Blackguard Telecaster Build - Parts List

[Motor]

Hi Guys,

I have been lurking on this board for awhile and have learned a lot from the experts here. I am about to
start purchasing parts for my first telecaster build. I would greatly appreciate a critique of my parts list below. Any and all comments welcome.

Once I start building, I will post pictures here. I'm sure I will have lots of questions.

Cheers,
Motor

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$509

Neck Specs: USA Custom Guitars neck. Heel adjust, 21 frets, 1-piece maple, heel adjust, 21 frets, 1.650" nut width, .830" c contour, .070" taper, 7.25-9.5" compound radius, 6105 frets, kluson, standard black dots, rolled edges, drill neck mounting holes. Vintage amber finish.

Body Specs: USA Custom Guitars. T style, top rout, 1 piece swamp ash, 3lb 11oz, 7/8" jack, standard T bridge, Pickups (N-M-B): T Neck--T Bridge. I like the copal color that is displayed on several guitars on the Rice Custom Guitars Web site.

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$255 - (cost of supplies + protective equipment)

$7 - naptha
$7 - denatured alcohol
$10 - Bartley's light grain filler
$1 - erasers (wet sanding block)
$ 5 - tack rag
$8 - 2@ canned air
$15 - Behlen jet spray maple (includes shipping)
$7 - aniline alcohol based walnut dye
$10 - Zinnser amber shellac
$16 - 2@ cans Zinnser sanding sealer
$25 - 4@ cans of Deft clear gloss nitro
$5 - preval spray gun
$3 - extra preval canister
$30 - sand paper
$20 - organic vapor mask
$10 - buffing wheel kit
$10 - dremel kit
$10 - miniature file kit
$16 - 2 inch roll copper conductive tape
$40 - miscellaneous items


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$55 Guitar Parts Resource (49 + 6 shipping)

Tuners:

$49 - Gotoh Kluson staggered - 6 inline vintage chrome
[Edit: Injun Joe ecommended that I get the staggered Gotoh Klusons so no string tree is needed.]

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Pickups

$215 - Don Mare

Can't decide between the following:
4709 Joel Foy set
Bakersfield set (6.6k bridge)
Green Onions set
Custom - Don recommended 6.1k neck with silver nickel cover, and 7.0k bridge [Edit: consensus on this board steers me toward this set or the Bakersfield] [Edit 2: I placed an order for the 6.1k/7.0k custom set]
Super Sport T set

I'm going for classic country twang (ie, Don Rich) with the ability to rock out a bit (ie, Bruce Springsteen). I do a lot of palm muting staccato notes, and mostly play rhythm guitar in a band setting. Warm twang is good, ice pick is bad. This guitar is for live playing in small to medium clubs and must sound good loud. I am nervous because I've never heard or played these sets, and Don told me he no longer plays his pickups over the phone for customers. I prefer to err on the twangy side. I may get them slightly waxed for a little bit of microphonics. Any recommendations appreciated. (My setup is a Gries 35 amp = vibrolux boutique clone, Keeley compressor, Fulldrive 2 overdrive, Lava ELC cables)

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$155 Glendale

$55 - saddles (The Twang set (aka Redd Volkaert) - 2 brass, 1 aluminum)
$100 - blackguard cold rolled steel magnetic double cut bridge [Edit: thanks to newtanger for pointing out that I should buy the double cut, he saved me some unhappiness because I like to palm mute]
xx - control plate [Edit: Old Cane advises that I get the Callaham, comes with knobs)
xx - jack cup - vintage style chrome [Edit: Old Cane says get the electrosocket one instead]

Question: Should I go with the Glendale control plate? Callaham control plate? Other? I know very little about electronics, pots, paper in oil caps, cloth covered wires, etc. I have a soldering iron, but I'm a novice and to date have only installed one banjo pickup.

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$406.75 - Callaham (381.75 + 25 shipping - ask them to put stuff in the case to save on shipping)

$140 - G&G tweed case with red poodle lining
$45 - pickguard - T Model Black Fiberboard Bakelite 1-ply
$96 - Pre-wired T Model Control Plate Assembly - modern 3 way wiring, Early 50's broadcaster dome knobs, slotted screws
$12 - Electrosocket jack cup (ask for slotted screws)
$11.25 - slotted head stainless steel screw kit
$21 - ferrules (traditional style)
$35 - high luster neck plate (custom number = 1958)
$15 - strap buttons (slotted screw)
$2.50 - Switchcraft pre-wired input jack with washer and nut
$2 - White cloth wire (2 feet)
$2 - Black cloth wire (2 feet)


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Setup:

Approximately $200 for the following professional setup at Twelfth Fret in Portland Oregon:

- Bone nut (cut, filed for 10's, installed)
- Fret dress (they recommended it with the USA Custom guitars neck, although they would skip it if it didn't need it)
- Strobe tune
- Intonation
- Setup

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Sub Totals:

$ 509 - USA Custom Guitars Body / Neck
$124 - Finish / Supplies (actually used)
$131 - Finish / Supplies (left over)
$ 255 - Finish and Supplies
$ 55 - Gotoh Kluson Staggered Tuners
$ 215 - Don Mare Pickups
$ 155 - Glendale Bridge / Saddles
$ 407 - Callaham Miscellaneous Parts / Case
$200 - bone nut and setup

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$1500 = Guitar Total
$131 = Left over supplies and tools (stuff I can use on next build)
$165 = Case

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$1796 = Grand Total

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[Motor]

Hi Guys,

Does it look like I'm on the right track with this parts list then?

Cheers,
Motor

[twangcaster1]

Yep. Looks like you don't need lots of advised when it comes to parts selection.

[Old Cane]

A couple of things.....

If you are going to pay for stew mac rattle cans go ahead and get reranch instead. better color selection. If you compare reranch to krylon it's very expensive but compared to stew mac it's not.

Get the callaham control plate since you want it prewired. It comes with knobs, the glendale doesn't. Or get a Fender plate and do it yourself. I don't care much about caps but always seem to use paper in oil. I'd also have Bill do you a special serial number on the neck plate if you want.

I'd use an electrosocket instead of that 30 dollar cup. He has some seconds i think for $20 if you want those.


You got a great list. Looks like mine. Good stuff. You won't go wrong with mare, callaham and/or glendale.....ever.

Your 4th post is required to include pictures even if it's just one part at a time.

[mikem]

looks like you did your homework! sounds close to mine. i have lollar pups and a nitro finish by guitar mill tho...see pics here:

http://s68.photobucket.com/albums/i1...er/telecaster/

i finished mine a little over a year ago...i spent a year collecting parts...it makes it special! i'm itching to make a '55 esquire white blonde whiteguard now!

and yes, POST PICTURES!

have fun!

[ehawley]

Looks good to me...The vintage jack cups look neat...the pressed metal cups where used from 53 on. If you are going for a "period correct" style then by all means go with either of those. The pressed cups are cheaper though.

[Motor]

Thanks guys. Now I just need to start placing some orders. I will post pics as stuff arrives.

Cheers,
Motor

[newtwanger]

Awesome list of quality parts!

Only change I'd recommend since you say you palm mute alot is that I'd go the Glendale double cut instead of single. I'm regretting going with the Bardens single cut because of that.

remember photos asap.

[Motor]

I saw this beautiful body on Web specials section of the USA Custom Guitars Web site last night so I snatched it up at 7:58am this morning.

I have no idea why no one grabbed it yet, but it is exactly what I was looking for (unique grain pattern, less than 4 lbs, and 1 piece swamp ash). Tommy told me that it was lucky I called early, because he would be getting phone calls all day about this one. It's still listed on his site as body number 3.

After much research and helpful input from you all, I am going to go with:
- 1 lb cut shellac sanding sealer
- Bartley's light grain filler (thinned down a bit so it's easier to apply)
- 2 1/2 lb cut dark amber shellac (sprayed through a Pre Val unit?)
- Deft nitro gloss rattle cans

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Body: T style, top rout, 1 piece swamp ash, 3lb 11oz, 7/8" jack, standard T bridge, Pickups (N-M-B): T Neck--T Bridge

Neck: Heel adjust, 21 frets, 1-piece maple, heel adjust, 21 frets, 1.650" nut width, .830" c contour, 7.25-9.5" compound radius, 6105 frets, kluson, standard black dots, rolled edges, drill neck mounting holes.

Grand total for the neck and body = $509. Should arrive in 2 weeks.

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[boris bubbanov]

It is a beaut, and that's lighter than any of my one piece ashes.

May I suggest practicing on scrap with the grain filler? If you can't find cheap ash, oak will be close enough to work on technique.

Oh, BTW. I just looked at my half pint of Bartley's "Light" and it says "for oak.....
mahogany". Doesn't say ash. You may find the "Light" is too dark for your use. Check and see if you can get a Bartley's clear; I think such a thing exists, I've been meaning to re-check. I use this Bartley's Light on Mahogany and Walnut, and for the moment Pore-O-Pac for ash, altho I am not 100 percent happy with the Pore-O-Pac.

Now that you have lined up such a beautiful body, you might use a clear shellac until you get a full idea of the body's appearance with finish. You can add in the tone, whether Behlen's Jet Spray or Stew Mac, later as opposed to using a dark shellac early on.

[ajgus]

Now that is a good looking piece of wood! Can't wait to see how this one turns out. Best of luck!

[Motor]

Boris,

Thanks for the help. I found an old thread where you recommended:

Behlen Jet Spray to taste --- maple, item number 851-141

I believe this is your photo:
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...N102008001.jpg

Questions:

- How many coats of maple jet spray did you use on the neck in that photo?
- Would I spray the same color jet spray on the body and the neck? How many coats on each?

[boris bubbanov]

Yeah, that's my Fat Squier Tele with a neck exchanged from a Squier 51.

What I do is get a smooth level series of passes accumulated in Deft gloss clear over the existing stock finish, then I gently overspray or spritz the tinted Behlen's in the general direction of the neck. The idea is the tinted nitro hits the clear nitro as mist, incorporates in as mist, and never beads up or creates freckles like you likely would get shooting the tint directly onto a raw or poly or other non-nitro base. Even so, plenty of test spritzing to avoid spattering is recommended. It is much easier to get too much as opposed to too little. I can do at least 5-6 maple necks with one single can of Behlen's, while each neck requires most of a can of Deft depending on how lean you want the coating. Make sure you can lay a good bit of clear over the tint, so you don't have any blow through when you buff it down. Maybe 35 percent of the clear goes on before the tint, 65 percent after the tint is even. Less is more.

You can use a layer of clear Bullseye dewaxed rattle can shellac over the sanded USA CG neck, to act as a buffer between the CA glue holding in the frets, and the Deft clear nitro. Just the thinnest film is enough, IMO.

[Motor]

Thanks so much for the reply. I can visualize what you are saying and will make sure to practice on scrap. I'll look for the Bullseye dewaxed rattle can shellac.

Interesting warning posted here:
http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/ht...tleystains.htm

"The Natural Filler is formulated to dry translucent and fill the grain without adding any color. Under some finishes it may show as a whitish color so test it on darker woods like walnut and mahogany."

[boris bubbanov]

Originally Posted by Motor

Thanks so much for the reply. I can visualize what you are saying and will make sure to practice on scrap. I'll look for the Bullseye dewaxed rattle can shellac.

Interesting warning posted here:
http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/ht...tleystains.htm

"The Natural Filler is formulated to dry translucent and fill the grain without adding any color. Under some finishes it may show as a whitish color so test it on darker woods like walnut and mahogany."

Yes, I have some of this effect on a couple of Fender AV 52 FSR 60th Anniversary "Inlays" where the grain filler is a sort of a Mary Kay-ish translucent color against the natural ash color. I haven't had that issue on any of mine, as it seems the grain filler melts back into the pores when I put on more clear dewaxed shellac over top. I'm gonna do my next grain fills with even more reducer for better flow into the pores.

[Motor]

I'm taking notes. Listening to you, I can see this takes a lot of time to perfect the technique.

Looks like Bartley grain filler is available in pints as well as quarts. I wonder if a pint would be enough for 1 guitar?

http://www.bartleycollection.com/cat...roducts_id/141

[Motor]

My parts haven't arrived yet, but I've been thinking about this.

This is a bad photoshop job, but I'm thinking some dark walnut aniline alcohol based dye in the amber shellac will nicely darken up my 1/8 inch myrtlewood pickguard blank.

Then just amber shellac and nitro over the swamp ash body.

[newtwanger]

You are scaring me....

Or I'm just too "unadventurous"

That grain was put on earth for one of the vintage blond (blond, blonde, honey blond, butterscotch blond, white blonde...)

[Motor]

You may be right! Thanks for the comments.

[Motor]

If it looks too gaudy, I will use black bakelite on this one. The grain patterns might clash too much. We'll see.

Might need to put the myrtlewood one on a mary kaye white or a mohawk blonde body.

[ajgus]

Do yourself a huge favor. Throw a blonde finish on that (preferably White or Honey/Nocaster), slap a bakelite guard on it & call it a day. That grain was destined for a nice see-through vintage style finish.

[Motor]

ajgus and newtwanger,

What product would you recommend for a blonde finish? All the choices are driving me nuts. I have an unused pre-val unit.

I will test a few finishes on scraps of ash. Amber and blonde are top candidates.

[ajgus]

Well I've not used them personally, but I've seen great results on build threads. Reranch seems to be the prefered provider of guitar finishes. Click the links below for more info.

Butterscotch
http://reranchstore.stores.yahoo.net/butblon1.html

buttertelelgr1.jpg

Honeyish/White
http://reranchstore.stores.yahoo.net/butblon.html

blondetelelgr.jpg

*Disclaimer: I am not affiliated with Reranch. All photos are from & belong to Reranch.com

[Motor]

Thanks for the links.

I love that second color! I think that is the one I will do for my second build. This one is likely going to be amber clear.

[Motor]

UPS just brought me a nice surprise. Grain is nicer in person than I expected. Great craftsmanship, very tight neck pocket.

Only one little hole filled with putty (see photo). Possibly a knot. No one is going to notice it, and I can hit it with a wood touchup marker.

Newbie questions:

- To sand a small rough spot on the fretboard, do I use 0000 steel wool?

- How do I knock off the nubbin on the headstock and restore it to the correct Fender neck shape? Suggestions? I've got files and small hand saws. Is there a template I should use?

[newtwanger]

Originally Posted by ajgus

Well I've not used them personally, but I've seen great results on build threads. Reranch seems to be the prefered provider of guitar finishes.

Well I've used them and they are great. They are expensive and worth it. The clear is much better than the Watco Nitro I get at the hardware store (goes on smoother, hardens quicker, smells better).

You won't even notice the putty filled area once painted, so don't mess with it.

Fretboard sanding is done using very fine sandpaper (800+) wrapped around a soft eraser (well, that's how I was schooled at doing it.)

restore it to the correct Fender neck shape

Heheh, well to "restore" it would mean it was once that way... to Modify you can use sandpaper and a block of wood or an electric sander, not really enough to saw off is there? Be careful to sand perpendicular to the headstock face or you'll go too deep at the bottom. It's easy if you go slow, getting the nice edge radius is the hard part, as it's gonna be done freehand (unless some experienced guy like Boris or Jack rings in with helpful words.

Good luck, I'm impressed with your wood. (...well I don't mean it like that )

[Motor]

newtwanger,

I appreciate the tips on sanding the headstock. Will do. That is a gorgeous guitar! I saw that one in your photo gallery. Another newbie question, what does the third knob do?

[Motor]

I'll be the first to admit that I don't know a lot about telecasters other than I love the tone. My other guitar is a Gibson 335. This will be my first telecaster.

Random comment: I can't believe how light this thing is. It's light as a feather. When I tap the wood, it goes plonk plonk. Sounds nice and resonant.

All I ordered from Reranch so far is Bartley's light grain filler, some aniline dye, and some fine grain sand paper packs. It shipped Wednesday, so hopefully it will get here early next week.

I'm so excited I can't sleep at night!

[Motor]

I downloaded Nasteel's headstock template so I could tell what part of the bump to shave off.

I used a rubber sanding block and these grits: 120, 150, 220. Then I went over it with fine steel wool. It took less than 15 minutes start to finish.

I then rubbed a wet cloth over the body and neck, let it dry, then repeated the above process over the whole body to get the whiskers off. I only used the fine steel wool on the neck, as the maple has much tighter grain. I'll do this again tomorrow, but with 150, 220, 300 grit. Then I'll go 400 grit. Then I'll be ready to do the Bartley's grain filler. Let me know if that doesn't sound right.

After working with my head all day, it is such a pleasure to sand for an hour. It is a joy to learn every nook and cranny of the instrument that I hope to make great music with.


Here is the before bump removal pic:



Here is the after bump removal pic:

[Injun Joe]

Nice to see another motor guy on the site (Injun Joe = Engine Man, not Indian guy named Joe!)

Anyway, I've been using Gotohs STAGGERED Klusons and leaving off the string tree - the guit seems like it rings a bit more and the headstock is less cluttered. You can find 'em here: http://www.guitarpartsresource.com/t...nlinegotoh.htm

Your project looks great so far!

[Motor]

Thanks for the hint on the staggered Gotoh Klusons. I will get those. The little things really can add up. A light bulb went off when you posted that, and I realized that Dale at Glendale uses those on his beautiful necks. He doesn't need string trees either.

Thank you!

[Motor]

I ordered a can of Behlen 851-141 Maple Jet Spray today from Boris' source. They shipped it today.

I also got my Reranch order today. I'll post pics tonight. All of my prep work sanding is done (sanded to 400 grit, then fine steel wool).

First sealer coat goes on tonight.

Woohoo!

[Motor]

Here is my 100+ dollar pile of finishing supplies.

Clockwise from the left:
- Deft clear gloss nitro
- Mineral spirits (to cut the Bartley's)
- Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac (amber, for guitar body)
- Denatured alcohol (to cut the shellac)
- Canned air (to blow off dust)
- Zinsser dewaxed shellac sanding sealer
- NIOSH organic vapor mask
- Accordion file folder (thanks to ehawley for the idea, for sand paper)
- Pre Val sprayer and spare tank
- Bartley's light grain filler
- Walnut aniline dye (alcohol based, for the shellac)
- Erasers (to wrap fine grain wet sand paper around)
- Tack cloth (for dust)



I got my hanging boards drilled, and a single coat of dewaxed shellac sanding sealer on the neck and body today. The artifacts look green and mottled in this photo for some reason, so you will have to ignore it. Sorry guys, I really don't want to cover up this grain with blonde or butterscotch blonde. Unless something tragic happens in the next few coats, it's going to be amber clear for this body:

[Motor]

Note 1 to self: Wear eye protection: shellac sanding sealer hurts the eyes! Doh.

Note 2 to self: I don't mind looking stupid in public if it convinces another reticent newbie to try making his/her own tele. It's absolutely addicting. Thanks to all of the experts who have posted here to give newcomers the information to get started. Your generosity is very much appreciated.

[Motor]

More notes: There are a two or three scratches that I didn't see before because they had sawdust in them. Grrr. Oh well. Instant relic job. Also, I got some shellac streaking on a couple of the smaller frets, and on the back of the body. Will have to sand those out. Not sure when the best time to do it is? On the back of the body, I would assume I grain fill, then sand it out. On the fretboard, I'm assuming I sand it lightly before I put on the first nitro coat?

[Motor]

Notes: The second coat of dewaxed shellac sanding sealer is definitely darkening the neck. Looks great. Starting to yellow up. Will need to take that into account before I start spraying the Behlen Jet Maple tint.

[boris bubbanov]

If you have more grain filling to do, you still have time to sand out all those scratches you are finding. Later is never better, do it first chance when you see them. Use Ron Kirn's light tricks and hunt them down, get 'em now.

That Bartley's 'Light' you have is great for Mahogany. Or red Oak. Please test it for desirability on ash on some scrap. I've been using Pore-O-Pac, but I will buy some Bartley's 'Neutral' and just add small amount of Bartley's 'Light' to introduce a hint of color on the next batch of ash bodies.

[Motor]

Hi Boris,

I will definitely take your advice and test on a scrap of ash. Here is the effect I am hoping to achieve (light bartley's over shellac sanding sealer):

http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/ht...tleystains.htm

Thanks,
Motor

[Motor]

PS - I will take your advice and remove the scratches now.

Also, I was able to get the shellac runs out by using a rag soaked in denatured alcohol. Worked well.

[WildTele]

Wood finishing--on nay type of wood, requires great care and that means preparation. To help inspect surfaces, always wipe with Naphta--especially on bare wood to see where imperfections are before applying any sort of finish--saves a lot of grief later, and can also be done during the many stages of wet sanding before buffing out a finish.


A quality buffing compound at the finishing stage is from 3M (expensive) and can be bought from suppliers of auto parts (or directly from a good body shop who might agree to sell you less than a $40.00 bottle).

Never sand (wet or dry) with less than 3 coats of lacquer, and the longer you let lacquer dry the better--be patient--it pays dividends = rewarding end result! Apply 3 coats in the same day--or you may get ghosting lines after wet sanding--of course they disappear after spraying again, but when you're close to the end--frustrating as hell!

Allow for as few as 12 coats, and as many as 24 coats (especially if not using pro spray guns and a compressor). You need to be god or lucky to get away with only 12 coats! :)

Before buffing, try to get an even patina with a #1500 grit wet sandpaper, and be sure to soak the paper for a day before using it, and change the water often during the wet sanding process--which takes time--again be patient, and have wiping rags handy to keep inspecting as you go--don't sand too long in one place, and make sure you have a good build of lacquer before you try to get to this stage.

Work your way up to the #1500 grit--start with about #400, and go from there--eperience is the best teacher, so practice on a 12" square piece of scrap wood (even plywood) until you get the hang of it, then tackle the "beauty" you are working on!

There are a lot of books available today--read in the library if you can't afford to buy!

Web sites and forums are great, but there's more out there--read, test, read--finishing is the most talked about and difficult part of any type of woodworking.

Good luck!