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| The Stomp Box Effects pedals and their effect on your playing. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Clarkdale, AZ
Posts: 1,356
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1-Spot/Brick Power Question
I've been using the Brick (Dunlop) to power my board for the past couple of years. No issues until a couple of weeks ago, when it died, i.e., no power. I ordered and just received a 1-Spot as a replacement. Last night, it occurred to me to try to power the Brick with the 1-Spot - using the main power adapter part of the 1-Spot to plug into and power the Brick (to then connect to my pedals). And, it worked!
My question is - is this an okay solution? Or am I potentially damaging my pedals? Seems to me like everything is working, but I know there are a lot of people here who know way more than I do, so I thought I would post this for any feedback. Thanks. PS - Anyone just use batteries, no power supply? I used to and am thinking of going back to its simplicity (and slightly better tone for some pedals).
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#2 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
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I don't know the answer to your specific question, but I've got a Brick. The Achilles' Heel is the Brick's power supply. I've had to repair the thin POS cable in that unit several times.
I'm going to order another power supply just so I have a back up in case the thing craps out at a gig.
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Martin ___________________________ E. Christina Herr & Wild Frontier Americana Motel |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Clarkdale, AZ
Posts: 1,356
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Thanks. Yeah, I think the power supply isn't working. When I use my new 1-Spot power supply, it does work. Probably should just use the 1-Spot alone, with its daisy chain.
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Sunny Tampa, Florida
Age: 56
Posts: 1,409
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Quote:
If you are feeding 9VDC into the brick you will be getting 7.5 or less out of it. Representing the minimum drop of standard regulator ICs. I doubt that will hurt anything, but none of it will work as it should. A replacement generic wall wart will work. Most that are rated at a nominal 12VDC will put out well over that if not heavily loaded. So a generic thing from Rat Shack or X-Mart will work if it is tip negative. I'd get something rated over 1,000 mA to be sure it won't get pulled down below 12V and would expect that to work well. You might also find an adjustable wall wart with a 14 or 14.4 volt setting which would be perfect. It's gotta be DC and Tip Negative and 12-15 Volts. There is also the fine science of beating the wall wart open and replacing the internal fuse in the transformer to repair it. But that's for technologically advanced cheapskates. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Clarkdale, AZ
Posts: 1,356
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Thanks, Ron. That is very helpful.
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#6 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
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That's exactly what you should do. The 1-Spot is a great little unit, and works very well with multiple pedals. I take it that your rationale in using the Brick at all was to use it as kind of a power distributor to the stomp boxes? If so, skip the middleman and just use the daisy chain from the 1-Spot.
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“I crawl like a viper through these suburban streets..." |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: San Diego
Age: 31
Posts: 116
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Wouldn't go back to batteries if you paid me. No matter how much you paid me, I prob still couldn't afford the 9 volts, even at Costco prices. So sucks when you think you can get 2 gigs out of a 9 volt and it dies in the middle of the last set of night 2. Damn.
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2010 American Nashville Tele, Crybaby Waa, Boss CS3 compressor, Boosto Grande clean boost, Sparkle Drive, Cool cat transparent od, Fulltone OCD, Boss CE-5 chorus, Boss TR-2, Delta lab digital delay, 1969 fender super reverb. www.corywilkinsband.com |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Clarkdale, AZ
Posts: 1,356
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Just rewired my pedal board with the 1-Spot. Simple & easy. I'm once again a happy camper.
Thanks for all of the useful advice.
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