CNC Broadcaster build...and then some!

[dougk]

Originally Posted by ehawley

Thanks Doug! Hmm....Sounds like a software thing! PM me and I'll give you my phone #. Lets talk. I might be able to help you with the necks...(G code maybe?)
Cheers
ED

Oh no worries Ed. G-Code is much deeper involved with this CNC than anyone should. One thing to keep in mind is I shouldn't even be calling mine a CNC, its a "Point to Point" router.

AKA a CNC router with a tool change and 10 line spindles with an interface and software dumbed down for the average cabinet maker to understand. I ran radius fretboards ok on it but its more a matter of dialing it in on the back radius. I wont lie though, I can draw in CAD and its own "CAD" program great in 2d but I've never learned to do anything 3 dimensionally.

But hey, atleast the more guitars I draw and cut on the clock the more I can excuse it as "learning" right?

I REALLY appreciate the offer though, I will probably still take you up on it when I get back from my honeymoon. One of these days I'll finish the neck I started for my red strat.

[Wild Rice Chris]

Originally Posted by ehawley

On another note, I'm planing another "RT 66" trip this winter. I'm going to stop along the way and visit fellow TDPRIers. You are on my list if you would like to join me for a few quick ones!?! We'll talk about it when the time gets closer! Alot of you live along that great road!
Cheers
ED

Ed, we're about 30 miles from RT 66 in Chicago. You should definately stop by, Rich and I would love to have you.

[ehawley]

Originally Posted by Wild Rice Chris

Ed, we're about 30 miles from RT 66 in Chicago. You should definately stop by, Rich and I would love to have you.

Chris..I wouldn't miss it for anything!!! You guys are on the list! Thanks
ED

[Nick JD]

Originally Posted by ehawley

Here is a shot of the ebony...

I'm a big fan of this stuff. Most people think it's from Africa, but it's from an island in Indonesia, just above Australia. Ujung Pandang is now called Makassar. I heard that it's often dyed black and sold as African ebony.

That piece you have is very nicely coloured, Ed. A timber shop by me had a log of the stuff but it had cool creamy ripples in it like this.



I think higher grades have more uniform colour, but I really dig the stripes! Can't wait to see the finished fretboard.

[Wild Rice Chris]

I like Macassar Ebony also. I first saw it on some high-end bass fingerboards.
We used it for some dot inlays on a maple board (with matching switch and trem tips).

[jaydawg]

Hey Ed, I'd love to see the files your using for this build. Any chance you can post them like you did with your last build?

[ehawley]

Originally Posted by Nick JD

I'm a big fan of this stuff. Most people think it's from Africa, but it's from an island in Indonesia, just above Australia. Ujung Pandang is now called Makassar. I heard that it's often dyed black and sold as African ebony.

Hi NIck...Yeah, the makassar is great looking stuff. There is so much variation between boards that you wouldn't even think it is a true ebony! But when you feel the weight!!.....like rock!

Originally Posted by jaydawg

Hey Ed, I'd love to see the files your using for this build. Any chance you can post them like you did with your last build?

Yup...In the next few days I'll be double checking the files, finishing the surfaces on the broadcaster neck, and checking toolpaths for anyone that wants the Mastercam files . I'll post them in dxf, dwg, pdf, and parasolids.


Thanks again all!
Cheers
ED

[Nick JD]

Originally Posted by ehawley

Hi NIck...Yeah, the makassar is great looking stuff. There is so much variation between boards that you wouldn't even think it is a true ebony! But when you feel the weight!!.....like rock!

Mmmmm - my favourite fruit ever is Ebony fruit. The Black Sapote aka Chocolate Pudding Fruit. Diospyros digyna.



Macassar Ebony is D. celebica. There's a couple of Australian ebonys, but I haven't been able to track any down.

How thick are you making the fretboard? Hope those CNC bits are hard .

[ehawley]

Originally Posted by Nick JD

How thick are you making the fretboard? Hope those CNC bits are hard .

The fretboard will be an .080 inch thick curved verneer like this here...



That's my 67 and I'm going for that look. I'm not going to try and "curve" it around the maple because I'm afraid of spliting, so I'm going to cut the inside curve first...glue it on ...and then cut the topside. I have to start with a .160 thick piece.
Here is the grain again, and as you can see..this stuff ain't cheep!!
.82 board feet and almost $60 bucks...ouch!!



There is no wood hard enough to hinder cutting on the cnc...heck...I cut stainless on it all the time!! It will cut like there is nothing there!!

Cheers
ED

[jwells393]

There is no wood hard enough to hinder cutting on the cnc...heck...I cut stainless on it all the time!!

Ed...... do you use a special cutter when cutting stainless?

[ehawley]

Originally Posted by jwells393

Ed...... do you use a special cutter when cutting stainless?

Yup....There is a cutter for everything. When I'm cutting stainless, it depends on the dia. of the cutter. On anything over 1/8 (cutter size) I use a super high spiral 3 flute cutter, fairly slow cutter speeds (around 1500 RPM), and coolant. The endmill material being a C3 carbide. The high spiral keeps the side loading down which is usually the "cutter killer". 3 flutes as opposed to 2 because the web of the cutter is larger in diameter. Under 1/8 cutter size I use just regular carbide, regular helix, alot of coolant, and alot of luck!

When I said it cuts like nothing there I was refering to the wood, not the stainless. Stainless can be a pain depending on the type...302..303..416...Every type has its' own personality!
Cheers
ED

[Taipan]

Originally Posted by ehawley

Stainless can be a pain...ED

No can be's about it when it come to 304....


Must have been great walking through here :

[ehawley]

Originally Posted by Taipan

No can be's about it when it come to 304....


Must have been great walking through here :

To me it's the best place to be. I build furniture also and I go there at least twice a month! That picture is just their exotics shed. The have a shed with their "local" woods in it. Man...they had a piece of flamed maple that was 4" thick by 10" wide by about 8 feet long! I didn't even ask the price! But if anybody wants it ... it's still there! At 4" wide you could do alot of quarter sawn necks!


As far as stainless steel...give me 303 any day! 416 is also easy to machine. I don't have to tell you that. I've seen your work! Any time I design a medical device I always try to use 303 or 416. Even 416PH (pre hardened) since I have to prototype them also...but ...most medical instruments require 18-8 or 302...ugh!!
Cheers
ED

[ehawley]

Here is the files page...This will be updated as needed. DXF, DWG, PDF, and Parasolid files will be posted here.

DXF Files...

Verneer neck...here

Broadcaster neck...here

Broadcaster body...here


DWG Files...

Verneer neck...here

Broadcaster neck...here

Broadcaster body...here


pdf will be added when done along with parasolid files of body and necks.

enjoy!
Cheers
ED

[Westerly Sunn]

but, how do you clean up your machine/shop area after machining metal? This is a question that first floated up in my mind regarding machine shops which I would assume are significantly messier than your operation, but I'm sure you could provide valuable insight into the particulars of cleaning up metal shavings.

[ehawley]

Originally Posted by Westerly Sunn

but, how do you clean up your machine/shop area after machining metal? This is a question that first floated up in my mind regarding machine shops which I would assume are significantly messier than your operation, but I'm sure you could provide valuable insight into the particulars of cleaning up metal shavings.

A broom and a dust pan!.. ..

[Taipan]

Or if you let them collect for a few jobs a broom and a shovel.

[Nick JD]

Originally Posted by Taipan

Or if you let them collect for a few jobs a broom and a shovel.

Perhaps I could interest you good men in a pair of patented Nick JD's Magnetic Slippers. They were initially invented for a friend who rode a motorcycle in a sphere cage in the local circus on the off chance that he ran out of gas while upside-down. Unfortunately both his feet got stuck to the motorcycle's tank and he was dragged to an untimely, but rather drawn out muliti-longitudinal and latitudinal death.

They would make fine metal workshop cleaning devices though ... just don't wear them too close to an operating lathe.

[ehawley]

Hey Nick..If you could come up with aluminum and brass magnets....Hmmmm... sshhhh...(I'll split it with you!!)

[ehawley]

I'm going to let the necks sit until next week. I want to see if there is any twist in the flamed maple. Someone said that a flamed piece has more stress in it after it is cut because of the different hardnesses in the flame. (Willard bros. guy) Who knows? Can't hurt to let them sit and then machine the fretboard side next week.

So...tomorrow I'm going to machine a "milled" jack cup. Since I don't have one it will be my own design, but it sure looks close enough! Heck...it only holds the jack, right? I'll post the drawing for that also after I see how it turns out! I'm copying it from a picture in the blackguard book. You would be suprised how close dimension-wise you can come from a picture as long as you have something to gauge it to. The outside diameter of the cup is 1", so that is my "gauge" point! Pictures to follow!!

Cheers
ED

[ehawley]

Here is the cad drawing for the cup...

[ehawley]

Couple of more shots...

[ehawley]

I machined the "milled" jackcup today. Fender used these up until end of 1952 I believe. Maybe even into early 53'.
This is not a copy of an actual cup, but a close facsimile. (as close as my eyes can see!) What the heck!... it only holds the jack...right?
I made it out of 303 stainless. One of the easiest machining grades!

I started with a 2" length...



The diameter was 1.2" so I had to turn it down to 1" dia. ( I could have started with 1" , but I didn't have any in-house...and I'm cheap!)
I held it in a three jaw chuck to turn one end so it would fit into a 1" collet.



The reason I don't finish the part in the 3 jawed chuck is because of the knurling operation. A LOT of side load is applied in that operation and it might not be secure in the chuck!

after the 1" dia is turned I place it in a 1" collet and turn the other side to 1" also. I then center drill the blank...





It's now ready to for the 3/8 drill.

[ehawley]

When drilling stainless, even 303, you have to use slow RPM and strong feed on the drill, along with lots of oil. If not you will "glaze", or work harden, the surface. A real pain. You then have to switch to carbide to get through the hard spot. If you let off on drill pressure abit you will do the same! Once you start to cut, DON'T STOP!!.

Drilling the blank...



With the blank now drilled I'll start to knurl the "lock" feature. I don't hollow the cup area yet because of the side pressure used in knurling. You would deform the piece!

Here are some straight knurling tools...



Diamond knurls are just helical shaped wheels one under and one over that mesh to make the diamond shape, like on tele knobs. For the cup I used a straight knurl.
You slowley "press" the shape of the tool into the metal...



I didn't take much care in doing this since it won't be seen, but you get the idea.

Once the knurl is finished I cut the piece off and turn it and place it in a 7/8 collet to bore the cup area...



When the cup area is done I polish it and remove it to put on a fixture to finish the back of the cup.

[ehawley]

I turn a fixture out of ABS to hold the cup side, and work on the back taper..





A little bit of sanding and polishing and it's done!

[ehawley]

I also cut the ferrule side of the body today.... I went with Jack's suggestion and cut them "in-line"..





With that done I can now radius and finish the body.
Next week the verneer fretboard side along with the truss channel and fretboard will be cut. I'm still working on the solids drawing for the Broadcaster neck itself. It's a soft Vee and that will be posted soon!
Thanks all !
Cheers
ED

[Buckocaster51]

I tell you Ed, you are making me wish that I knew just a little about machine tools.

There is an entire universe out there that I know so little about.

Thanks for giving me a peak of it.

[jwells393]

Ed ............ is there anything you can't make? I doubt it.

[RichardWitt]

Originally Posted by ehawley

A little bit of sanding and polishing and it's done!

I'm sorry for the language in advance........, but that is f@#king incredible! (my apologies again!)

Ed, you are truly in a class of your own mate!

[ehawley]

You guys are making me blush... As far as machining goes, That is actually easy to make. The phone rang while I was making it so I backed off on the knurling tool, the one thing your taught NOT to do, and when I went back I cross knurled it!! ....If you look at it you will see a light knurl over the heavy one. Oh well...like I said, you won't see that part..

Again, thanks guys. I take all these comments to heart!
Cheers
ED

And thanks Jack for "nudging" me in the right direction on the ferrules!

[boris bubbanov]

That looks great, Ed!

I love a machined jack cup.

I just don't use them until I am 100 percent on the body finish, because they are not meant to be taken in and out.

[spankdplank]

Incredible. We're not worthy! (but please keep it coming!)

[telefunk]

[quote=ehawley;1348983]....If you look at it you will see a light knurl over the heavy one. Oh well...like I said, you won't see that part..

I thought it was supposed to look like that !!

[dougk]

Man thats incredible Ed!!

Im so jealous of your machining skills. You'd think after 15 years of building and restoring cars I'd be able to do some of that but Im usually happy if I can just make two pieces of metal stick together after I've welded it LOL

[Westerly Sunn]

What material are those Knurling wheels made of?

[Ron Garson]

Once again I am astounded at the limitless talent shown here!

[ehawley]

Originally Posted by Westerly Sunn

What material are those Knurling wheels made of?

The knurling wheels are made from tool steel. Usually hardened to around Rockwell 65. You can purchase different pitches...ex-fine,-fine,-med....ect.
If you go to Mcmaster Carr HERE and type "knurling tools" as a product search you can take a look at them. It will also show a diamond knurl which will explain it better then I did.


Thanks again all!
Cheers
ED

[Little Nip]

Ed,
Like the others, I really enjoy your threads. I'll be using your '53 body file soon and have some questions. It looks as if you are routing the ferrule holes. How did you register the body? The routing looks as clean as can be (we've come to expect that cleanliness from you). Are you just using tape as a hold down? The broadcaster, like the '53, appears to have no flat at the jack. Will you make a shallow 1" counterbore?

[ehawley]

Originally Posted by Little Nip

Ed,
Like the others, I really enjoy your threads. I'll be using your '53 body file soon and have some questions. It looks as if you are routing the ferrule holes. How did you register the body? The routing looks as clean as can be (we've come to expect that cleanliness from you). Are you just using tape as a hold down? The broadcaster, like the '53, appears to have no flat at the jack. Will you make a shallow 1" counterbore?

Yup...I'm cutting the ferrule holes on the cnc. I use one of the "E" holes on the body file drawing as zero and cnc two 1/8 holes in a plastic plate taped to the mill bed. I use the two E holes on either end. I put steel dowels in the E holes in the body , flip it , and tape it down to the plate. The body and the machine are now located at zero and I cut the toolpath for the ferrule holes. I have an example of this in the 53 build thread somewhere!
The cnc really cuts clean. No tear out, not much chipping... it all has to do with the steadiness of the machine.
The flat didn't really appear until 1954 sometime, and it was very suttle at that. I'm not planning on countersinking the jack cup. I don't think Fender did either. And yes....just good old double-sided masking tape from www.mcmaster.com. The stuff holds as well as any clamp..(as long as the surface that you are taping is FLAT!)

Thanks for your comments and any help I can give please ask.
Cheers
ED

PS...if you want a file with the flat as it was on the later teles, PM me and I'll email it to you.

[ehawley]

I did the "re-saw" thing today! I took one of the macassar ebony boards, set up an angle plate on the bandsaw and cut away. I was trying to get 4 pieces out of each board, but that was cutting it a bit close, so I settled for 3. Six in total. The board was exactly 1" thick. The first board I cut I had set for .200, but it cut around .180. Just enough for a verneer fretboard. I didn't like "just enough" so I upped the size to around .300

Here is the .200 (er... .180) piece taped to the cnc ready for the inner radius cut.





Nice grain shot!