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| Tele Home Depot Building a T-Style guitar? From scratch or from parts. This is the forum for you. |
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#41 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Chicago
Posts: 456
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Hey Gil -
Quick question. Judging from the image you posted of your spec sheet, it looks like you were able to get some pretty detailed measurements, etc. Have you been able to track one of the originals down? The most I've ever seen on here has been a single picture. |
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#42 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Germany
Posts: 1,833
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I'm working on a two-pickup Esquire myself and it's nice to see you go ahead first with the project. ;-)
Since probably noone on this board has had a chance to inspect/play one of those guitars (the only one I know of sits in a museum in California) here's a couple of things I picked up over the years: A) The very first pine prototypes had bodies that were made out of multiple pieces that were not only glued together to make the blanks wide enough but also to make em thick enough. I once read/heard that it was 6 pieces of pine that made up the bodies. B) The body was then finished with acrylic lacquer not nitro. C) The headstocks were a tad bigger/larger on those prototypes. Can you confirm any of this, Gil? Anyways...great build as usual. IMHO the very first black two-pickup Esquire is one of the most iconic guitars ever... Really looking forward seeing this one getting done! Cheers, Sascha
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Casper: "Mmmmm. Butterscotch, yo. That's the best!" From the movie Kids |
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#43 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Germany
Posts: 1,833
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Quote:
Most of the non-truss-rod necks that were made warped and were changed out at the factory for one with a truss rod. That's why so few of those non-truss-rod Esquires are still around. You see a hand-chiseled truss-rod-access on quite a few 1950 bodies and it makes you wonder how many of those started their life as a two-pickup Esquire instead of a Broadcaster. I really like quartersawn necks for their strength and really like the sound...and I wonder how it would have been if Leo would have used QS maple from the beginning?!? Maybe the truss rod would have made their way into Teles & Strats at a much later point in time?
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Casper: "Mmmmm. Butterscotch, yo. That's the best!" From the movie Kids |
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#45 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
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my afro ambient side project: http://www.myspace.com/theswyambusessions I play dancy bass here: http://www.myspace.com/casabellamusic |
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#46 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: the Netherlands (Yurp)
Age: 39
Posts: 1,041
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Quote:
Flatsawn i would'nt bother i think. Yours appears to flatsawn... Mine is flatsawn & butcherblocked to stay flat... it's Yellow pine too. I stained the pine with "rustins" Yellow pine dye and then applied some 5 coats of shellac sanding sealer with that same dye mixed in to darken it up some. When that dried, i glasspapered (320 grit) it flat then buffed it with bees/carnauba/parrafin oil mix til smoooooooooooooooth. Then applied some 7 coats of "orange" shellac (flakes+alcohol) with walnut oil for lube... Dries ab-so-lu-te-ly rockhard and has a great feel. I think that Yellow pine is the best sounding pine of all the pine species out there...it has some awesome deep end and nice separated mids & highs (for construction lumber) ;o) The tele in the video with your pickups in it is also yellowpine... I'm currently doing a heavy (like HEAVY) relic out of the light swampash body we discussed a while back. I think it's my last build in 'harder' wood. Pine i just love and have an abundance of it waiting to be built into guitars... Geluk vriend! cheers, |
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#47 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Israel
Age: 43
Posts: 1,791
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Quote:
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#48 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Israel
Age: 43
Posts: 1,791
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Thanks Sascha,
See my reply inline bellow... Quote:
Last edited by preeb; October 5th, 2009 at 03:51 PM. |
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#49 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Israel
Age: 43
Posts: 1,791
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Quote:
I know for a fact that the reason for truss rod installation was not warped necks... I never saw a black Esquire with a replaced neck either. All the nontrussrod ones I've seen had surprisingly healthy necks... but I guess I'll find out soon enough (-; |
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#51 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Israel
Age: 43
Posts: 1,791
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Quote:
Another thing is how QS maple looks... no figuring at all... looks like spruce (-; |
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#52 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Utah
Age: 33
Posts: 144
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Gil,
Do you ever have any issues with your robosander? I got one a few weeks ago. I've only used it a couple times, and the bearing keeps seizing up. Do you find yourself having to perform maintenance on it? I've taken it apart a couple times, just to have it seize again. |
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#53 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Israel
Age: 43
Posts: 1,791
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Due to the technical questions and debates... I wish to make clear:
I don't have all the information on this model. Some minor details are still needed but I'm still going ahead with this model. I'm doing some guess work based on other inspected prototypes from the same era (49-50) and I believe the details will be about the same for this black double Esquire... If you have any valuable info on this model I'll be forever gratefull (-; I spent a little time today as well on this build. I'm anxious to see how it sounds like... Tuner ferrule stepped holes on the front are drilled ![]() Neck transitions are roughly shaped by hand ![]() Neck is "softened" to final shape on the sander and finally by hand ![]() Transitions are smoothed
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#54 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Israel
Age: 43
Posts: 1,791
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Sideways fret installation stop bar in mounted to the table
![]() Frets are set in the jig like this ![]() and pressed in like that ![]() Note I'm using the 7.25" fixture on the 9.5"... it's just fine as long as the fixture is rounder than the board radius...
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#55 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Israel
Age: 43
Posts: 1,791
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If you ever played an early 50's Esquire then you know that what you see in the following shot is more than just fret beveling (-;
![]() Slanted edges (YEAH) that is... ![]() Fret installation is done
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#57 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Israel
Age: 43
Posts: 1,791
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1/16" white fiber sheet is used for the pickguard. It will be lacquered later.
![]() very slight roundover just to soften the edge a little ![]() Like that ![]() 1/8" straight mounting screw holes (yes...)
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#58 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Israel
Age: 43
Posts: 1,791
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A small countersink cut
![]() Note the size of those holes... I'm not sure it was exactly like that on this model so I used my original Broadcaster guard for reference... probably close enough.
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#60 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Germany
Posts: 1,833
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Quote:
I believe I read about it in Richard Smiths book "Fender: The Sound Heard Around the World" and/or in an ancient issue of Vintage Guitar Gallery. Both had pics of the black pine Esquire. I can look it up just to make sure. That's also where I read the bit about acrylic lacquer. I also said "prototype" because those first black pine Esquires were not really production line guitars but - as it was mentioned in the article - "test pieces" (horrible name, though) to make musicians aware of Fender and his revolutionary spanish guitar. FAIK the first production line guitars had blonde ash bodies and non-truss-rod necks... Could take me a little while but when I get to it I'll post what the article said about the pine Esquires...
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Casper: "Mmmmm. Butterscotch, yo. That's the best!" From the movie Kids |
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#61 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Israel
Age: 43
Posts: 1,791
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Quote:
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#62 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Israel
Age: 43
Posts: 1,791
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Quote:
Please post the info here if possible. It's interesting. |
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#63 (permalink) |
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TDPRI Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Portland, Maine
Age: 27
Posts: 13
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Gil - Ever thought about making the original esquire prototype with the single pickup and 3+3 headstock? I've always loved these and have never seen anyone make them (thought I am new to the board and have not searched).
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#72 (permalink) |
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NEW MEMBER!
Join Date: May 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 2
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Hey Gil...did u find a water jet cutter? i have just had templates made from 15 mm Ali they are really good.
Also wondered if you can give me advice on a the best drill bit to use for dot makers you seem to be using something else in this thread. I have tried brad points...they tear and are messy crude things and normal timber drill bits are not accurate enough....or should I add to my order of custom bits and cutter....great build again x
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Quicklucky&Plucky |
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#73 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Surrey Downs
Age: 53
Posts: 107
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Gil your work is simply amazing! I've saved pictures of tour last Tele build and it's great to see mand workmanship in the 21st. century. I especially like your neck/pocket joint., perfect. It's a pleasure to see someone pay such close attention to detail.
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#75 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Israel
Age: 43
Posts: 1,791
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Got up early today to spray 3 guitars... but it was stormy so my spraying plans (not for this Esquire) are postponed. I'll do the guts of the esquire instead...
Design plans are: Bridge PU - AL3 0.195" dia + AWG43 @ 9200 wounds, north, TC Neck PU - AL5 0.195" dia (Fullerton NOS) + AWG43 @ 8200 wounds, north, TC Original spec blend circuit + 15K Res + 0.05MFD PIO cap I'll start with beveling the magnets ![]() Like that ![]() On the neck PU the magnets are pressed in from the top down since the top needs to be 100% flush to prevent the magnets from touching the cover ![]() Like that... nice and flush with the top flatwork
Last edited by preeb; October 6th, 2009 at 10:47 AM. |
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#76 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Israel
Age: 43
Posts: 1,791
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On the bridge pu the magnets are pressed in from the bottom (normally) since the bottom has to be 100% flush to avoid contact with the elevator steel plate
![]() not a big issue as both ends end up 100% flush anyway... ![]() Bobbins are done. On those pu's you'll always find the beveled edge on the neck bottom and on the bridge top. ![]() What a storm... man... winter is at my gates... end of the Nitro happy summer period...(-;
Last edited by preeb; October 6th, 2009 at 09:42 AM. |
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#77 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Israel
Age: 43
Posts: 1,791
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Bobbins are dipped in nitro and left to dry for a while
![]() I'll do the period correct PIO cap as they dry... dipped once.. ![]() and twice... and it's done. You know it's done when it starts to look ugly... (-; ![]() Original Blend Circuit as found on early protos and Broadcasters... there's a 15K resistor in there... twisted through 4 holes in the selector switch... d__n...
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#78 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Israel
Age: 43
Posts: 1,791
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Cap is added
![]() some more wiring and the control is done as well ![]() I used new CTS pots and CRL switch... but if the guitar turns out killer... I'll replace them with NOS parts just like on all my PRM's. Last edited by preeb; October 6th, 2009 at 10:49 AM. |
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#79 (permalink) | ||
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Germany
Posts: 1,833
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Quote:
Quote:
You have had a chance to check out a black pine two-pickup Esquire??? Or just early Teles in general? If you did check out a pine Esquire did you take photos during the examination? I sure would love to see them and add them to my "collection" of Tele pics... BTW...an interesting detail that I forgot to mention: When I made my first Pine repro I was asking around and someone - I believe it was Nacho Banos if I'm not mistaken - told me that due to the slimmer thickness of the body the control cavity had a stepped rout to it. It was routed at the regular depth of 1.5'' where the the CRL switch would sit and not so deep underneath in the area underneath where the pots would sit. That was probably made to keep as much wood as possible between the control cavity rout and the back. Is that something you incorporated into your repro as well? FAIK Nacho is one of the select few that had the chance to check out one of those pine beauties...and I was always under the impression that there is only one black pine Esquire still "alive" today - at least all the pics that show one, show the same guitar.
__________________
Casper: "Mmmmm. Butterscotch, yo. That's the best!" From the movie Kids |
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#80 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Israel
Age: 43
Posts: 1,791
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I'll use only AWG 43 PE wire on this build. AWG42 was not used in early 1950 yet...
This is the reason for the hot (9.5K-12K) bridge pu's of the period... well... this and the lack of a winding machine counter... The AWG43 is thinner and therefore has a higher DCR per foot, so for the same number of wounds it will give a higher pu DCR. It doesn't mean it will be a hotter sounding PU of course... DCR hardly means anything here... The correct colored wire was selected ![]() Bobbins are cured. I'll cut the mandatory little V shaped notches on both pu's ![]() ![]()
Last edited by preeb; October 6th, 2009 at 11:04 AM. |
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