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| Tele Home Depot Building a T-Style guitar? From scratch or from parts. This is the forum for you. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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NEW MEMBER!
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 9
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Putting nut on ALLPARTS NECK questions
I have a couple all parts tele necks and am finding that the nut slot is narrower than the nuts I have. Is it best to just sand down the nuts? Or remove wood from the neck to widen the slot?
I have had one nut break by the 4th string slot, I'm thinking due to being weakened by being sanded to be narrower. If one removes wood, it should be removed from the headstock side ? Doing so from the neck side will permanently mess with the scale length and intonation-correct? |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 403
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How wide is the nut? How wide is the slot? If the nut is too wide to begin with, I would sand down. However, if the slot is unnecessarily narrow, I would fix the slot. Depending on how close they are, it might not matter which method you choose.
You are correct in assuming that, should wood removal be necessary, you should remove wood from the headstock side of the nut slot. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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TDPRI Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: .
Posts: 33
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Do allparts nuts fit their necks? I will probably get a precut nut with a neck for the purposes of pre-finish setup / routing / drilling. There isn't much detail about nut dimensions (other than width).
Will BN-0206-000 - Slotted Bone Nut fit "perfectly" into one of their TMO - Replacement Neck for Telecaster? Unfortunately allparts do not have that much details on some of their parts. For example their machine heads diameters. Their necks tend to have 0.340" (11/32) tuner holes which AFAIK are vintage size, however they don't have diameters for some of the various tuners they sell. Does anyone have any experience with which allparts-sold tuners fit well into allparts necks? Particularly Gotoh 6-in-line Vintage Keys - are they 11/32 or the same as the other Gotohs (13/32 & 11/32) [- measurements from Warmoth not allparts], although looking at the diagram for the Vintage Gotohs it seems they are straight ie 8.8 / 0.340 / 11/32" ? I wish there was more standardization and less switching between millimeters, inches (decimal) & inches (fractions). Thanks. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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VENDOR
Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Hamilton County
Age: 39
Posts: 1,068
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Again, You want to have a Bone nut that is custom fit to "your" neck and body......From the nut down the finger board to the bridge.........Get the nut work and fret work setup to your playing style and getting the setup right.......Thats the key to a great guitar.....Never gonna get there with a "one size fit all" nut..........
Lots of little details in setup stage of a guitar.......always learning and taking notes. Find a good tech. and soak it up.
__________________
![]() Jeffro' at Southern Ill Electrics 618-643-2406/618-308-0223 God Bless Les and Leo. |
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#11 (permalink) | ||
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TDPRI Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: .
Posts: 33
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Quote:
Quote:
Perhaps you were replying to the OP, if so apologies. |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Tele-Holic
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 538
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AllParts necks have been great, but I do find that (or so it would seem) their measurements are metric, and I think this is also the case with the nut slots. I found out about the tuner hole spacing when I built my Tele. I used Fender F-tuners, which are a critical fit, and I had to trim the cases a hair to fit side-by-side. Klusons fit perfectly because of their more forgiving mounting pattern. So my guess is that the nut slot is an even 3mm, make is a couple of 1000th's narrower than a true 1/8" slot and nut.
__________________
John R. Frondelli |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Maryland
Age: 58
Posts: 1,961
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You can save a few bucks here:
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tuners/G...6-In-Line.html My Gotoh Kluson copies were a pretty good but not perfect match for the peg head holes in my Allparts TMNF-V. The bushings were an interference fit, so I reamed the holes slightly to eliminate the risk of splitting the headstock. I used the Tusc nut (#4750) here: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Nuts,_sa...Tusq_Nuts.html That needed some sanding all around, but it worked. The radius is correct, as is the string spacing. The slot depth is not right. The slots have to be dressed after the nut is installed if you want optimum playability. Worth taking it to a pro IMO - Mellecaster did mine. Good luck, and welcome to TDPRI. |
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#16 (permalink) |
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VENDOR
Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Hamilton County
Age: 39
Posts: 1,068
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Yep. OP.....But same reason I won't do a whole lot to necks that I ship other than pretty up the frets after tint and/or clear coat........Best to do nut work at final setup. Lots of things come into play at this stage.
__________________
![]() Jeffro' at Southern Ill Electrics 618-643-2406/618-308-0223 God Bless Les and Leo. |
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#18 (permalink) |
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NEW MEMBER!
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 9
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I just mention that I have tried putting notches on feeler guages and the cheap welding files sold as nut files on ebay.
I have some of the stew mac tusq nuts with the little tab on the bottom and a (I think) 7.25" radius. I sanded the nut (on the headstock side) to fit the slot, and filed off the tab on the bottom so the nut fits the radius of the neck slot, and used the appropriate stew mac files for the first three slots and a combo of the largest stew mac file and the other files to bring the 3 fat string slots down where they need to be. I used a feeler guage and eye to judge the cut depth on the slots. Success! The intonation needs to be fine tuned and probably the string height as well, and I'm going to wait to glue the nut in. I spent about the same on tools as having a shop do it, and now I know how, so when the body and parts that are coming I'm good to go. Thanks, for all the advice. If it was only one nut, and I didnt know I was going to need it done again real soon, I might have just taken the guitar in to the tech. But, this stuff is rocket science--I have taught myself to do setups, plenty of pickup changes and wiring, and built several amp kits, and trouble shot and repaired my old amps--if one is careful, studies up, has close to the correct tools, it can be done. Next up: does any one have experience with doing their own fret levels? What is the consensus--is this best left to the pros? Or doable with a reasonable investment in tools and time? |
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#20 (permalink) |
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Tele-Holic
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 538
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FWIW- it is quite normal to have to "massage" nuts (oh baby!
I constantly tell people that none of this is rocket-science, but you need to acquire the touch, the knowledge of what you are doing and why, as well as the proper tools. All of these factors combine to create good, repeatable results.
__________________
John R. Frondelli |
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#21 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Maryland
Age: 58
Posts: 1,961
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Quote:
I used an old 18" level as the backing for the abrasive, some 600 grit aluminum oxide paper, and some spray adhesive. A sharpy to color the frets (you grind until you can see a silver line on every fret). I used this to crown the frets: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting...Fret_File.html Color the frets again so you can gauge your progress. You can do it. Here's some info: Ron Kirn sells an inexpensive pamphlet on set-up that's worth its weight in gold. Contact through his web site: http://www.ronkirn.com/ Strongly recommended. Rob Distefano's web site has a short how-to-do-it under INFO from his home page: http://www.frettech.com/ His technique for creating fall-away in the upper frets is really easy. |
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