Best filler for MDF templates

[Mojotron]

Perhaps this is not everyone's problem, but I find myself making copies of my master templates and then using/abusing copies - using the master to fix the copy when I need to fix a spot.

Generally the way I do this is to put wood filler on the MDF template - then re-rout that section of the template. Then, I cover it with a coat of poly to make it a little harder. My working copy of my tele neck template looks pretty rough and I have not even finished a neck yet, however - the working copy is still as good as the master, but the filler I have used seems kind of wimpy in spots.

I've used a few different kinds of wood filler - lately min-wax with mixed results. Anyone use something else for filling holes in MDF that is tough and will sand/route flat easily without damaging the template and/or shrinking?

Thanks,
Mike

[Lostheart]

I've always used super-glue when a boo-boo happened. It's a fast fix.

[Nick JD]

I use kneadable epoxy putty. It's great - like cookie dough - you just slice off a chunk and knead it until the colour's uniform and squeeze it in the MDF like you're hiding gum under a table.

You can even get a glass-reinforced version that's hard like aluminium. Sticks to everything except polyethylene and teflon.

[Shepherd]

You can patch the Titanic with this stuff.

[scubadoo]

I just use regular car filler, but in a tube so you can use a little bit at a time and it stays fresh. The stuff i use is 3M Acryl Red Putty. It dries fairly quickly and is easily sandable/routable.

[muttley]

Car body filler every time. I use Isopon p38 because it goes off in minutes sets hard and cleans up great. Its also very forgiving in the mix ratio if you need to mix up small amounts.

For critical surfaces or mating joints I use dental moulding compound but that stuff is pricey.

[Jazzmeister]

I've had good luck with regular 6min epoxy gel. I just mound it up in the area I need to repair, It routs away nicely. Some other good ideas mentioned, though!

[Jack Wells]

I use Plastic Wood for patching my mistakes. It's solvent based so it sets up quickly. I recommend buying it in the tubes rather than the cans. You're usually using only a small amount and in the tubes it can be stored longer without getting hard.

......

[mlp-mx6]

I've used 5-minute (Quick cure) epoxy in the past. I build a dam with tape (doesn't stick to the epoxy), let the epoxy thicken a bit, then pour it into the boo boo. Sets up quickly and routs off quite easily. Stinks, though.

[Colt W. Knight]

I think the easiest and cleanest solution is a two part epoxy like Nick suggested.

[Mojotron]

Thanks every one - I will give these a whirl and see what sticks..

Thanks again,
Mike

[fishtownmike]

Originally Posted by Shepherd

You can patch the Titanic with this stuff.

I just mentioned this stuff in another post. Its some great stuff. As for templates i don't use mdf or similar stuff since its soft and wears easy and dents easy. I prefer birch plywood. If theres any voids after making use putty or body filler to fill.

[Mojotron]

Originally Posted by fishtownmike

I just mentioned this stuff in another post. Its some great stuff. As for templates i don't use mdf or similar stuff since its soft and wears easy and dents easy. I prefer birch plywood. If theres any voids after making use putty or body filler to fill.

I've run into some really shotty birch plywood at both Lowes and HD in the last couple of months - are you talking about the birch plywood made in Europe? That looks like some good stuff - also highly rated in Bill Hylton's books on routing.

[mgdesigns]

I was at the Guild Custom Shop (Fender Nashville) a few days ago, and they made their permanent templates from melamine covered 1/2" birch plywood. I guess the melamine covering makes for a slicker surface for the tracing router and sliding around, and the dense plywood lasts longer. What a great facility. They had a wall full of cubby holes with replacement necks in each one. They were making a beautiful Koa wood hollow body archtop acoustic.

[Mojotron]

Originally Posted by mgdesigns

I was at the Guild Custom Shop (Fender Nashville) a few days ago, and they made their permanent templates from melamine covered 1/2" birch plywood. I guess the melamine covering makes for a slicker surface for the tracing router and sliding around, and the dense plywood lasts longer. What a great facility. They had a wall full of cubby holes with replacement necks in each one. They were making a beautiful Koa wood hollow body archtop acoustic.

Yep - I've seen what looks like 9 or 10 ply for like $70 a sheet at a wood working store. I thought it was expensive until I started working with the 5 ply cheap stuff - which just seems to be too much work to fill and sand to get right.

For the routing work I do - generally with a pattern bit with a 1/4" collet - MDF seems to work great - but when I get to the point where I have really good templates I'll try transffering these to good plywood.