Who is using Bill Scheltema's neck radius jig???

[espike]

U could use this for a compound radius, but u would have to increase the vertical support to 16 inch long on one end, and 10 inch on the other side if u want to do a 16-10 radius like f.i. warmoth.
However, there are some rather nice jigs for compound radius fret boards

I do love this system btw, it would make a nice consistent neck profile on different guitars. (gonna build one myself i think)
One thing i am wondering though: I see several ppl here using a straight bit for this. Wouldn't a rounded bit be better to use? seeing it wouldn't cut as far in the wood, giving a smoother neck etc ?

[Canadianbreed]

I have gone to a dish carving type bit now. The straight bit does fine as long as you take small steps in the rotation, but you can still get a nice machined surface with minimal sanding.

Bill

[Shepherd]

Originally Posted by Mojotron

It's the contour from a very early telecaster - I'm not sure what it's called. It's really beefy - like .95" at the first fret to 1" at the 12th fret.

Are you using different pucks? Mine came out at around .85" and 1" and feels a little thin, almost like my LP.

[jrjr]

Seems the link to the dwg & dxf of the plans are gone.
Anyway of uploading those again?

thanks from a fellow CAD user

[Canadianbreed]

Hi everyone,

I thought I would share an update to the jig. Maybe youv'e already thought of this. If you like the "C" shape and want either a 1" or 7/8" thickness at the 1st fret but dont want to make alot of pucks, just slot the attachment holes to slide the puck up or down. it will keep the width consistent and give you variations. Since I am using 9 ply birch I can use the glue seems to set my new depths.

Bill

[joe desperado]

Great idea for quick change too.

J

[edd677]

This is cool and all, but I still dont understand why anyone would want to jig one of the most fun parts of building, carving the neck. If you are careful and take your time even the first time around you can get good results.

[joe desperado]

Originally Posted by edd677

This is cool and all, but I still dont understand why anyone would want to jig one of the most fun parts of building, carving the neck. If you are careful and take your time even the first time around you can get good results.

For repeatable results every time. For easy of coming up with new shapes..that are repeatable everytime. For making minor changes to a shape..that is repeatable everytime.

If you are only going to make one neck...nah carve it by hand.

[jkingma]

If I wanted all my necks to be the same I would make a jig. But I never make 2 guitars exactly the same and I'm not concerned about every neck being the same. Plus I really like shaping a neck with a rasp and I can rough one out in about the same amount of time as it might take to set up a blank in the jig. And with the jig you still have to do the end transitions by hand anyway.

It's a great idea, don't get me wrong. I've seen Bill's jig in person and it's a fantastic piece of work... as is his compound radius jig. I just like to make sawdust the old fashioned way as much as possible.

[joe desperado]

Originally Posted by jkingma

If I wanted all my necks to be the same I would make a jig. But I never make 2 guitars exactly the same and I'm not concerned about every neck being the same. Plus I really like shaping a neck with a rasp and I can rough one out in about the same amount of time as it might take to set up a blank in the jig. And with the jig you still have to do the end transitions by hand anyway.

It's a great idea, don't get me wrong. I've seen Bill's jig in person and it's a fantastic piece of work... as is his compound radius jig. I just like to make sawdust the old fashioned way as much as possible.

Don't disagree with you at all. It does not take the work out of the contour process at all. It just takes the "guess work" out of it. I use a modified version of his jig, but I move a lot of wood each week too.

J

[gagidlof]

I have shaped a few neck by hand and had good results. Its not hard and I still want to build this jig and give it a try.

I was wondering has anyone tried flipping the neck over in the jig, fingerboard side down with pucks to radius the finger board. It seems that the same principal would apply and you could mix pucks for say 9.5" and 12" to make a compound radius.

[Canadianbreed]

Hi guys,

I made this jig for consistency and speed. For me I am doing necks for customers with specifics and I get that with the jig. I may be supplying neck blkanks with all critical machining done and this will help me with production.
I am already getting many inquiries for custom necks.

As to flipping the neck over for fb. I thried it but unless you maintain the 9.5 and 12" radius it won't work. Your end plates would need to be 12"+ in height.

Bill

[Mojotron]

Originally Posted by joe desperado

Don't disagree with you at all. It does not take the work out of the contour process at all. It just takes the "guess work" out of it. I use a modified version of his jig, but I move a lot of wood each week too.

J

I don't make that many necks, but I want to be really precise to get a neck contour that is exactly like the ones I like the most. Also doing things like taking a forward puck that has a hard-V and a C shaped rear puck makes for some really awesome combos to play with. If someone is making necks and does not have a CNC machine - this is a way to get a very precise contour.

And, it's still fun

[gmcgann]

I've been trying to get this neck jig working right, and here's a question I haven't seen answered, probably because it's obvious and I'm just not seeing it. What thickness does the neck need to be in this jig? Bill's video shows it's thicker than 1 inch, but how much? It seems that this is critical, since the thicker it is the more wood gets removed from the back, and while the distance from the back of the neck to the router bit varies with the thickness, the distance from the side to the bit has to be a constant given that the neck width is a constant.

I've built two complete jigs and several sets of pucks, and while the countour is close I just can't seem to get the depth correct.

[Canadianbreed]

gmcgann,

Hi, my necks are about 1-1/16" thick, I have done necks that are 1-1/8 with no trouble.

I added the slots in the pucks to help with this, that way you don't need alot of pucks to get where you want.

Bill

[gmcgann]

Thanks for the reply. I'm going to build a new set of pucks tonight. I have a neck that I did by hand that's exactly the way I want it. I'm going to try mounting it in the jig and putting the end of a pencil in the router (with the router off, of course!) then play with the pucks until I can get the pencil marking even on the neck all the way around.

I guess with 1 1/16 necks you are making a one-piece neck? I'm trying to shape mine before installing the fingerboard, so they are 13/16. Do you think this will work or do I need to use a fingerboard-width spacer?

[Canadianbreed]

gmcgann,

Hi, I would use a filler piece myself to bring it to 1" at least.
When I do a 2pce neck it is already glued up.

Bill

[gmcgann]

I'll do that. One I get it right I could glue up the fretboard first, but I don't want to sacrifice one now if I make a mistake, which is likely. I do generally learn from my mistakes, I just make a lot of them while learning.

[tdale]

Originally Posted by Canadianbreed

Welcome to this wonderful forum.
You will find everything you need for building.

As to your questions

#1 I set the bit so the it takes about a quarter inch off the corner of the neck and raise it as I go.
#2 For a diff. shape you change out the puck. Depending on the thickness at the 1st and 12th fret you would adjust the size accordingly.
#3 The slot is there so that as the rotation takes place the puck can ride up and down as the shape dictates.

I do plan to do up new pucks based on warmoths neck profiles.

Hope this helps.

Bill

I've been thinking about the same thing...will the neck jump up and down, when the router bit bites into it. I might put on a spring on each bolt, to pull the pucks towards the base plate...

Tommy

[Canadianbreed]

Tdale.

As long as you dont take large amounts of material off you should be fine. I have never once had it jump on me.