tip..how to relic metal instantly

[Fatneck]

Here's atip for those interested in relicing, or for those like myself who just prefer rusted bridge saddles, springs, and screws because it makes for a stiffer + locked up setup...

Use rifle barrel browning solution. this is for older guns w/ browned metal finishes,, before the days of blueing. it is often labeled as 'plumb brown'.

it creates rust fast + in a controlled manner. also rust-colored patenas, and will strip off chrome. it gives aged look to real fender vintage style nickle saddles, and will strip the chrome off of the cheap allparts type saddles...leaving bare steal,, which btw sounds better imo...

please no anti-relic replies... I've posted this tip because it works increadibly well,, and because I was recently scanning the web,,+was suprised to find that (seams) noone uses/knows about it.

[fuzzferatu]

Nice! I have been planning a tele custom with a distressed still pickguard. This sounds like the solution (no pun intended).

[NewOldStock]

Just wanted to add that this stuff is easily available out here in the stix at most hardware stores. Usually anywhere that sells blackpowder/muzzleloading supplies. City folks will probably have to drive to their nearest Cabelas, Gander Mountain, Sportsman's Wherehouse, etc.

If you get gun blue on your skin it really smells and sticks with you for a couple days. Also, keep it out of children's reach. My ex-girlfriend's mother committed suicide by drinking a bottle, though I've had a few friends take the same path with anti-freeze.

And store it somewhere that you wouldn't mind seeing a big mess. It seems like after gun blue is opened it's only a short time before it eats though the container and gets all over everything in it's path. I normally throw it out after a couple months if I have see no projects coming up in the future.

At first I thought it was strange that I've came across so many gunsmiths at the TDPRI. But when you think about it, Telecasters kinda sway towards the country direction. Many of us mod firearms the same way we do guitars...encountering lots of mistakes along the way.

I'd never considered gun blue for relicing. I always thought muriatic acid would be the way to go. $5/gallan locally.

[octatonic]

I use etchant solution (the stuff you use on PCB's).
It works great on nickel hardware.

[Bill]

Originally Posted by Fatneck

it creates rust fast + in a controlled manner. also rust-colored patenas, and will strip off chrome. it gives aged look to real fender vintage style nickle saddles, and will strip the chrome off of the cheap allparts type saddles...leaving bare steal,, which btw sounds better imo...

So I have a '52 Tele and a previous owner chromed the original brass saddles. Would this remove the chrome and get it back to the original brass? Or would it eat through the brass or rust it out?

I really don't want to mess up a set of original saddles, but it would be nice to get it back to the original brass.

Any suggestions?

[NewOldStock]

I really don't want to mess up a set of original saddles, but it would be nice to get it back to the original brass.

Any suggestions?

If you have the cash...
You could order a new set through Musicians Friend for $19

Fender Vintage Tele Bridge Saddle Set

[Harry Stone]

Ssshhh....

You'll clue people in on my grand plan to build a tele with browned hardware and aqua fortis finished curly maple...

[markinlondon]

Or, try this. Just leave your JV Squier strat in the car overnight on a cold March night in Collier Street, Kent (elevation about 5ft). Instant reliced bridge parts, no elbow grease

[Fatneck]

Originally Posted by Bill

So I have a '52 Tele and a previous owner chromed the original brass saddles. Would this remove the chrome and get it back to the original brass? Or would it eat through the brass or rust it out?

I really don't want to mess up a set of original saddles, but it would be nice to get it back to the original brass.

Any suggestions?

Seems to react differently.. depending on the metal or aloy, but it really doesn't do too much harm to solid metals,, just the (cheap) plating.. +...it may require 2-3 applications to fully remove the chrome anyway...

[hugo]

What happens if you accidentally get some on the finish of the guitar? I know you remove the parts to do this, just in case you misunderstand my question.

[octatonic]

Originally Posted by hugo

What happens if you accidentally get some on the finish of the guitar? I know you remove the parts to do this, just in case you misunderstand my question.

I always remove the parts from the guitar- I don't imagine that it would be particularly good for the finish.

[Fatneck]

Originally Posted by hugo

What happens if you accidentally get some on the finish of the guitar? I know you remove the parts to do this, just in case you misunderstand my question.

yeah,, you wouldn't want to drip any on a nitro guitar for sure...it only takes a dab to turn a patena, + small drops on the set screws+ letset will rust them in enough to make them lock up pretty good.

but if you really want to get into it...remove the bridge saddles+parts for sure.

it works on strings as well...but too much near the saddles on treb strings+ they'll snap soon as you bend'em.

ps.. dont heat metal as describes in directions on bottle...just dab on and rinse off,, or soak, remove, let air hit the part, wait for desired look to set in, and then rinse off with water.

hopethathelps

[giale123]

okay i like this idea! gonna go order a bottle soon, but just wondering. I have a modern set of saddles (6 saddles instead of the rather vintage "3" saddle style), so ill have to remove that from the bridge, and dip it in this plum brown stuff? how long do i keep it in there for?
I dont want my stuff to rust to where i cant adjust the bridge anymore lol. get back to me THANKS FOR THE IDEA!

[Jeff1981]

Birchwood casey makes "Plum Brown" and their product is great, I have use it on some some old colt pistols and muzzle loaders for that sweet reliced look.

You can also pre-polish stripped metal parts to a like chrome finish prior to using the plum brown, just be sure to clean with acatone or eqivalent to remove oils/silicones prior to refinishing with plum brown. The plum brown on high polished metal will give you a finish that looks smooth and clean with a color somwhere in between copper and bronze for an awsome and unique look.

Here's a link to the plum brown...

http://sport.birchwoodcasey.com/Fini...1-b39c418ed211

If you dont mind spending the $40 on the bigger bottle I would get that and a small pyrex dish and let your fully assembled bridge sit in it for as long as the directions describe and let it air out until you get your desired results and repeat if needed, leaving the bridge together will rid you of having problems re-assembling the bridge and setting it up, also it will give you a more natural reliced look because every piece is sitting in place as original guitars have reliced over the years.

Any of the chemical process cotings can leave your eqipment with a foul stench due to the process not being full nuetralized, you can cure this problem by making some thick paste from distilled water and baking soda and you want it thick not runny. You then take your paste and gently rub it all over your parts making sure to work it in all the small areas and let sit a short while(5-10 mins or so) and then you can rinse the part clean and repeat the nutralization process if needed until the odor is gone.

Hope this helps


Jeff