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Tele Home Depot Building a T-Style guitar? From scratch or from parts. This is the forum for you.

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Old June 27th, 2009, 07:08 PM   #81 (permalink)
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Indeed, lakplamuur is only to use on primered surfaces. But even then you will see it can burn your paint afterwards.( although it says it will not)
This stuff is really meant to use for brushing afterwards; not spraying!
Better take the cheaper 'all way round' plamuur

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Old June 27th, 2009, 07:31 PM   #82 (permalink)
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Hi Tuur,You dont have to fill pine because it has no open pores.. just sand it flat with a block u[ to 320grit or so then wet the surface,let it dry and do the final sanding. Then stain and lacquer. When you want to do a solid (dekkende) color you can use 2k filler(polyesterplamuur) to smooth it out.
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Old June 27th, 2009, 07:34 PM   #83 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oigun View Post
Hi Tuur,You dont have to fill pine because it has no open pores.. just sand it flat with a block u[ to 320grit or so then wet the surface,let it dry and do the final sanding. Then stain and lacquer. When you want to do a solid (dekkende) color you can use 2k filler(polyesterplamuur) to smooth it out.
Thanks Oigun and Ray! Wood finishing is still unknown territory for me, but your tips help a lot!
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Old June 27th, 2009, 08:20 PM   #84 (permalink)
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Okay, so as far as the look goes, seems to me like a single bridge pickup, no switch, no control plate, and just volume and tone dome knobs behind the bottom F hole might be a great way to go with this. As far as to pickguard or not, and what type, I really dunno...!

I am in awe that you are able to do this. I am fairly handy, and would love to
try someday, but would need tools and space, which would take some doing...
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Old June 27th, 2009, 09:16 PM   #85 (permalink)
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Hi Jeru,

thanks for the kind words!
Space is the most important thing to have I guess, though there was a build thread by TDPRI member japasul in Brasil who built a tele from scratch on his balcony... Talking about amazing threads.

I got the space: a garage box we don't put our car in, so I'm covered there.
For tools, I only use this, all from your run off the mill hardware store:
- drillpress
- drill
- jig saw
- hand router (for better results I would advise to use a table router; I'd like to have one too when I grow up)
- cheapo workmate copy
- vise (we found a beautiful big one in the first house we bought, naturally took it with us when we moved)
- various files, rasps, screwdrivers
- soldering iron
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Old June 28th, 2009, 12:13 PM   #86 (permalink)
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Have a template bit already Tuuur? Guitarsupplies carries em € 23,95 ex shipping)
Got one of em, excellent bit! (don't forget to rder the 0.8 mm conversion sleeve!!!)

For this build, Looking good Tuuur!
Got questions, need help? JUST ASK!! PM and will come to the rescue.



Cheers,Olaf
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Old June 28th, 2009, 05:46 PM   #87 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Have a template bit already Tuuur? Guitarsupplies carries em € 23,95 ex shipping)
Got one of em, excellent bit! (don't forget to rder the 0.8 mm conversion sleeve!!!)

For this build, Looking good Tuuur!
Got questions, need help? JUST ASK!! PM and will come to the rescue.
Hey thanks Olaf! I'll remember that.

Now, I already have a template bit. I'm sort of looking for a bit for routing the binding route, but that's for another build. One difficult learning step at the time I say.

Did a sunburst test today. Sanding with 18i0, 250 and 320 grit, and then on with the Ecoline.



I'm thinking: less black, a little less burned siena, a whole lotta ochre... Also shot some clear gloss cloat.
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Old June 28th, 2009, 05:56 PM   #88 (permalink)
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Lookin good!
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Old July 2nd, 2009, 08:59 AM   #89 (permalink)
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After quite a few layers of clear lacquer:



Quite a bit of orange peel. But I didn't warm the can this time.
Next step: try to add more black.
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Old July 2nd, 2009, 09:39 AM   #90 (permalink)
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Interesting. What kind of pickups are going in this? I feel like it needs a piezo.
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Old July 2nd, 2009, 09:58 AM   #91 (permalink)
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Just a GFS tele bridge pickup, and no piezo.
I cannot get a satisfactionary tone out of a piezo equippes guitar...
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Old July 2nd, 2009, 10:12 AM   #92 (permalink)
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compressors help alot. A buddy of mine shoe horned a 4 knob compressor inside the control cavity of a LP. it was wired to a single volume to fade it in and out and you pulled up on the piezo volume to engage the comp.

Really opened it up.
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Old July 2nd, 2009, 10:32 AM   #93 (permalink)
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Tuuur, Dude!!!!

really making progress there... i dig it!

Warm the can indeed, it helps a lot...
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Old July 2nd, 2009, 11:24 AM   #94 (permalink)
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I have to say, it looks nice, but it'd look better with just a two tone burst of the black and red.
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Old July 4th, 2009, 08:04 AM   #95 (permalink)
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Did a second testpiece...

one side: 3 tone sunburst, ochre, burnt siena, black



other side: violin burst Burnt Siena, black.



I still vote for the 3 tone... but I like both! It's easy to mess this up though, and it's hard to make the black blend in easy.
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Old July 4th, 2009, 01:22 PM   #96 (permalink)
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The violin burst looks a thousand times better.

It'll look a million times better on an uncut body with black f-holes.
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Old July 4th, 2009, 02:49 PM   #97 (permalink)
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Quote:
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The violin burst looks a thousand times better.

It'll look a million times better on an uncut body with black f-holes.
+100
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Old July 4th, 2009, 02:52 PM   #98 (permalink)
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Quote:
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The violin burst looks a thousand times better.

It'll look a million times better on an uncut body with black f-holes.
Agreed!
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Old July 5th, 2009, 08:10 AM   #99 (permalink)
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Well, that settles it then!
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Old July 5th, 2009, 08:15 AM   #100 (permalink)
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Things I don't like about guitar building

Sanding...

Applying filler...



More sanding...

More filler...



More sanding...

Making mistakes...

More filler...



And waiting for that stuff to dry of course.
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Old July 5th, 2009, 11:05 AM   #101 (permalink)
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Patience is not one of my virtues...

So I stained the front and back with two coats of burnt siena. I'll do the sides later.





The light spots are filled dings. They'll be covered by the black paint later on, so I don't worry about it.
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Old July 5th, 2009, 12:04 PM   #102 (permalink)
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yay!! :-D
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Old July 5th, 2009, 12:52 PM   #103 (permalink)
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I noticed your handle for painting is attached from the rear. You may find it easier to sand and paint if it was attached from the front. That way you don't have to work around the screw heads. Another thing I noticed is the depth of you neck pocket seem a little shallow. It's fine if you want it that way but your string hight off the body will be pretty high. Cool build Tuuur. I really like the f-holes and double uncut body shape. I even liked the original neck you had planned on using. Cant wait to see it complete.
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Old July 5th, 2009, 09:29 PM   #104 (permalink)
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I think you should TOTALLY make it a 12 string, with a XII neck. It would fit NICELY.
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Old July 7th, 2009, 04:34 AM   #105 (permalink)
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Yeah, I'd like to have an electric 12 string... but then in Rickenbacker style, which means that the lower string of the pair comes first, and then the thinner drone string. Which is the opposite way most 12 string bridges work.
As it stands, I could do that, but because of the costs of new hardware to buy it would add a year to this build...
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Old July 7th, 2009, 12:54 PM   #106 (permalink)
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That's not the oposite as far as I know...
Plus, intonation on 12 strings is a bit of a crap shoot anyway, so why not just use a 6 string bridge?
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Old July 7th, 2009, 11:11 PM   #107 (permalink)
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I was going to go from memory, but I decided to get up and walk the 5 feet and check (and I was correct all along), on my acoustic 12 string, the high string does in fact come before the low string, if you are looking down on the strings from the playing position.
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Old July 8th, 2009, 05:21 PM   #108 (permalink)
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OK, let's clarify this with some pics...

Normal 12 string stringing is thus, thinner (drone) strings left, 'normal' strings right in every string pair:



Rickenbacker has the thicker strings left and the thinner ones right:



Some say this accounts a lot for the distinctive Roger McGuinn, George Harrison and Tom Petty sound.
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Old July 8th, 2009, 11:28 PM   #109 (permalink)
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I see. I guess all the 12ers in gainesville are the other way around cause of petty, then.
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Old July 16th, 2009, 10:10 AM   #110 (permalink)
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Recent progress...

Primer on the sides:



4-5 layers of black on the sides:





And then...
The First Burst I Did!



I'll take some other pics with my good camera (as opposed to these iPhone shots).
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Old July 16th, 2009, 10:45 AM   #111 (permalink)
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Not entirely dried black paint, with bridge for tele realization:



Better pic for actual color:

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Old July 16th, 2009, 02:34 PM   #112 (permalink)
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you could go with a 12 string TOM bridge...
http://cgi.ebay.com/TOG-12-STRING-TU...3286.m20.l1116

And a tailpiece would really make that violin burst even classier.
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Old July 30th, 2009, 05:58 PM   #113 (permalink)
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OK, did a LOT more clear coats, had one week and a half of vacation, and got busy today.

My camera is still full with vacation pics, so these ones are slightly less of quality...

I put on the neck, tuners, strap buttons, and started to make a nut following Holyman's recent nut making photo series. Then I tried to line out the bridge using string.

Turns out the neck is on a few degrees of the center line...







And no, it won't be a 12 string, I am going to use the stuff lying around here. Cannot afford buying all new hardware needed for that.

But then again, it looks like I found my own signature tele-derivate, which is quite something! Maybe a next build.
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Old July 30th, 2009, 09:33 PM   #114 (permalink)
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Man, you GOTTA put a tailpiece of some kind on there, it'd just look naked without one...
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Old July 31st, 2009, 04:31 AM   #115 (permalink)
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Man, you GOTTA put a tailpiece of some kind on there, it'd just look naked without one...
Something like this?



One problem... string spacing in that fake bigsby (or figsby) is way narrower than the tele bridge.
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Old July 31st, 2009, 05:13 AM   #116 (permalink)
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Tuuur, there's no neckpocket right?
That probably means you'd still be able to shift the neck a smidgeon to correct the "off" position in situ...
Or if there is, i think you could also move the bridge a to the right as to "correct" the positioning... it would take a trained eye to even see i think, one millimeter goes a long way's you know.
Furthermore, i have a no lip threebarrel bridge lying around wich is slightly longer then vintage spec (and has 10.5 spacing) so i think it could be of help correcting.
Someone once suggested these fat bridges are good for combining with tailpieces/figsby/bigsby

It's like this one only three barrel



Just give me a holler dude and it's yours...
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Old July 31st, 2009, 09:51 AM   #117 (permalink)
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Tuuur: In your pictures, are you using both E strings to find center of neck? If so, it looks like yo need to move the bridgedown toward treble side (larger gap on high side to neck edge than the bass side to neck edge). Just what I've seen from the pics.
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Old July 31st, 2009, 11:58 AM   #118 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Tuuur: In your pictures, are you using both E strings to find center of neck? If so, it looks like yo need to move the bridgedown toward treble side (larger gap on high side to neck edge than the bass side to neck edge). Just what I've seen from the pics.
If yo'd read the thread instead of just looked at the pictures you'd know he'd already established that.
And we were discussing it as well.


Doh!
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Old August 1st, 2009, 01:43 AM   #119 (permalink)
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You could replace that part of the figsby with your own (for lack of a better word) pipe, with the proper hole distance...
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Old August 1st, 2009, 09:47 PM   #120 (permalink)
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Hmmm... the neck sits high, and the saddles of that Wilkinson bridge can't go that high.
Plus I don't have a Tele bridge pickup lying around.

But I do have a humbucker and a ABR with studs...

So I been thinking....

Maybe this is the way to go?



(not overhasting things... )
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