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Old January 3rd, 2014, 05:17 PM   #1 (permalink)
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5E3 Build start

I started doing some work for my 5E3 build. So far I mounted some of the parts on plastic laminate to hold them in place while I solder, I see some people use cardboard. Two of the pictures show how they will mount in the chases. Looking at some other build pictures is how I came up with solder lug orientation. Also on the tube sockets I put red where the #1 pin is. So dose everything look good? (Solder lug and pin orientation) On one of the pictures the blue tape is the rectifier tube? I have two tube numbers one is WY3GT and 5Y3GT I found nothing at Tube Depot on the WY3GT no tube came up, what tube?
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Old January 3rd, 2014, 06:33 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I started doing some work for my 5E3 build. So far I mounted some of the parts on plastic laminate to hold them in place while I solder, I see some people use cardboard. Two of the pictures show how they will mount in the chases. Looking at some other build pictures is how I came up with solder lug orientation. Also on the tube sockets I put red where the #1 pin is. So dose everything look good? (Solder lug and pin orientation) On one of the pictures the blue tape is the rectifier tube? I have two tube numbers one is WY3GT and 5Y3GT I found nothing at Tube Depot on the WY3GT no tube came up, what tube?
WY3GT is Weber diode rectifier with sag resistor. I ditched it for tad 5Y3GT in mine because of behaviour. The real deal is cheap and better imho :)
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Old January 3rd, 2014, 07:01 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Just don't attach any wires to your tube sockets while they're on that laminate. If you do, you won't be able to mount them to the chassis!
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Old January 3rd, 2014, 08:07 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Looks great. I recommend a vintage 5Y3 rectifier tube and not a new production model.
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Old January 3rd, 2014, 09:29 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Just don't attach any wires to your tube sockets while they're on that laminate. If you do, you won't be able to mount them to the chassis!
I never thought of that . First save Thanks
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Old January 3rd, 2014, 09:38 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Looks great. I recommend a vintage 5Y3 rectifier tube and not a new production model.
Thanks Dave. Do have a suggestion for brand.
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Old January 3rd, 2014, 09:44 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Just don't attach any wires to your tube sockets while they're on that laminate. If you do, you won't be able to mount them to the chassis!
What about with bottom mount sockets?
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Old January 3rd, 2014, 10:54 PM   #8 (permalink)
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What about with bottom mount sockets?
Hey Glen,

Well, yeah, bottom-mounts would be different. But the the problem is lead dress ... you can't solder your leads to the bottom of the board. You could solder to the top of the board, or top of the turrets, but makes for other problems.

So while you can pre-wire the pots and inputs, usually best to do sockets after mounting in the chassis.

Aren't amps fun?!
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Old January 4th, 2014, 01:34 AM   #9 (permalink)
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SacDave, your prep looks good it all helps getting organized although only the input jacks and pots get wired while on the templates. Separate them into two subassemblies, pots on one jacks on the other, makes it easier to manipulate to reach the solder points. Watch the tricky path of the input jack resistors with their nautilus curl.
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Old January 4th, 2014, 09:29 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Nice pic of jack wiring.

It is OK to let the jacks make ground where they mount.

In Boot Hill kits, the star washers are installed on the jacks so they will make good ground connection and won't get loose.

There is no need for ground jumpers or separate (or additional) grounds.

One ground = ground. More than one ground = ground loop.

Of course, each jack makes ground of its own accord on that one shared surface, so technically, you have more than one ground.

If you used "the brass plate" method, you'd have most of the chassis face being one big ground.

That's the way they used to do it and it was ok.

Splitting signal grounds from power grounds is preferable.

The bus (method) brings all the signal grounds to the jack area.

(I have experimented with isolating the jacks and found no significant noise reduction.
Your experience may vary.)
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Old January 4th, 2014, 11:16 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I recommend a vintage 5Y3 rectifier tube and not a new production model.
The vintage 5Y3GT is a directly heated rectifier. The new production Sovtek 5Y3GT is not a true 5Y3, as it is indirectly heated, and has higher maximum current and less voltage drop than a vintage 5Y3. The JJ 5Y3S is a true 5Y3; it's directly heated, and the voltage drop and sag are the same as that of a vintage 5Y3.
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Old January 4th, 2014, 09:40 PM   #12 (permalink)
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The vintage 5Y3GT is a directly heated rectifier. The new production Sovtek 5Y3GT is not a true 5Y3, as it is indirectly heated, and has higher maximum current and less voltage drop than a vintage 5Y3. The JJ 5Y3S is a true 5Y3; it's directly heated, and the voltage drop and sag are the same as that of a vintage 5Y3.
I was looking at 5YGT tubes I see quiet a few vintage on e-bay price doesn't look bad. I always find the word Vintage thrown around is it vintage or old junk fine line. So myself I always like whats readily available you can spend some serious $$$$ on chasing down Voodoo Mojo tones on old tubes. On my custom built Amp. he used JJ's said they have less of a failure rate. So reading your post about the JJ's would the JJ 5Y3S be as good as a Vintage? 5Y3GT. I would consider using vintage tubes If I bought a reliable source, NOS preferable. I'm a ways out for tubes lot of time to research.
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Old January 4th, 2014, 10:38 PM   #13 (permalink)
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SacDave, the 5Y3 is not an expensive tube even a very nice vintage NOS (New Old Stock=vintage unused) 1960's RCA 5Y3 is only $15. It is electrically very important for your power supply section so buying the best one you can find is an easy choice. The 12AY7 is by far the most expensive (simply because the rarest) tube in the 5E3 complement. Save up for a nice 12AY7 around $30-40 for 1960s GE. 12AX7s are very plentiful, from new JJs to 1960s RCA black plates (the gold standard for vintage guitar amps) to Euro exotics Amperex and Telefunken, because they are used in almost every preamp section for decades but good vintage ones are highly prized for the same reason. The 6V6 power tubes are readily available much the same, new JJs very capable, 1950s-60s RCA black glass the vintage cream, Tung-Sol U.S.A. (not the brand new import TungSol) are the older Fender standard stock, newer Fenders use Groove Tubes. Tube collecting is one of the inherent joys and collateral investments of tube amp ownership, enjoy!
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Old January 5th, 2014, 11:36 AM   #14 (permalink)
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SacDave, the 5Y3 is not an expensive tube even a very nice vintage NOS (New Old Stock=vintage unused) 1960's RCA 5Y3 is only $15. It is electrically very important for your power supply section so buying the best one you can find is an easy choice. The 12AY7 is by far the most expensive (simply because the rarest) tube in the 5E3 complement. Save up for a nice 12AY7 around $30-40 for 1960s GE. 12AX7s are very plentiful, from new JJs to 1960s RCA black plates (the gold standard for vintage guitar amps) to Euro exotics Amperex and Telefunken, because they are used in almost every preamp section for decades but good vintage ones are highly prized for the same reason. The 6V6 power tubes are readily available much the same, new JJs very capable, 1950s-60s RCA black glass the vintage cream, Tung-Sol U.S.A. (not the brand new import TungSol) are the older Fender standard stock, newer Fenders use Groove Tubes. Tube collecting is one of the inherent joys and collateral investments of tube amp ownership, enjoy!
Thanks again KCStratMan. I just received Dave Hunters Guitar Amp Hand Book, so I read up on tubes not understanding everything but after reading about tubes vintage tubes would be best. Doing some web searches it seems e-bay has the best prices and selection, lot of NOS claims, prices not to bad. I checked out tube depot looked at few random sights. So what are some good sources for tubes? Maybe someone knows a reliable vendor on e-bay.
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Old January 5th, 2014, 12:35 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Actually, Dave (Hackworth1) usually has a good selection of vintage, NOS and new tubes and good info on which perform best, you might see what he has in stock.
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Old January 6th, 2014, 07:08 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I spent some time on the amp kit today. I made copy of the board layout tomorrow will lay the parts on it I'll put up some pics. Looking at all the goodies three parts I canít where they install , a washer with a rubber center and two terminal junctions.
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Old January 6th, 2014, 07:51 PM   #17 (permalink)
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The rubber center is removed. With the other similar stainless steel washers, use them for added reinforcement for your power transformer mounting.

The terminal strips may be used for grounding your power side or your signal grounds. Alternately, you may use the ring terminals (on your PT bolts or drill some new holes for dedicated grounding points). Some extra nuts and bolts are included so you may pursue the method you like.

If you click on my name, you will find a number of builds I have done which should be helpful. Others on this site have completed some recent 5E3 builds which serve as excellent models.
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Old January 6th, 2014, 08:03 PM   #18 (permalink)
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The rubber center is removed. With the other similar stainless steel washers, use them for added reinforcement for your power transformer mounting.

The terminal strips may be used for grounding your power side or your signal grounds. Alternately, you may use the ring terminals (on your PT bolts or drill some new holes for dedicated grounding points). Some extra nuts and bolts are included so you may pursue the method you like.

If you click on my name, you will find a number of builds I have done which should be helpful. Others on this site have completed some recent 5E3 builds which serve as excellent models.
Thanks Dave
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Old January 7th, 2014, 06:17 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I set my components on the pattern take a look see what you think. I also took pictures of all the resistors just incase I drop something.
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Old January 8th, 2014, 04:05 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I mounted all the components on the turret board, the leads are still long sticky into to foam. So dose every thing look correct? I have some shrink tube on one of the caps might take it off.
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