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Tele Home Depot Building a T-Style guitar? From scratch or from parts. This is the forum for you.

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Old November 1st, 2009, 10:26 PM   #1 (permalink)
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The Baritone Tele Build

I was in the studio a while back when the producer said "play something low". I instantly identified with his mindset. Thoughts of Glen Campbell's "Wichita Lineman" came to mind. We recorded my Tele solo and he dropped it in pitch by an octave with one of those fancy computer plug-ins. He added vibrato and coolness emerged. I was driving home and thought to myself...Why don't I have a Baritone Tele? What have I been thinking? I have many guitars to bring variety to a recording project, but never a baritone.

I went to Warmoth website and ordered the BTN232.

It's a 28-5/8" scale maple neck with a rosewood fingerboard.

It appears now, Warmoth only has the BTN254 as a rosewood (non-birdseye) offering.

I planned on the body color to be something i don't already have. Can you believe I don't have a RED Tele? I didn't want to put the time and effort into finishing a body, so I bought a MIM Candy Apple Red body off eBait.




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Old November 1st, 2009, 10:37 PM   #2 (permalink)
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The first item is the nut. I measured the nut slot thickness.



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But I found the treble side to be larger.



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I was puzzled but that. How could it be made that way and why? So I continued to mess with the nut.

Here is the nut width.


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Old November 1st, 2009, 10:43 PM   #3 (permalink)
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The Stewmac 10" radius shaped White Bone Nut is perfect. I have already cut it to length here.


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I checked the radius. It doesn't rock and there is no light visible in under the nut.


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Old November 1st, 2009, 10:49 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I sand the nut on sandpaper laid on a flat surface. I measure and check fit the nut in the slot after a bit of sanding.


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It turns out, the treble side being larger allows the nut to slide in from the treble side and be very tight on the bass side. Please let me know if any of you think Warmoth did this as a feature.


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Old November 1st, 2009, 10:58 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I use a carpenter's pencil refill lead to mark a reference line on the nut. I file a diagonal so the line drawn will be the same height as the frets.


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This gives me an idea as to how high to trim the top of the nut and file the slots.
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Old November 1st, 2009, 11:04 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Some of you may have seen my TDPRI article "Going Nuts Over Nuts". I use an Excel spreadsheet to calculate centerlines of string spacing for nuts so a scaled page can be printed. This template is glued to the top of the nut with Elmers glue. It gives sharp precise lines to start the nut slots. Here is the template applied.


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The slotting begins with the Stewmac 0.010" fret file.

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Old November 1st, 2009, 11:06 PM   #7 (permalink)
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This is a hhgmmmm (speaking in a baritone voice) great project Terry

I had a chance to play a Baritone National last summer.
It just stood out proud in the mix.
You'll be loaded for bear when this project gets done.

I'm with you
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Old November 1st, 2009, 11:09 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Terry!

Don't leave us hanging!

That is a fine neck.

I once upon a time found an Allparts maple-boarded baritone neck.
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Old November 1st, 2009, 11:16 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Here is the decal paper. I sprayed 4 coats of acrylic (Krylon Clear Coat), starting with very light mist coats.


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The decal applied.


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Old November 1st, 2009, 11:21 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Groovey Records View Post
This is a hhgmmmm (speaking in a baritone voice) great project Terry

I had a chance to play a Baritone National last summer.
It just stood out proud in the mix.
You'll be loaded for bear when this project gets done.

I'm with you
Thanks Groovey!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckocaster51 View Post
Terry!

Don't leave us hanging!

That is a fine neck.

I once upon a time found an Allparts maple-boarded baritone neck.
Thanks Bucko. After dealing with finish on frets in maple and doing refrets, I drifted away for the maple fingerboards that I love the looks of so much.
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Old November 1st, 2009, 11:27 PM   #11 (permalink)
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The neck with the rosewood fingerboard masked for shooting the clear coats.

HI RES

Here is the headstock with about 30 coats of polyurethane applied.


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Old November 1st, 2009, 11:33 PM   #12 (permalink)
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The poly has dried for a week and I wet sanded the face of the headstock to reduce the decal outline by a mil or so.


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5 additional coats are added and allowed to dry for a week.
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Last edited by tdowns; November 2nd, 2009 at 01:00 AM.
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Old November 1st, 2009, 11:40 PM   #13 (permalink)
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wow, nice logo, what text did you use for the "BARICASTER" if you don't mind me asking?
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Old November 1st, 2009, 11:45 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joefaity View Post
wow, nice logo, what text did you use for the "BARICASTER" if you don't mind me asking?
It's
HelveticaNeue LT 67 MdCn
24 points and expanded by 1.4 points. No kerning.

The Downs part is:
Fender Font
Fill is Red = 204 Green = 153 Blue=0
Outline = black 1.5pt
Height = 0.49"
Width = 1.66"
Fill transparency = 0%
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Old November 1st, 2009, 11:50 PM   #15 (permalink)
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There is lots of work to do on shielding. Here is the control cavity shielded with self adhesive copper tape. Notice thin strips connect the cavity shielding to spots where the control plate screws mount.


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Old November 2nd, 2009, 12:01 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdowns View Post
It's
HelveticaNeue LT 67 MdCn
24 points and expanded by 1.4 points. No kerning.

The Downs part is:
Fender Font
Fill is Red = 204 Green = 153 Blue=0
Outline = black 1.5pt
Height = 0.49"
Width = 1.66"
Fill transparency = 0%
Sweet, thanks!
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Old November 2nd, 2009, 12:06 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Here's how I shield the jack hole. Curl some of the copper tape into a form with a smaller radius than the jack hole and insert it into the hole.


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Here's how it looks inside the cavity.


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Outside the jack hole

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Using a screwdriver to conform the tape to the radius of the hole.


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Last edited by tdowns; November 2nd, 2009 at 01:15 AM. Reason: typo
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Old November 2nd, 2009, 12:07 AM   #18 (permalink)
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The trimmed and finished shielding. It takes another piece around the top.

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Old November 2nd, 2009, 12:16 AM   #19 (permalink)
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If that is a standard Tele body, does the bridge work out at the right distance from the nut for a baritone neck?
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Old November 2nd, 2009, 12:22 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
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If that is a standard Tele body, does the bridge work out at the right distance from the nut for a baritone neck?
Yes. The neck dimensions take care of that. Good question. Believe me, I researched that before I got started. It would be terrible to have bridge that would become "out of range".
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