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| Tele Home Depot Building a T-Style guitar? From scratch or from parts. This is the forum for you. |
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#121 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
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CNC programm screen for the inner radius cut...
![]() Cutting of the radius... ![]() I want a 9.5" radius. .080 verneer thickness, so the inner radius was cut at 9.420" (oh boy!...math)... ![]() See what I mean about being close!?! There is only about .015" left for clean-up when I cut the fret side. It shouldn't be a problem, but ....better safe than sorry! I'm going to stay late at work tomorrow and cut the truss rod slot , fill strip, and (after the fill strip glue dries) the "inner radius" suface. Should be a fun time!?! (I hope!) Pictures to follow tomorrow... Thanks all, good luck, and good night. Cheers ED |
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#124 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
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Back again...I cut the truss rod channel and insert yesterday. My wife called and said I had to come home early so I didn't get to cut the "Inner" radius for the verneer yet, but that will happen next week.
This is the drawing I made for cutting the truss rod channels... ![]() The first thing to cut is the truss rod insert. I used a scrap piece of maple, fly cut it to .185 thick, and cut the insert shape. This is a fly cutter... ![]() It is a single point cutter used for cutting stuff FLAT! They call it a fly cutter because it flies around and has the tendency to ...umm...send things flying! Rough cutting the stock... ![]() Checking the first cut so as to raise the bed to the final cut... .320"...Raise the bed .135 and cut! (more math)...
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#125 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
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With the piece cut to .185 I can now cut the insert...
![]() The final cut brings the cutter right down to the tape!... ![]() Here is the cut insert... ![]() I now make a test cut in a 2X4 for the arched truss channel. Better to blow it in a test piece than the neck!...
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#126 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
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With that out of the way, and everything looking good, I can now set up my neck fixtures. I made these fixtures in the last build (cnc 53' build)...
![]() The bed of the machine has clamp and alignment slots that are .625 wide exactly. Dead straight to the X travel of the machine. The fixtures have .625 steel dowels on the centerline that fit into these slots... ![]() I tape the head fixture to the bed. If you look back at the drawing of the neck you will see a centerline and red dot at the head stock end. That is my zero point. On the headstock fixture I have a 3/16 hole at that point. I indicate the center of that hole, and set my machine to zero. Ready to go!... ![]() Pins go in the two "E" tuner holes and dowels locate the heel so the neck and machine are now both on the same centerline...
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#127 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
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I am now ready to cut the truss rod channel...
![]() ![]() With the truss channel cut to depth I remove the neck and use the adjustment screw fixture to drill the heel end for the screw. Remember these from the 53 build?... ![]() I drill the 3/16 hole first. It comes in perfect to the slot, right along the bottom. You don't want any step between the hight of the channel and the mating hole or you might get "truss rattle"...I hate truss rattle!.. Picture of the hole and fixture...
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#128 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
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I now switch drill guides and drill the 3/8 hole to a depth of 7/8. and insert the truss rod...
![]() I check the fit of the insert... ![]() Install and check the adjustment screw... ![]() And I'm ready to glue in the insert and cut the inner radius for the verneer. I'll glue the insert in today and cut the radius on monday, so more stuff to come! Cheers ED |
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#129 (permalink) | |
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Doctor of Teleocity
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Quote:
__________________
Jack's Disclaimer: When I say something.... always ask yourself ..... "What the hell does he know?" I'm just not cool enough to be a Mac person. |
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#131 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
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Here is some of the fun part of neck building. I glued the truss rod insert in yesterday.
I used to use titebond II but I went back to the old standard!! It really works the best... ![]() When I glue the insert in I only put glue along the edges of the insert only! I don't want to glue the whole truss rod into place! I'm not sure if it would be detremental or not, but I play it safe. I use small clamps and use just enough pressure to hold the insert in place... ![]() (my wife put the tulip tablecloth over our antique pine table...she knew I was working!!) Then today the really fun part began....The headstock shaping! I leave the headstock in sort of a rough state when I machine them. There are so many different radius shapes on the back of them that I would have to draw too many files, so I shape them by hand. The 60s' verneer necks have a more pronounced radius on the curved part of the headstock than the 50s' had. Here are some pictures of the necks I am making and the 67 neck to compare it with. Rough shaping of the verneer necks... ![]()
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#132 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
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![]() The verneer neck is one of the "prettiest" necks that Fender made IMHO! Here are some pictures of the 67 neck... ![]() .080" thick verneer top! These necks all used MOP dots!! I love it!! ![]() Beautiful dark rosewood...I hope the ebony looks as nice! Here is what the verneer looks like at the headstock end...
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#134 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
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Here are some shots comparing headstock shapes. I'm not going to finalize the shaping until I cut the radius for the ebony top and the drop-down.
![]() ![]() And here is a couple of pictures of the old girl...I still have the inspection tag (well, who ever had it before me still had it!) ![]() ![]() By the way...this is the body that I CMMed to make ALL my drawings and alterations from. From DAY ONE! This is also the body shape that Terry Downs used for his tele print! An interesting fact about this...The bridge pickup cavity was routed at 14 degrees!! but all the Fender bridges that I used to make all my guitars from are at 17 degrees, the standard, and everything still fit....Fender did some strange stuff! All my drawings for the 53 build were at 14 degrees. The drawings for this build are at 17 degrees. All my others, and there are quite a few, are at 14 degrees! A Fender vintage style bridge still fits perfect though Well, Monday I should finish up the cutting for the verneer necks. Pics to follow of that, and then it's on to concentrating on the Broadcaster build. The thread this is supposed to be about! I am almost done with the soft Vee solids drawing of the neck for the broadcaster, and of course the pickup winding is in the near future also. I am winding both pickups with 43 gauge wire just like the first broadcaster ones. I hear it is tough to get them to sound good like that, but, I want to be true to the build!! Cheers ED |
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#135 (permalink) |
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Tele-Holic
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: York, ME
Age: 33
Posts: 803
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It's lookin' great Ed!!!
You gonna make the flatwork for the pickups this time? As far as the Broadcaster pup, I've got a Broadcaster bridge that Don Mare made that uses A2, 43 gauge wire and is wound to 11.5k. Its a great sounding pup. Almost like a mini p90. Its got more mid range than a standard bridge and not as much twang. Very full sounding.
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WWLD (What would Leo Do?) |
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#136 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
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Well, I did a few more things the last few days. You know me and building fixtures!!. I cut clamps for glueing the verneer on the neck!
I call them "crooked thumb" clamps!?!....Don't they look like a thumb? Made from old rock maple (from 1982...I bought it to fix my grandfathers desk) ![]() Here's one with the caul used to hold the verneer with even pressure, even out to the sides. ![]() Here is how I used them. The neck fit into the crook of the "thumb". this centered the neck under the center of the clamp, along with the caul.
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#139 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
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After the glue set overnight I took off the clamps and filed the sides even to the neck. The clamps did thier job!! A tight even seam along the neck! Here are some shots after fileing and sanding...
![]() With the verneer now glued on I can finish the radius at the headstock drop-down.. ![]() ![]() Here is a shot of the grain of the Macassar ebony! Looks like old rosewood! When it is sanded, the MOP dots put in the top and side dots, (yes...in the old verneer necks even the side dots are MOP) Frets installed and oiled it should look great! ![]() These necks are going to sit now untill I have the Broadcaster neck done. I will do all the fretting at the same time. Within the next week I should be finished with the drawing for that. The Broadcaster neck will be a soft vee shape. A whole new solids drawing. When it is done I will post it on the files page! Untill then, Cheers ED |
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#141 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Afflicted
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Quote:
I could buy the fiberboard stock from stewmac and cut my own, but it's just as cheap Thanks jaydawg.. Cheers ED |
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#142 (permalink) |
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Tele-Holic
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: York, ME
Age: 33
Posts: 803
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Check out Mojo. They have flatwork and A2 mags.
http://www.mojomusicalsupply.com/pickup-parts.asp
__________________
WWLD (What would Leo Do?) |
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#143 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Afflicted
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Quote:
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#145 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
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I cut the headstock drop down, the nut, and the fret slots today. The neck is now ready for the pearl, sanding, and the frets. Here are some shots of the operation!
Neck is set up on the fixture and the fingerboard is cut to final radius. This is a 9.5 radius neck. The dropdown is then cut... ![]() ![]() Heel view of the verneer... ![]() I then cut the nut slot. The nut slot and frets are all cut on a 9.5 radius (actually 9.425, they are .075 deep) |
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#149 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
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Thanks Telex!
By the way...I was just informed by a certain family member that there is no "R" in the first half of "VERNEER" From now on it will be known as "VENEER"...(I looked it up in wiki.) Cheers ED |
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#151 (permalink) |
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Tele-Holic
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Sacramento, CA
Age: 26
Posts: 552
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Ed,
Is the bit your using for radius work flat on the bottom or is completely round? I've been using a 3/8 (or 1/2 depending on whats in the machine at the time) round bottomed coving bit for radius work which is fine 'cept it leaves little ridges between passes. I can run the program again shifted slightly over and that gets most of them but I still end up doing a fair amount of sanding. Im thinking of moving to a bit with rounded edges but a flat bottom would solve it (honestly, my straight 1/2" spiral downcut would probably do the job just fine but for some reason with the machine moving up and down as its cutting a rounded edge seems like a smarter move) Just curious cause yours come out looking freaking PERFECT. |
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#152 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Afflicted
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Quote:
When I cut the back shape on the neck I set my passes to .025. Takes less time, but a little more sanding. Thanks Scotland! Much appreciated! Cheers guys, ED |
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#153 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Holic
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Kentucky
Age: 26
Posts: 926
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Quote:
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#154 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Afflicted
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Quote:
Cheers ED... PS...check this out. They spell it both ways on the same page..(not that I feel vindicated or anything..) |
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#155 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
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Well..The solids are done for the broadcaster neck. The neck will have a soft vee profile. Here are a few pictures of the generation of the solids...
Generating the "tuner side" contour surface... ![]() Generating the bout side radius... ![]() Headstock and neck profile solids... ![]() Heel solid generation...
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#156 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
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After I generate the surface and solid files I pull them into Solidworks and tweak and stich everything together.
Here are pictures of the front and back views in Solidworks.. ![]() ![]() All my parts came in today for the pickups and the pearl came also. The pickup parts I orderd from Mojo music. They had the Alnico 2 magnets that I needed for the bridge pickup. ![]() The alnico 5 is for the neck pickup...
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#157 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
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I also orderd cloth wire from Mojo. The pearl I orderd from Stewmac. I got the gold pearl to give the neck a more "older" appearence!
![]() Here is the pearl. 1/4 " dots and 3/32" side dots. It's easier to buy them finished then try and sand raw pearl round!! I've been there before! ![]() With all these parts in now I can finish the VENEER neck. Pictures of that to come. With the solids finished for the broadcaster neck I can start to machine that. With all the pickup parts in I can start to wind the pickups. I'm going with JayDawgs suggestion and using the A2 magnets for the bridge pickup and winding it hot! To around 11+ K! He says his Don Mare's sound great. We'll see how these sound. The only thing I want to order is a zinc plated steel plate for the bridge pickup instead of the copper plated steel. That is what was used in the original broadcasters. If anyone knows where to get one please chime in! Well, my wife won't see me for another few weeks!! Lots more to come.. Cheers ED |
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#160 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
Join Date: May 2007
Location: North NSW, Australia
Age: 37
Posts: 4,852
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How many winds till 11k? Do you stop winding and scratch a bit of insulation off and make a quick resistance check ... or is there a formula that ya can plug in the wire gauge, the pickup width and the number of windings to know when to stop?
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