router advice

[joedrII]

This router is sitting in my garage. Is this okay for building tele bodies?

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...09589-353-1825

[ievans]

Originally Posted by joedrII

This router is sitting in my garage. Is this okay for building tele bodies?

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...09589-353-1825

Definitely. Add a couple carbide-tipped bits, including a flush-trim pattern bit, and you're in business.

The common wisdom if you've not used a router before is to get or build a router table for it. Less chance of flinging the body blank across the room if it catches....

Another bit of common wisdom here: go cheap on the materials at first. Poplar or pine are good first-build woods because they're easy to work with, commonly available, and inexpensive. Better to make a mistake on something that's $5 a board foot than that slab of tight-grained Honduran mahogany that you're been coveting for years.

[Mojotron]

Yep - what ievans said.

Get a pattern bit and a piece of 1.5" or 2" MDF molding for a straight edge and practice on some lumber if you are not experienced with patterns.

If you go through the exercise of making your own template from the template drawings on this forum, then you will likely develop a good feel for the angles and how to cut them safely in hardwood; it will likely make the your first attempt a winner too.

[guitarbuilder]

Yes, and search the router threads for lots of good information. This topic gets a lot of discussion.

[Rob DiStefano]

a fixed router will work just fine, albeit slower than a plunge router. i have the same fixed base skil router for my router table. i also have an ancient craftsman fixed base router for rounding over amp and speaker cab edges. for guitar body routing, i only use plunge routers - an ancient skil that's done yeoman routing on 100's of guitars, and a killer bosch that's a joy to use.

you'll need a set of master tele templates (ron kirn), then carefully make up a set of 1/2" or 3/4" mdf slave templates. i prefer the 1/2" mdf - it's easier to work with, cheaper, and easier to use with small depth router bits (read on). one quick note - routing mdf produces a HUGE amount of super fine dust, unlike routing real wood! be aware! wear a mask and eye goggles!

imho, using a shallow 3/8" or 1/2" deep carbide top bearing bit makes starting the first routing cuts so much easier. also get a 1" deep carbide top bearing bit, and a 1/2" to 1" deep bottom bearing carbide bit. these bits are for routing out the body, neck pocket, pup and control cavities. a 1/8" or 1/4" roundover carbide bottom bearing bit does the edge rounding. if you don't have a drill press you can get by with hand drilling the neck, bridge mount and string thru holes - though it will take a deep throat drill press for all the bridge drilling.

have fun!

[BadHorsie]

Is twelve inch throat drill press enough Rob.

[ievans]

Originally Posted by BadHorsie

Is twelve inch throat drill press enough Rob.

Yes. The sting-through holes are about 5.5 inches from the bottom, so you'll need at least a 12" drill press.

[Rob DiStefano]

make sure you're measuring the drill press 'throat', or maximum distance from the drill bit to the drill's vertical column - most drill presses are measured as 'swing', which is half the rated distance. i.e., a 12" swing drill press really only has a 6" throat. my grizzly drill press has a 34" swing, for a full 17" throat.

[joedrII]

Thanks for all the information guys. I have the Ron Kirn templates, I just have little experience with routers.

[Al Watsky]

festool.com

[hackworth1]

Gospel: Do not attempt to use those 1/4 inch master templates with a router and bearing guided bit. You need to make a half inck thick template. As Rob said, MDF is the best material for slave templates.