OK... so I promised... here ya are. . . .

[Ronkirn]

Ok.. so.. I promised….. a Strat build….. I’ll try to drag out the Day it would normally take me to get the first filler coats on it, so a few more can absorb the project…

First, my apologies to someone that did a Spruce Strat a few months ago, and to the Spruce Caster of recent history to, This isn’t a shot at up-staging y’all, it’s just that this happens to be the next Strat I received an order for.

Sitka Spruce is the lumber used for the sound board, (top) on Martin’s finest, as well as Gibson and about anyone else making high quality Acoustic Guitars, It is also used exclusively by Steinway & Sons for the sound boards in their finest Pianos, yep even the Concert Grand “D”. Everyone else making a serious piano uses it too. Further it is found in quality Violins, Harps, and just about any musical instrument where resonant acoustic qualities are paramount to the overall quality of the voice of the instrument. I can’t wait to hear this baby.

First we cut the lumber to the appropriate length, and check the growth rings…





Note that I have marked the angle of the rings where the two pieces will be joined. I want to joint the lumber at the same angle. This dramatically reduces the appearance of the joint as seen in the end grain.

I adjust the guide on the jointer to approximately the same angle as the growth rings in the Spruce, then joint both pieces…



I’m going to interject the Finished blank so you can seem or not see as the case may be, the joint….



and on . . .

Ron Kirn

[thaus]

Cool! Finally a strat build......thank you Mr. Kirn!

[Ronkirn]

Strat Build 2

Now, let’s back up a few hours, to the glue-up…..

A good coat of glue and good clamping technique is the simple way to a quality blank, and/or joint….



Since the edges are jointed at an angle, I cannot simply clamp them as per normal because the wet glue acts as a great lubricant and the pieces will slip apart, so additional support is required to keep everything planar until the glue dries… here’s a few shots, that says it all…







Regarding glue.... recently one of the wood working magazines did a test of the various glues available to wood workers today.... the winner, hands down, was good 'ol yellow wood worker's glue, beating Gorilla Glue (polyurethane), Epoxy, CA, Formaldehyde resin, you name it, on all counts, the yeller stuff won. With the one exception of very resinous lumber like Cocobolo, for those the Poly based glues were best.

now. . . to let ‘em dry.

Ron Kirn

[Flat357]

Nice Ron .
Good of you to take the time . I love this type of thread .

Why is it guys tend to glue 2 or 3 pieces , as opposed to using 1 piece ?
I can answer my own question with some optional answers , but I thought it might be good to get the hatchet buried on the matter by a pro .

[milkshape]

Thanks for keeping your promise, run the lumber through and then flip one piece to get a flat blank and invisible joint, nice. I imagine that spruce doesn't come cheap in the dimensions needed for a strat.

[fletch]

Hi Ron,

Great to see a Strat build from you , I am looking forward to it.

[Ronkirn]

Yep. . . Spruce is more costly than most choice lumbers you may choose. Finding a one piece of Sitka 13 inches wide is a problem, since Sitka used in musical instruments is only acceptable if it’s ¼ sawn. Itt would require a tree at least 3 feet in diameter and the outer rings would be considerably different from the inner rings, giving a inconsistant appearence, some don't mind, some do.. Also finding real Sitka can be problematic, since several other “Pines” are routinely substituted for aeronautical applications. Those suppliers have no concept of the importance of using the real deal in a musical instrument. To them a Spar or Rib, is a spar or a rib.

The tighter the rings, the better. . generally speaking.... if the rings are far apart, the softer wood in the light areas can dint quite easily due to the great variation in density between the light and dark rings, the dark rings are as hard as Maple, whereas the lighter areas can be as soft as Balsa. But the bottom line. . . one piece, 2 piece, don't mean diddly...

While I didn’t count the rings in the 8 inch wide section, I’m guessing they represent about a hundred and fifty years of growth. I have some 1400 year old Black Ash, with rings the same density, so I’m making an educated guess.

I’m gonna be tied up till Thursday, strange, some guys pay money and actually expect their guitar. So I reckin’ I’ll get ‘em done, before moving on to the next phase on Paul’s (gonna be a new member) Spruce Goose (but it won’t fly)

Ron Kirn

[Beatbx]

[Durvish]

Nice! A Ronkirn strat build!

[boris bubbanov]

My Dad had a big batch of spruce since I was little; he's been resawing it when he has the time, for freeflight model airplanes builds.

I think he has resawn almost all of it; he likes guitars but likes airplanes better, and would not want to see his precious wood end up in a guitar body.

It has a tremendously advantageous strength to weight ratio.

[Tele Tex]

Go my Brother!!!!!!!!!! When you get that one done i want a tele! LOL


Goodluck

[Ronkirn]

i want a tele! LOL

mite just happen.


Ron Kirn

[Ronkirn]

So I gotta few minutes between assembling one and all the other stuff that needed dooin…

So I have this nice 2 inch thick piece of spruce, with a Strat body lurking somewhere inside. I guess I better get to removing what doesn’t look like a Strat…

This is pretty elementary My Dear Watso*…. Oh, wait, that was something else…..

While still basic, I shot this step too…. Take your trusty template and draw the outline..





Then I waddled over to the band saw and band sawed it….



and this is what happens…




Ron Kirn

[Tele Tex]

Originally Posted by Ronkirn

mite just happen.


Ron Kirn

Lets make it happen , Luv your work Man!!!! i see .....................a Tele!

[Ronkirn]

Now, 3 inches is a bit much, so there are several ways to bring it down to the correct thickness. A planer wide enough to take a rough at about 13 ½ inches will do nicely, or a panel sander, my choice in this case…



I just keep running it through until 1 ¾ is reached….



now it’s time to get serious…..

Until next time. . .

Ron Kirn

[Flat357]

Thanks

[wisdom 86]

Thank you Mr. Kirn. I can't wait to see a recessed output jack in full color photo glory.

[bobthecanadian]

Hi Ron,

I am happy to be along for the ride on this project. I will be back daily to check in on it. I am pretty sure that I will have a few questions along the way.

Looks good so far!

Bob

[Ronkirn]

I'll try to get a bit of shaping done today.

Ron Kirn

[Telenator]

I always appreciate seeing these build threads. I documented my Ric-style guitars when I made them and found out what a pain in the butt it is to take photos and organize them on top of doing the wood work. Thanks for letting us in on the project!

[ehawley]

Hi Ron...I'm all eyes on this one. I always wanted to see a strat build. They have one over at www.cnczone.com in thier musical instument design and construction forum HERE
I love your stuff and can't wait to see how this ends up!
Cheers
ED

[Ronkirn]

Strat Build 5

Time to mount the Template, I use screws, I don’t trust double stick tape to be secure against the pressure that can be applied.





adjust the Router bit, in this case in a router table, so that the bearing is making secure contact with the template and makes a clean cut.



Routing around the periphery of the body is pretty straight forward, Just proceed slowly at the apex of the 4 large convex curves tear-out is a real possibility if you get to fast.




RK

[Ronkirn]

Now, once we have completed one pass all the way around, we direct attention to the Tremolo cutout. I do this in several passes, the first cut removes about ½ of the ¾ inch depth. I use a quickie block on the router to set the bit..





This will remove approx 3/8 inch deep section of the cutout….



I not set the router depth using a second ¾ inch thick block, this will cut the tremolo cutout to the finish depth of ¾.. Oh, this is not critical, and for those detail oriented builders… here’s a tip how to achieve a true vintage appearance, make these routs as sloppy as possible.



rk

[Ronkirn]

Now I take the final cut….



To rout the deep section the tremolo block will reside in, I have a block I made to fit into the spring cavity.



Now, using the previously routed edged within the body as a guide, I set the router to cut about 1 ¼ deep and buzz away.



You can see where I had set the bit a little too low and the collet burned the body just a touch. Not to worry, I sand the body down in the panel sander just a touch, so such machining marks will be totally removed.

I now adjust the router depth to cut all but 1/8 inch that will form the lip at the top of the tremolo cutout.



Checking this way, I am absolutely sure there will be no unfortunate surprises when I lower the router into the hole.

rk