MXR Classic Overdrive M-66

[Anchoret]

Originally Posted by Jack Deville

What is the downside to SMD technology?

It's not that there's any big downside to SMT, but it sure as hell isn't "Custom Shop" technology!

I mean think about it! It's hilarious. SMT defines mass robotic production.

Never mind that "Built from the ground up with the best available components" apparently means the cheapest possible PCB-mount plastic jacks and pots and chippy passives.

Obviously, words have just ceased to have any meaning at all.

[Jack Deville]

Naturally, opinions are always valid, but I wouldn't pass a blanket judgement so quickly.
There are LOTS of nice SMD components available. Again, often the tolerances are tighter and parts are subsequently more consistent leading to a more stable and "better behaved" product. SMD frequently offers higher mechanical integrity than through-hole technology as well.

What is "custom shop" technology? Old, big, loose-tolerance worn out parts that have been sitting in a dark warehouse for 40 years? Chunky wires EVERYWHERE, poorly aligned mounting holes and minimal mechanical integrity?

I'm playing devils advocate, but I will readily admit an admiration for nice SMD layout and good assembly practices.

FWIW, the M-66 is not true-bypass as stated in the owners manual.

[Anchoret]

Originally Posted by Jack Deville

What is "custom shop" technology?

If it means anything at all (and apparently it doesn't), it means handmade or very limited production, the exact opposite of robotic mass SMT.

I'm playing devils advocate, but I will readily admit an admiration for nice SMD layout and good assembly practices.

No, I'm fine with competently produced SMDs, but their whole point is to be the cheapest, fastest, modern mass production.

FWIW, the M-66 is not true-bypass as stated in the owners manual.

That's amazing. That clunky, gritty big switch isn't even true bypass? Man, what a joke! I hadn't even bothered to look at it when it was apart.

[schenkadere]

"Custom Shop" is a lot of bunk...obviously. It's a way for mass producers to appear boutique.

That said, I am loving my Custom Shop MXR Script Phase 90 with LED...I'm sure there's nothing special about the build...I just like the sound and the fact that I can use an adapter.

[mikespe]

Can anyone compare this pedal to the Bad Monkey? Does it sound the same or completely different?

[ASC67]

Originally Posted by mikespe

Can anyone compare this pedal to the Bad Monkey? Does it sound the same or completely different?

We already have , read the thread.

[Chiogtr4x]

After having owned the GC/MXR Classic Distortion, trying to like it but ultimately not, then having it break down (barely been used) then reading this thread about the Classic Overdrive, I think I'll keep the $30. I have a Bad Monkey (which I do think is a great buy) and if this thing sounds like a BM but tonally a step down, plus my worry about the pedal's reliability- I will pass, which is hard for me to do!

[ASC67]

I wouldn't say it's tonally a step down, it sounds good just not as much tone control as the BM.

[Chiogtr4x]

Originally Posted by ASC67

I wouldn't say it's tonally a step down, it sounds good just not as much tone control as the BM.

I did not mean to imply it doesn't sound as good, but if it doesn't have as much tone control, then its a step down in features, or utility.

It would be nice to get a $30 pedal that sounds just like or very similar the Bad Monkey, but there is still the fact that my MXR Classic Distortion died after about 10 uses (I will get a refund, credit, or replacement from GC, but because it was after 90 days from purchase I just can't return the pedal to GC, I gotta ship it and wait and that's a hassle...) and I am afraid the same might happen with the Classic Overdrive.

So I say enjoy the pedal, but also you might get what you pay for!

[Jack Deville]

Originally Posted by Anchoret

That's amazing. That clunky, gritty big switch isn't even true bypass? Man, what a joke! I hadn't even bothered to look at it when it was apart.

Nope. Bypass is old style (output jack switched, input connected to effect input at all times), with one pole of the DPDT controlling the LED indicator circuit.

Kinda surprised me as its not a mystery to accomplish TB switching and LED indication with a DPDT switch. Especially surprising as the manual explicitly states the unit IS true-bypass.

Whatever.

[Chiogtr4x]

Originally Posted by Jack Deville

Nope. Bypass is old style (output jack switched, input connected to effect input at all times), with one pole of the DPDT controlling the LED indicator circuit.

Kinda surprised me as its not a mystery to accomplish TB switching and LED indication with a DPDT switch. Especially surprising as the manual explicitly states the unit IS true-bypass.

Whatever.

I think I've seen the MXR/Dunlop lingo elsewhere mention "hardwire bypass" in their manuals, making folks think its TB but it is really what you have described above

[Anchoret]

Originally Posted by mikespe

Can anyone compare this pedal to the Bad Monkey? Does it sound the same or completely different?

I did, above.

Bear in mind, though, that all dirtboxes sound essentially the same to me (or at least I say they do ) -- but the Bad Monkey had better tone-shaping and a less choked sound that the ones with which I was comparing it last night.

[Anchoret]

Originally Posted by Chiogtr4x

I think I've seen the MXR/Dunlop lingo elsewhere mention "hardwire bypass" in their manuals

What it says in the M-66 manual is: "True Bypass."

[Anchoret]

Originally Posted by Chiogtr4x

After having owned the GC/MXR Classic Distortion, trying to like it but ultimately not, then having it break down (barely been used)

I wonder what was wrong with it. When I tore mine down, it impressed me as a good build, as those things go.

It's an easy enough board to troubleshoot (unlike the M-66). I'd never have any peace or sleep until I figured out what it was. The curiosity would kill me.

I like the M-86 better than the M-66, and the M-66 is a totally cheaper unit -- SMT, cheaper/lighter and slightly smaller project box, etc.

then reading this thread about the Classic Overdrive, I think I'll keep the $30. I have a Bad Monkey (which I do think is a great buy) and if this thing sounds like a BM but tonally a step down, plus my worry about the pedal's reliability- I will pass, which is hard for me to do!

The Bad Monkey is no paragon of durability, apparently, as I've read a whole bunch of people complain of them failing in one way or another, and they have the same basic corners cut as with the M-66.

The Bad Monkey is a hugely more complex circuit, typical DOD design (supposedly the FX51 "Juice Box") converted to SMT.

[Jack Deville]

Bad Monkey isn't bad.
Certainly a little prohibitive mod-wise, but its basically a TS derivative with an additional low-pass amplifier at the end.
Switching seemed to be a slightly cumbersome but effective enough.
I'm a fan of the Bad Monkey. I think they sound good.

[Anchoret]

Originally Posted by Jack Deville

Bad Monkey isn't bad.
[...]
its basically a TS derivative

I don't really see that. It's a hugely more complex circuit.

I'd love to see comparative schematics.

I'm a fan of the Bad Monkey. I think they sound good.

I think they're OK as that sort of thing goes. I think they've recently become slightly overpriced for what they are (as opposed to obscenely overpriced for most dirtboxes), as aside from the stronger case, they're just Behringer/Danelectro-grade builds -- but so are more of the pricier "quality" [cough!] pedals with each passing day. [shrug]

Of course, people are just paying for the sizzle, not the steak.

I'm sure that the M-66 would be more "awesome!" to more people if it were labeled GT-OD and they'd paid $100 for it, y'know?

"Tone" is effectively meaningless with dirtboxes as they sound tonally different with different amps, guitars and playing styles. What I judge the basic quality of an overdrive upon are two criteria, into a clean, uncolored amp:

1: The gradual ramp-up into distortion from clean...
1a: ...through the stomp's gain control and...
1b: ...through guitar output by player emphasis.

2: The ability to process complex chords at modest distortion without mudding up.

Most ODs fail at this. The Bad Monkey seems OK, which is not surprising if it is indeed the DOD FX51 circuit.

My recollection is that the M-86 "Classic Distortion" did this pretty well, too.

[Jack Deville]

Send me an email: jack@jackdeville.com
I got the schematics you want.

[Chiogtr4x]

Originally Posted by Anchoret

I wonder what was wrong with it. When I tore mine down, it impressed me as a good build, as those things go.

It's an easy enough board to troubleshoot (unlike the M-66). I'd never have any peace or sleep until I figured out what it was. The curiosity would kill me.

I like the M-86 better than the M-66, and the M-66 is a totally cheaper unit -- SMT, cheaper/lighter and slightly smaller project box, etc.


The Bad Monkey is no paragon of durability, apparently, as I've read a whole bunch of people complain of them failing in one way or another, and they have the same basic corners cut as with the M-66.

Here is what myGC/ MXR Classic Distortion did or did not do:

I just plugged it in at home one weekend afternoon to just ****** around with it as I have 5-6 OD pedals that I am always trying out at home and gigs and I do enjoy comparing them, its fun... (keep in mind I have gigged with this; never used a power supply, only battery). Anyhow, this time the pedal did nothing when I turned it on. switched it ON/OFF a few times- I smelled an electrical burning kind of smell and the back plate got hot. I tried a new battery, but I did not take the circuit board out as I wouldn't know what to do anyhow, but something got fried. The pedal still works in bypass mode but nothing when engaged. If I crank all 3 controls you hear some hiss.

[red57strat]

Has anyone here flipped the switch inside the pedal? You have to take the pedal completely apart to get at it. It makes the pedal sound fatter, louder and distort a bit less. I like it better. I might install a switch on the outside of the pedal.

[Anchoret]

Originally Posted by red57strat

Has anyone here flipped the switch inside the pedal? You have to take the pedal completely apart to get at it. It makes the pedal sound fatter, louder and distort a bit less. I like it better. I might install a switch on the outside of the pedal.

I didn't bother, because when I first pulled it apart, I didn't know for certain what it was for and I didn't want to mess with it until I found out. I read some threads on the GT-OD and they said that it changed the sound a bit.

I didn't think it was worth it to tear the box apart again to fool with it.

Note: I think from reading the threads that the GC version had the switch in the opposite default position from the GT-OD, but I could be mistaken.