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| Tele Home Depot Building a T-Style guitar? From scratch or from parts. This is the forum for you. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 1,261
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Recessed straplocks?
Has anyone here ever attempted a recessed straplock as seen on this Alembic?
![]() It seems like implementing this should be pretty straightforward, but if anyone has an tips, I'd appreciate them. I'll be doing this on a guitar with a fairly heavy finish, and chipping that finish is my biggest concern.
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"Everybody should be able to make some music - that's the cosmic dance!" - Maude |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Boston
Posts: 1,328
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Those are the old style Dunlop ones, right? I'd imagine if you use a properly sized and sharpened drill bit with the area to be drilled taped over with painter's/masking tape, it would go alright. Just go slow.
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#3 (permalink) |
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VENDOR
Poster Extraordinaire
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Here's a Screen capture from an older post about those...might be of some Help ?
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Expert Repair....ReCrafting...and Set-ups Making your World a Better Place...One Guitar at a time ![]() Contact Info |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 1,261
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Yes, they are the Dunlop style. Right where the button would contact the body it flares out a bit, and I though it might be a good idea to file that down, though maybe that's just more work than is necessary.
One thing I was curious about was whether or not I should use some sort of wood putty to fill the remainder of the space left by the drilled cavity.
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"Everybody should be able to make some music - that's the cosmic dance!" - Maude |
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#5 (permalink) |
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TDPRI Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: ontario, canada
Age: 35
Posts: 33
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hey micpoc;
i have recessed the strap locks on all of the guitars i have built so far. in that instance, i do all of my machining before the finish. when i recess the locks for someone else, on an already finished guitar, i start with a drill bit about 1/2 the size of the finished hole and work up to the final size. it takes a couple of extra minutes, but the chance of chipping the finish is much less. i undersize the hole slightly, so i get a nice tight "push fit". try to drill the holes only as deep as need be. if they are drilled too deep, a piece of dowel glued in the bottom of the hole will work better than wood filler. this really cleans up the appearance of a guitar. make sure all your bits are SHARP.
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"A man is accepted into church for what he believes--and turned out for what he knows." - Mark Twain |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 1,261
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Thanks for the assists, guys. The strap locks I have don't look exactly like those posted by Mellecaster; like I said, they flare out a bit on the body end, like here:
Perhaps my idea of filing the buttons down would be a good move after all?
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"Everybody should be able to make some music - that's the cosmic dance!" - Maude |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: DC Metro
Posts: 390
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Ditto on the above if you want to do the full recess.
Hamer uses the larger Dunlop buttons above, and recesses them a bit, but not completely. They do a small rout and add a rubber gasket as a "shock absorber" in there. It gives it a slightly lower profile than if it was just surface mounted, but also gives you the bigger button, which is easier to grab on to when changing straps. |
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