stamp something on the heel. You built it so you should be able to mark it. The heel can't be seen when its attached to a guitar.
I stamp a serial number on every body and neck I build whether someone wants it there or not. It's not an issue thats even up for debate.
__________________
-Creator of Fine Sawdust and Expensive Kindling.
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#13 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Florida
Age: 5
Posts: 157
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Quote:
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#14 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Hoggetowne, FL
Age: 40
Posts: 1,468
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It should be standard practise for any builder to use a maker's mark in an inconspicuous location (like the neck pocket/heel). But if a customer doesn't want it, then explain that you can't warranty the neck if you can't identify it as yours. That should be simple enough for almost any situation.
Good looking necks BTW.
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#17 (permalink) |
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NEW MEMBER!
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Chicago!
Age: 28
Posts: 9
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Hey Joe!
First and foremost great necks dude those are gorgeous and im not gonna try Hijack your thread. I live in Chicago(West Loop UIC-Med district) and I'm building( or parts-o-castering) an esquire build and i will def. need a neck sooner than later can you PM me or just put it on the forums with more information about your process. I would rather go with a local Luthier/ wood shaper than to order online. |
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#19 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Christchurch, New Zealand
Age: 18
Posts: 135
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Oh yeah just thought id say, If people dont want you to put a stamp on it where they cant see it, dont give them a warrenty unless you put your stamped serial number with JD or something on it.
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