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| Tele Home Depot Building a T-Style guitar? From scratch or from parts. This is the forum for you. |
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August 7th, 2008, 09:59 AM
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#161 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Afflicted
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Quote:
cheers ED PS I'm doing about 13,000 winds before I check. |
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August 7th, 2008, 10:39 AM
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#162 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Western PA
Posts: 1,589
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Quote:
Your build pics and design are an incredible thread ! I love see this craftsmanship. I've been in another tele builder's shop..Charlie McVay (the McVay bender guy who does all of Brad Paisley's bender installs) - his shop was spotless. Great guy and very friendly too ! Can't wait to see the finished guitar...beautiful work !
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http://www.twloha.com/vision/ - sometimes we need to listen and lend a hand |
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August 7th, 2008, 08:56 PM
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#163 (permalink) | |
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Friend of Leo's
Join Date: May 2007
Location: North NSW, Australia
Age: 37
Posts: 4,852
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Quote:
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August 7th, 2008, 10:12 PM
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#164 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Afflicted
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Quote:
 ..That has happened before. If it's in the begining of a wind you can start again! If it's near the end you can scrape off the enamel, solder the wire together, cover the solder joint with nail polish, and keep on going. I never had to do that. Mine always broke in the beginning because I wasn't paying attention... Cheers ED |
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August 7th, 2008, 10:58 PM
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#166 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Afflicted
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Quote:
Cheers ED |
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August 8th, 2008, 07:46 AM
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#168 (permalink) |
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Tele-Holic
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Hemlock, NY
Age: 55
Posts: 941
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courtesy of tfcbooks.com
American Wire Gauge (20º C) AWG = Brown & Sharpe AWG OHMS PER WIRE SIZE 1000 FT. DIAMETER 0000 .049 .460 000 .0618 .4097 00 .078 .3648 0 .0983 .3249 1 .1239 .2893 2 .1563 .2576 3 .1970 .2294 4 .2485 .2043 5 .3133 .1819 6 .3951 .1620 7 .4982 .1443 8 .6281 .1285 9 .7925 .1144 10 .9987 .1019 11 1.261 .0907 12 1.588 .0808 13 2.001 .0720 14 2.524 .0641 15 3.181 .0571 16 4.018 .0508 17 5.054 .0453 18 6.386 .0403 19 8.046 .0359 20 10.13 .0320 21 12.77 .0285 22 16.20 .0253 23 20.30 .0226 24 25.67 .0201 25 32.37 .0179 26 41.02 .0159 27 51.44 .0142 28 65.31 .0126 29 81.21 .0113 30 103.7 .0100 31 130.9 .0089 32 162.0 .0080 33 205.7 .0071 34 261.3 .0063 35 330.7 .0056 36 414.8 .0050 37 512.1 .0045 38 648.2 .0040 39 846.6 .0035 40 1079. .0031 41 1323. .0028 42 1659. .0025 43 2143. .0022 44 2593. .0020 45 3348. .00176 46 4207. .00157 47 5291. .00140 |
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August 8th, 2008, 08:40 AM
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#170 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Afflicted
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Quote:
...don't you just love it!!Thanks Marty! Cheers ED |
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August 8th, 2008, 08:11 PM
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#171 (permalink) | |
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Friend of Leo's
Join Date: May 2007
Location: North NSW, Australia
Age: 37
Posts: 4,852
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Quote:
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August 10th, 2008, 01:02 AM
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#172 (permalink) | |
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Friend of Leo's
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Quote:
http://www.lacemusic.com/electric_pi...ne_article.php
__________________
"The children need to learn how to build their own environment and make their own music that is inspired by their roots."--Eugene Hütz "All music turns out to be ethnic music."--Steve Reich |
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August 10th, 2008, 02:20 AM
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#173 (permalink) | |
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Friend of Leo's
Join Date: May 2007
Location: North NSW, Australia
Age: 37
Posts: 4,852
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Quote:
 . How about doing some vampire-killer pickups, Ed?
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August 10th, 2008, 12:22 PM
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#174 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Afflicted
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Quote:
Aluminum!?! must be a pain to wind! Hey Nick...send me the silver wire and I'll wind you a set too!  Cheers ED PS.. your aussie swimmer is REALLY good lookin'
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August 10th, 2008, 12:36 PM
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#175 (permalink) |
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Tele-Holic
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: York, ME
Age: 33
Posts: 803
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Alright Ed, I ordered up some bobbins and A2. I'm gonna try the lap wrap as well. At least that way when you start giving me crap about how the pup sounds I'll know what your takin' about.
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WWLD (What would Leo Do?) |
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August 10th, 2008, 12:57 PM
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#176 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Afflicted
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Quote:
Let the fun begin!!
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August 10th, 2008, 01:02 PM
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#177 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
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The pearl marker dots have been glued in. Here are a few pics of the process...
Tools...  I use the file to bevel the back edge of the pearl. That edge is like a knife! It makes it easier to insert the pearl. My holes are a line to line fit with the pearl. I put a dab of glue in the hole and insert the pearl...  I then use the flat side of a SMOOTH pair of pliers (you can use any smooth object) to "rock" over and seat the pearl...  Last dot!  I make my holes .050 deep. The pearl is .050 thick but the small amount of glue has them stand proud a little. about .003 - .005 high. That makes for easier sanding of the fretboard and pearl when finished. |
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August 10th, 2008, 01:03 PM
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#178 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
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Here are some finished pics...
  Today (Sunday) I will put the side markers in and finish sand the neck. I will then install the frets , file the ends, and sand one more time. I will then give it a tint with a few drops of colortone vintage amber in alcohol. (sprayed on)...It's then ready for lacquer. I will level the frets after the neck is finished. I may put together the pickup chassis also. My wife is at work today, so the day is MINE!! ( I did all my "honey-do" stuff on Saturday!) Cheers ED |
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August 10th, 2008, 07:42 PM
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#179 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
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Uh-OH...The whole day wasn't mine!..
..Anyway...the side dots are glued in..The frets will have to wait! Here is the tool I use to drill the side dots with. I made the simple fixture for my 53 build, but it worked so well that I'm using it for all my side dots now! I had to put some painters tape on it (there are many uses for painters tape that are not related to painting!) to raise it up about 1/16 of an inch more then on my previous maple neck.  The way it is used is...measure between the fret slots and put a pencil mark at the dot location...  Put the fixture on the neck and line up the hole and pencil mark and...drill! 
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August 10th, 2008, 07:43 PM
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#180 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
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With all the holes drilled I am ready to insert the pearl dots. They are 3/32 dots purchased from Stewmac.
 Don't sneeze!!!  I put a drop of Titebond in level to the top of the hole...  Insert the pearl, then use a flat object to press the pearl even with the neck With all the dots in I'm ready for the frets...  I also had time to build the pickup chassis, but alas, no time right now to post! Pictures of that to come! Cheers ED |
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August 10th, 2008, 09:11 PM
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#181 (permalink) |
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Doctor of Teleocity
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: New Orleans, LA + in the past
Posts: 15,209
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There are guys who assemble guitars (me) and the there are the guys who really build guitars.
You have no idea how impressive this stuff is, to me. Thanks.
__________________
When i listen |
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August 10th, 2008, 11:58 PM
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#183 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
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Ah...Time is back on my side! I can now post the chassis pics! My wife is drinking Mai Tai's and eating lobster...(my neighbor has a lobster boat out of Belford...we get some of the shorts...Sshhh!)
Here is a picture of the bridge parts...  The first thing is to inspect the flatwork for any sharp edges that will catch the wire when winding. Sand the edges and countersink the top for mag insertion. I use a 60 degree center drill...  I made magnet holders from clear plexiglass (acrylic, perspex for the brits). I have several with different hole sizes for the magnets. Vintage mags in the 50's were .193 to .197 dia. Fender went to 3/16 mags sometime in the late 50's. Stewmac magnets are vintage specs. Around .195 dia, but all of them are Alnico 5. The magnets from Mojo were .1875, late 50's spec, but they were alnico 2, which I wanted. I also bought the flatwork from them because it fit their 3/16 mags. All the stuff from them was top notch! The mag holder holds the magnets square to the flatwork when tapping them in...  Tapping in... 
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August 11th, 2008, 12:00 AM
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#184 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
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When tapping in the magnets you will get a bit of flash under the flatwork...
 Just clean this off and give a finlal tap to seat the mag. When all the magnets are in the bottom half you will have this...  You will notice that I position the eyelets large side up. Most winders put the large side down. I want most of my solder on the bridge pickup to be on the top of my flatwork.Why... I don't know. I just think the larger solder amount will help to protect the delecate wire. It's just the way that I do it . With that said, I have to flatten the eyelets so as not to catch the 43 gauge wire when winding. I use a pin punch to flatten them and then sand them to smooth the surface...  Sanded... 
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August 11th, 2008, 12:02 AM
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#185 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
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With the magnets pressed into the bottom I am now ready to put the top flatwork on. I chamfer the side toward the mags and place the flatwork on the mags...
 I use the plexiglass insertion tool to span the mags and tap the top onto them...  At this point you have flash around the mags. It looks like the old early 50's bridge pickup tops! I wonder if Fender cleaned this flash off? After all, EVERYONE used the bridge cover to hide it, right!?!..  .Well, I clean the flash off and give a final tap with the insertion tool inplace and end up with a clean top...  At this point the pickup chassis is ready for dipping. Fender used to dip them in lacquer. I dip mine in shellac. The neck pickup is done in the same way. The dipping process insulated the magnets from shorting out on the magnet wire. Even though the magnet wire was coated, this was an extra precaution! Well, I'm off to enjoying my Mai tai's and lobster...Next is the fretting of the veneer neck and the cutting of the broadcaster neck! Cheers A lobster eating ED PS all of this only takes about 5 mins. |
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August 11th, 2008, 01:11 AM
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#187 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Afflicted
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Quote:
I left out an important step...The filing of the "V" to help guide the mag wire...  Thanks all ...Hey Steve...I'm waiting for the Jorgenson gold sparklecaster...Love your work!! Cheers ED |
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August 11th, 2008, 03:33 AM
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#188 (permalink) | |
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Doctor of Teleocity
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: New Orleans, LA + in the past
Posts: 15,209
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Quote:
Ed, how many necks can you get out of a single .021 carbide mill bit like that? Much obliged.
__________________
When i listen |
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August 12th, 2008, 02:53 PM
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#190 (permalink) |
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Tele-Holic
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Paddock Wood, Kent, England
Posts: 868
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Ed, I just stumbled upon this site: http://pickups.myonlinesite.com/programs.php Not sure if the programs are any good, but there is an online version of the pickup calculator at the bottom...
just thought id contribute as everyone was talking formulas! EDIT: http://pickups.myonlinesite.com/pick...turns&avt=8000 here is an example of the online pickup calculator. |
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August 12th, 2008, 03:47 PM
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#191 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Afflicted
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Quote:
Cheers ED |
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August 12th, 2008, 08:53 PM
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#192 (permalink) | |
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Friend of Leo's
Join Date: May 2007
Location: North NSW, Australia
Age: 37
Posts: 4,852
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Quote:
 She might get another gold in the 200m. She's a bit better looking than some of the Rice's on the TDPRI ...
__________________
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August 13th, 2008, 11:59 AM
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#193 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Afflicted
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Quote:
Must be something in the water in Australia!
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August 13th, 2008, 11:27 PM
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#195 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Afflicted
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Quote:
The endmill I was using did 3 necks so far. A Maple, an African blackwood (black ebony) and the Macassar neck in this thread. I'll use it for the Broadcaster neck also. It's not so much the pressure from cutting, but the build up of chips. These endmills are designed for metal, so the flutes are shallow. If they had deep flutes to clear the wood chips away they would be weaker. I guess you could say you sacrifice speed for longevity! The fret cutting takes about 15 min to do at a "safe" pace. Each endmill cost about $15.00. Not too bad! Thanks BB Cheers ED |
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August 28th, 2008, 09:55 PM
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#197 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
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The frets are in the veneer neck. Here are some picks....
Tools... (that crazy hammer I built for the 53 build!}  Clean slot and first fret in...   finished, ready for finishing and fret leveling...  Now..On to the meat of this thread (or what it is really supposed to be about!) The Broadcaster neck... |
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August 28th, 2008, 09:57 PM
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#198 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
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Double face tape is used to tape delrin blocks to the machine table to protect it from the .625 ball cutter...
 The wood is then taped down and the outer shape cut...  I then cut the truss rod "skunk stripe" shape in. The skunk stripe on the broadcasters were .24 to .25 wide ( the 52s and on were around .220) and about 7/16 longer then the "modern" necks. The top of the stripe was just about dead even with the first fret...  
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August 28th, 2008, 09:58 PM
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#199 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
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The back shape of the neck is then cut. This is a soft V..(whatever that is to Tadeos hand sanding) ...
First the headstock area...  And then the rest...  The headstock area requires very little work with a file afterwards! Here is a picture of the cut right off the machine...  Here is a picture looking down the neck..It's a bit fuzzy, but you may be able to make out the soft V shape... 
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August 28th, 2008, 10:01 PM
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#200 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
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Here is the back of the neck cut...
 I already cut the filler strip out of walnut. I have to drill the adjustment nut hole, shape the headstock dropdown and drill the hole for truss rod insertion and the walnut plug to "plug" it..After that I can shape the fingerboard, cut the fret slots and marker cavities. All this to come next week! On a side and sort of "fun" note..I wanted to get a hand fret press. Well, they are $$$$$$$ expensive!! Around $200. bucks! And I'm cheap! So I bought this $21.00 vise grip and I'm going to alter it and make a few pieces out of aluminum to hold the Stewmac fret cauls. The ends of it is glass hard (around 64 Rockwell) so since we have an EDM (electrical discharge machine) in our shop I'll use that to "burn" the holes for holding pins. More on that to come later tonight. I have to proccess the pics.... More to come!! Cheers ED |
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48 Photos
