Guitarfetish.com has steel blocks for your MIM and import trems

JKSteger · July 2nd, 2008, 09:56 AM

Was just looking on the guitarfetish.com website and under tremolo's you can order a full size steel block for your MIM and Asian import strats! Jay says the blocks trem arm are sized for the Fender standard trems so you must purchase a new trem arm too.

I've ordered mine, UPS says it will be here Monday!!

http://store.guitarfetish.com/sosttrblfima.html

**One thing I just thought of. By looking at the picture, the block looks a little "longer" than the small zinc sized one that come on the Squire Affinity and Bullets. I'm not sure if the block will fit the smaller thickness of the guitar or not. If anyone knows, pass the info along here.**

Thanks,

Jeremy

Dauntless · July 2nd, 2008, 10:36 AM

Waiting for the "Brown Truck" as I type

JimInMO · July 2nd, 2008, 11:50 AM

Hi, I'm a newbie here. First post/reply. I suspect you will either have to leave the back cover off or shave about 3/16 off the block. I was offered a standard block trem and after some measurments that was my determination. It looked like that would have left enough depth for Fender bullet or ball ends. Turned it down as the screw holes didn't match either. It's a project guitar but not quite that involved. Good luck with that.

WallyArms · July 2nd, 2008, 01:21 PM

I have been considering upgrading my (MIM) Standard Strat trem for some time. I recently blocked it for tuning stability (I go back and forth from standard to open G a lot, and I don't use the whammy). Will an upgrade make any difference now (with it blocked)?

cloink50 · July 2nd, 2008, 01:22 PM

**One thing I just thought of. By looking at the picture, the block looks a little "longer" than the small zinc sized one that come on the Squire Affinity and Bullets. I'm not sure if the block will fit the smaller thickness of the guitar or not. If anyone knows, pass the info along here.**

-----------

Mine came yesterday and I tried it in an Affinity. It protrudes about 1/8".

CatfishStudios · July 2nd, 2008, 01:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JKSteger

Was just looking on the guitarfetish.com website and under tremolo's you can order a full size steel block for your MIM and Asian import strats! Jay says the blocks trem arm are sized for the Fender standard trems so you must purchase a new trem arm too.

I've ordered mine, UPS says it will be here Monday!!

http://store.guitarfetish.com/sosttrblfima.html

**One thing I just thought of. By looking at the picture, the block looks a little "longer" than the small zinc sized one that come on the Squire Affinity and Bullets. I'm not sure if the block will fit the smaller thickness of the guitar or not. If anyone knows, pass the info along here.**

Thanks,

Jeremy

The block will go bast the body in the rear of affinity's, as they are thinner bodied.

JKSteger · July 2nd, 2008, 01:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cloink50

**One thing I just thought of. By looking at the picture, the block looks a little "longer" than the small zinc sized one that come on the Squire Affinity and Bullets. I'm not sure if the block will fit the smaller thickness of the guitar or not. If anyone knows, pass the info along here.**

-----------

Mine came yesterday and I tried it in an Affinity. It protrudes about 1/8".

Good Grief! Now I will have to buy a MIM body from the classified or ebay. I also have a SX from Rondo music that is full thickness, but I don't like the neck and the neck pocket is too big for a Mighty Mite replacement neck.

Jeremy

robt57 · July 2nd, 2008, 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CatfishStudios

The block will go bast the body in the rear of affinity's, as they are thinner bodied.

Shim your neck to tilt it back and raise the bridge up off the body.
You can also block it in the cavity to only dive so it won't go out of tune if you break a string. But that is a different thread. ;)

markw51 · July 2nd, 2008, 02:17 PM

I see they also sell a block for MIA Strats.

Any point in replacing the stock block?

JKSteger · July 2nd, 2008, 03:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by markw51

I see they also sell a block for MIA Strats.

Any point in replacing the stock block?

I don't know about it on the MIA strats.

I would rather not buy a new body. Anyone know how to trim off the 1/8th inch "overhang"? All I have access to is a wheel grinder.

Jeremy

Dauntless · July 3rd, 2008, 07:47 AM

I have 2 Squier Strats.

Vintage Vibe 50s and a Deluxe.

The block fits neither as the hole for the trem bar is off center from the trem bar hole on the bridge plate.

It is a very nice block, just doesn't fit what I want it to fit!

I got a friend who has a Mexican Strat and I'll probably put it on his when I change his pickups out for him in August.
Looking at the way it's layed out, it'll probably be a perfect fit.
I would imagine that it would fit the CIJs and MIJs pretty well also.

But for me, no go!
Now, if I could just find a bridge plate that matches...

Mic Stand · July 3rd, 2008, 09:48 PM

I didn't even notice the 1st paragraph said it only fits 1/2 of the MIMs. Argh.

Would it be possible for one of you guys to do some measurements?

iansmitchell · July 3rd, 2008, 11:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JKSteger

I don't know about it on the MIA strats.

I would rather not buy a new body. Anyone know how to trim off the 1/8th inch "overhang"? All I have access to is a wheel grinder.

Jeremy

Solid steel is tough, man, you can try it, but the grinder might need a new cover...

BadHorsie · July 4th, 2008, 01:29 AM

Just take it to a local machine shop and have them remove the material . It will not cost much and it will look good to boot.

iansmitchell · July 4th, 2008, 01:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BadHorsie

Just take it to a local machine shop and have them remove the material . It will not cost much and it will look good to boot.

+1.
Auto mechanic could work too.

Dauntless · July 4th, 2008, 07:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mic Stand

I didn't even notice the 1st paragraph said it only fits 1/2 of the MIMs. Argh.

Would it be possible for one of you guys to do some measurements?

It wasn't noticed because it was added to the original.

JKSteger · July 4th, 2008, 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BadHorsie

Just take it to a local machine shop and have them remove the material . It will not cost much and it will look good to boot.

We have a local fabrication shop in town. they have done some great jobs when I needed something made or welded. I think I will take some measurements, mark then have them use the band saw or whatever they use down there to cut the excess off the bottom of the block. Oh and I will have them enlarge or drill a new trem arm hole to line up with the one on the block. All of this will probably cost me $20.00. It seems everything at the fab shop is $20.00 to cut and weld.

Jeremy

robt57 · July 4th, 2008, 10:53 AM

Well I don't know how deep the holes are and how close the string ends are to the back edge of the block. My USA Fender Trem, well the block for example is such that if I used bullets or def-tone string the bullet end is flush with the back of the block. So the ends would just stick out if the block was machined shorter. I guess drilling them
a touch deeper would take care of that. But don't forget to get the machine shop to do it while it is there if you go that route.

Just set up the guitar as I said in my first post. It is simple, reversible, and would put the block inside the desired amount. KISS I say.

You may even have enough range to lower the saddles with out shimming the neck after you raise the bridge the 1/8" Use the "Ron Kirn" Tubing method if a 6 screw, or just raise the posts if of the 2 post ilk.

Playing with the action higher builds character anyway...

cloink50 · July 7th, 2008, 12:29 PM

Update on my post from last week......

I've been playing my Affinty with the "oversized" steel block for a couple of days and decided to leave it in without modifying the length. I really like the added sustain and zingy harmonics. I recommend finding a way to work around the 1/8 inch problem. I may end up modding the back cover to provide the clearance for the block while hiding the springs and claw. On the other hand, I don't notice the block's movement when I work the vibrato. Bottomline....whether I do the mod or not, that block is staying right there.

udimet720 · July 7th, 2008, 07:14 PM

There were a couple of threads where Ronkirn showed the use of silicone spacers for the trem screws. He advocated this to help improve tuning stability. I know one of them was "The Dalmore" build thread.

You can also try searching for "silicone" or "silicone spacers"

Based on the instructions he gave there and in a couple of other spots, I'm pretty sure this would get you the 1/8" clearance. He said that length was about 3/16-1/4". Then you compress them by about 50% when screwing down the trem.

I recently made this change. but, I haven't had time to judge the results. It's really quick and easy to do. It only took me about 5 minutes and didn't bother taking off the strings. You can get the silicone tubing at a model shop. It's used for model airplane fuel line.

Just a suggestion...

romo · July 14th, 2008, 09:47 AM

I installed one of these on my MIM strat today. Sounds pretty nice...definite improvement over the crappy thin block I had in mine before. My bridge was actually one of the import trems that this block "doesn't" fit. It fits fine but the hole for the trem arm doesn't line up with the one on the bridge. I never use the trem anyway, I use 5 springs and that fixes the bridge in position pretty well.

guitarzan13 · July 14th, 2008, 02:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by romo

I installed one of these on my MIM strat today. Sounds pretty nice...definite improvement over the crappy thin block I had in mine before. My bridge was actually one of the import trems that this block "doesn't" fit. It fits fine but the hole for the trem arm doesn't line up with the one on the bridge. I never use the trem anyway, I use 5 springs and that fixes the bridge in position pretty well.

What year is your MIM?

romo · July 14th, 2008, 03:32 PM

It was made in 1999

Mic Stand · July 15th, 2008, 06:06 PM

I sent GFS an e-mail asking about the block fit on the MIM - here's the response:

Just look at the trem top plate - If the hole for the arm sits just BEHIND the three screws that hold the plate to the block- it won't work- if it sits just IN FRONT of the three screws it will fit

I have a mid 90s MIM, and the hole for the arm sits behind the three screws.

July 2nd, 2008, 09:56 AM	#1 (permalink)
JKSteger TDPRI Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Griffin, GA Age: 34 Posts: 51	Guitarfetish.com has steel blocks for your MIM and import trems Was just looking on the guitarfetish.com website and under tremolo's you can order a full size steel block for your MIM and Asian import strats! Jay says the blocks trem arm are sized for the Fender standard trems so you must purchase a new trem arm too. I've ordered mine, UPS says it will be here Monday!! http://store.guitarfetish.com/sosttrblfima.html One thing I just thought of. By looking at the picture, the block looks a little "longer" than the small zinc sized one that come on the Squire Affinity and Bullets. I'm not sure if the block will fit the smaller thickness of the guitar or not. If anyone knows, pass the info along here. Thanks, Jeremy

July 2nd, 2008, 10:36 AM	#2 (permalink)
Dauntless Tele-Meister Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Cincinnati, Ohio Age: 53 Posts: 144 3 Photos	Waiting for the "Brown Truck" as I type __________________ Gene "Dauntless" Flannery "If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to view every problem as a nail." -Maslow-

July 2nd, 2008, 01:21 PM	#4 (permalink)
WallyArms Tele-Holic Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: TN Posts: 897	I have been considering upgrading my (MIM) Standard Strat trem for some time. I recently blocked it for tuning stability (I go back and forth from standard to open G a lot, and I don't use the whammy). Will an upgrade make any difference now (with it blocked)? __________________ Save The Hymnals!

July 2nd, 2008, 01:22 PM	#5 (permalink)
cloink50 TDPRI Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Western MI Posts: 19	One thing I just thought of. By looking at the picture, the block looks a little "longer" than the small zinc sized one that come on the Squire Affinity and Bullets. I'm not sure if the block will fit the smaller thickness of the guitar or not. If anyone knows, pass the info along here. ----------- Mine came yesterday and I tried it in an Affinity. It protrudes about 1/8". __________________ _________________________________ "Hey! Are you a chicken or a pig?" --- Robert Newcombe "..... make mistakes, please...." p.103

July 3rd, 2008, 07:47 AM	#11 (permalink)
Dauntless Tele-Meister Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Cincinnati, Ohio Age: 53 Posts: 144 3 Photos	I have 2 Squier Strats. Vintage Vibe 50s and a Deluxe. The block fits neither as the hole for the trem bar is off center from the trem bar hole on the bridge plate. It is a very nice block, just doesn't fit what I want it to fit! I got a friend who has a Mexican Strat and I'll probably put it on his when I change his pickups out for him in August. Looking at the way it's layed out, it'll probably be a perfect fit. I would imagine that it would fit the CIJs and MIJs pretty well also. But for me, no go! Now, if I could just find a bridge plate that matches... __________________ Gene "Dauntless" Flannery "If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to view every problem as a nail." -Maslow-

July 2nd, 2008, 11:50 AM	#3 (permalink)
JimInMO NEW MEMBER! Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Missouri USA Age: 65 Posts: 6	Hi, I'm a newbie here. First post/reply. I suspect you will either have to leave the back cover off or shave about 3/16 off the block. I was offered a standard block trem and after some measurments that was my determination. It looked like that would have left enough depth for Fender bullet or ball ends. Turned it down as the screw holes didn't match either. It's a project guitar but not quite that involved. Good luck with that.

July 2nd, 2008, 02:17 PM	#9 (permalink)
markw51 Tele-Meister Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: rockville, md. Posts: 283	I see they also sell a block for MIA Strats. Any point in replacing the stock block?

July 3rd, 2008, 09:48 PM	#12 (permalink)
Mic Stand NEW MEMBER! Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Canada Posts: 9	I didn't even notice the 1st paragraph said it only fits 1/2 of the MIMs. Argh. Would it be possible for one of you guys to do some measurements?

July 4th, 2008, 01:29 AM	#14 (permalink)
BadHorsie Tele-Meister Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Texas, USA Age: 37 Posts: 100 2 Photos	Just take it to a local machine shop and have them remove the material . It will not cost much and it will look good to boot.

July 4th, 2008, 10:53 AM	#18 (permalink)
robt57 Friend of Leo's Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Lost Yankee in Nashville Age: 51 Posts: 2,564 16 Photos	Well I don't know how deep the holes are and how close the string ends are to the back edge of the block. My USA Fender Trem, well the block for example is such that if I used bullets or def-tone string the bullet end is flush with the back of the block. So the ends would just stick out if the block was machined shorter. I guess drilling them a touch deeper would take care of that. But don't forget to get the machine shop to do it while it is there if you go that route. Just set up the guitar as I said in my first post. It is simple, reversible, and would put the block inside the desired amount. KISS I say. You may even have enough range to lower the saddles with out shimming the neck after you raise the bridge the 1/8" Use the "Ron Kirn" Tubing method if a 6 screw, or just raise the posts if of the 2 post ilk. Playing with the action higher builds character anyway... __________________ Leo's Great, Leo's Good, let us thank him for our... Twang!

July 7th, 2008, 12:29 PM	#19 (permalink)
cloink50 TDPRI Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Western MI Posts: 19	Update on my post from last week...... I've been playing my Affinty with the "oversized" steel block for a couple of days and decided to leave it in without modifying the length. I really like the added sustain and zingy harmonics. I recommend finding a way to work around the 1/8 inch problem. I may end up modding the back cover to provide the clearance for the block while hiding the springs and claw. On the other hand, I don't notice the block's movement when I work the vibrato. Bottomline....whether I do the mod or not, that block is staying right there. __________________ _________________________________ "Hey! Are you a chicken or a pig?" --- Robert Newcombe "..... make mistakes, please...." p.103

July 7th, 2008, 07:14 PM	#20 (permalink)
udimet720 TDPRI Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Tustin, CA Age: 34 Posts: 15	There were a couple of threads where Ronkirn showed the use of silicone spacers for the trem screws. He advocated this to help improve tuning stability. I know one of them was "The Dalmore" build thread. You can also try searching for "silicone" or "silicone spacers" Based on the instructions he gave there and in a couple of other spots, I'm pretty sure this would get you the 1/8" clearance. He said that length was about 3/16-1/4". Then you compress them by about 50% when screwing down the trem. I recently made this change. but, I haven't had time to judge the results. It's really quick and easy to do. It only took me about 5 minutes and didn't bother taking off the strings. You can get the silicone tubing at a model shop. It's used for model airplane fuel line. Just a suggestion...

July 14th, 2008, 09:47 AM	#21 (permalink)
romo Tele-Meister Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Toledo, Ohio Posts: 161	I installed one of these on my MIM strat today. Sounds pretty nice...definite improvement over the crappy thin block I had in mine before. My bridge was actually one of the import trems that this block "doesn't" fit. It fits fine but the hole for the trem arm doesn't line up with the one on the bridge. I never use the trem anyway, I use 5 springs and that fixes the bridge in position pretty well.

July 14th, 2008, 03:32 PM	#23 (permalink)
romo Tele-Meister Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Toledo, Ohio Posts: 161	It was made in 1999

July 15th, 2008, 06:06 PM	#24 (permalink)
Mic Stand NEW MEMBER! Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Canada Posts: 9	I sent GFS an e-mail asking about the block fit on the MIM - here's the response: Just look at the trem top plate - If the hole for the arm sits just BEHIND the three screws that hold the plate to the block- it won't work- if it sits just IN FRONT of the three screws it will fit I have a mid 90s MIM, and the hole for the arm sits behind the three screws.