And yes another: Callaham aluminum shield.

[TeleGeir]

So I see Callaham has an aluminum pickguard shield:

Originally Posted by Callaham

These are made from 0.014 thick 6061-T6 aluminum just like what was used on the early 60's strats. We have made them more versatile by incorporating both the 50's 8-hole pattern and the early 60's 11-hole pattern. It is designed to work with almost anybody's traditional strat® guard, with slightly larger holes for clearance. This shield is far superior to foil by allowing you to tighten pots and switches firmly without fear of breaking through a thin foil. You will no longer need ground straps from pot to pot thus eliminating a potential ground loop and unwanted noise.

Good idea?

Geir :)

[Mark Davis]

Yes much more effective than just the routes shielded.

[TeleGeir]

Thanks Mark.

Geir :)

[reverbbb]

An electrical engineer told me that copper blocks RF & EMI. BUT! Aluminum is a lousy shield for RF. Most of us really have trouble with the EMI more than the RF. But hey, if your going to do something, why not do it for both?

EMI noise is noticed when, the closer you get to the amp, the louder the noise. But realize, the the front of your pups are always exposed to this phenomenon.

RF is noticed when you use cheap cables and you hear a radio station. Sometimes it can pickup other indistinquishable sources and just sounds like static (similar to EMI but more tonal/frequency based).

My choice would be to always go with copper when ever attempting to shield.

[TeleGeir]

Originally Posted by reverbbb

An electrical engineer told me that copper blocks RF & EMI. BUT! Aluminum is a lousy shield for RF. Most of us really have trouble with the EMI more than the RF. But hey, if your going to do something, why not do it for both?.

Hey, I am asking you guys, not the other way around. You're asking a rhetorical question I know.

So, what the story? Do I need a copper foil instead, or maybe between the aluminum and guard?

Who supplies copper ones?

I meant to learn this stuff when I was young. Applied for a radio electronics education. But they had 400 appplications for 40 places, and decided by a draw. So I ended up with another career...

Geir :)

[Tom P.]

Just yer typical Callaham product. High quality and gets the job done. Makes tin foil seem like....tin foil.

[The Snowman]

I had a Callaham in my Clapton but then on a whim switched to Copper...definately works better....but it's strictly a matter of choice...I would think that any Callaham product is worth the $$$ and performs better than expected.....but my choice is definately Copper.....good luck in yer quest...later don

[RickC]

who makes a copper pickguard shield and where can I get one?

My experience with original aluminum shields on 60's Strats was always very good; they work

/rick

[RelicStrat]

Copper shields

Never tried one so I can't comment.

[TeleGeir]

Originally Posted by RelicStrat

Copper shields

Never tried one so I can't comment.

Thanks for that link Randy!

BTW, folks: Those guys sell sheet copper that you can use to line the sides and bottom of the cavities too. Is that worthwhile or a bit over the top? Does pickguard shield take care of most of it?

Geir :)

[Tom P.]

BTW, folks: Those guys sell sheet copper that you can use to line the sides and bottom of the cavities too. Is that worthwhile or a bit over the top? Does pickguard shield take care of most of it?

I use shielding paint, other may insist copper is the way to go. Either way, if you don't do the cavity, the jobs only half done.

[reverbbb]

I copper taped my cavity. But I had to be sure that the adhesive did not create an insulator between the pieces. So, when I got done with mine, I soldered a dab of solder that contacted between the overlapping layers. I grounded that layer into the common ground of the electronic. I then put copper tape on the backside of my pickguard around the pups and under the pot bodies. I then used a ground lug ring between the copper tape and the pots and ran a wire again to the common ground lug.

Many modern pickguards come with an aluminum shield already in place. This is probably good enough. However, I found that there is a insulative coating on this foil and the ground lug does not make contact. Therefore, you cannot tie that shielding plane into the common ground.

I was concerned about all this shielding sucking some tone out of the pups. But instead, the noise went down and the tone shines through better.

The next string change, I will try to remember to take the pickguard off of my Strat and take some pics.

[RelicStrat]

Thanks for that link Randy!

You're welcome Geir!

[Bloozcat]

An alternative to copper foil shielding and carbon based shielding paints is copper shielding paint. I've used it with great success. After applying 2 coats of the paint to the control/pickup cavity, I consistantly get readings of 3-5 ohms resistance. It's easy to apply and won't mess up you guitar's finish if you accidently get some on it (provided that you wipe it off right away) The paint is called CuPro-Cote and can be found at the link below. It is pricey at $29.95 for a 4 oz can, but one can will do 3-4 guitars.

For the pickguard shielding I use a copper foil sheet that I buy at my local Michaels Craft Shop. They offer two gauges (thicknesses). I usually use the thicker of the two. It is heavy enough that it won't tear when tightening pots against it and it can still be cut with an exacto knife...a sharp one that is.

http://www.lessemf.com/paint.html

[57or62]

I have the Callaham shield installed on my 50's vintage player. Does quiet things down a bit and is a nice piece of hardware. One thing I don't like about 8 hole fifties style pickguards with a shield on it is that they don't seal very tightly and dust can get into the cavity in some spots. I had an aluminum shield from Acme guitar works on my 62 RI and shielded the cavity with copper foil from Allparts. Took about 2-3 hrs and I soldered all pieces together to ensure continuity (even the jack cavity and worm hole). Be VERY careful if you are installing a ground lug in the pot cavity, even using a very small sheet metal screw, I tightened it just enough to protrude through the back of the body (duh!). The results are pretty impressive, but if you are a basement wannabe player like me with two young children, noise is usually the least of my problems. Playing past 1 on my Deluxe reverb is a rarity!

[TeleGeir]

Originally Posted by 57or62

The results are pretty impressive, but if you are a basement wannabe player like me with two young children, noise is usually the least of my problems. Playing past 1 on my Deluxe reverb is a rarity!

Yeah, that would be my situation too. I bit of a shame, I'd like to get to drive my Mesa Nomad a bit more...

Geir :)

[blackstrat]

Just wanted to give you two links:

Cooper shields for Strat or tele:
http://www.monteallums.com/Product_links.html

Strat metal shield Cheaper than Callaham:
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/srs7/...kguard+shields

The link is to actual Fender Brand shields. $8.99 vs. callahams $13.00. You have to punch one extra hole if you have an 11 hole pickguard. I use a dollar store paper punch to make the hole and it worked fine!

[Chris (UK)]

...You might consider a stainless steel (non-magnetic) pickguard from these guys...

www.preciousmetalproducts.co.uk

I've ordered 1 Strat and 2 Tele guards from them - I'll let you know more when I receive them.

Originally Posted by blackstrat

$8.99 vs. callahams $13.00

That's because the Fender one is a 'thin foil', whereas the Callaham one is a 0.014" sheet that the pot lock washers won't cut through. It provides reliable ground continuity between pot casings (so don't use wire links between them or you'll have a ground loop). IMO the Callaham is better value.