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Old April 8th, 2013, 09:06 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Starting a new 5e3 build (Boothill)

I've been asking Dave a bunch of questions but now that I sit down to start the build, I thought I would direct them to the forum. I want to start this build as I intend to end, by thanking all of you for your help!

My first question is: I have three filter caps (as shown in the attached picture)... two of which are 22uF and one is 16uF. What order do I put these in? My thought would be that the two 22uF guys would go toward the PT and the 16uF would be in the direction of V1. Just thought I would check though.

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Old April 8th, 2013, 09:12 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Welcome!
Do you have a wiring diagram?
It should match up real close to what he sends you.
Btw, there is not a picture attached.
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Old April 8th, 2013, 09:17 PM   #3 (permalink)
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My thought would be that the two 22uF guys would go toward the PT and the 16uF would be in the direction of V1.

.....correct.

Have fun with the build and check check check as you go.
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Old April 8th, 2013, 09:22 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Sorry about the picture, I'll have to get used to the mobile app. Thanks on the answer! All of the other values seemed pretty easy to tell, but I thought I had better ask on the filters. I am using the Weber layout. When I get to the coupling caps... do you guys give any credence to the outer foil orientation? I am using Mallory 150s.
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Old April 8th, 2013, 09:42 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Yup, I've read it may make a diff, no harm in doing it. Basically have the writing on the Mallorys reading towards the inputs/pots, or the same way as the filter caps.
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Old April 9th, 2013, 04:09 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I am using a turret board... if the body of a resistor is touching the turrets, is that a problem? The resistor in question is the 22k one between the 2nd and 3rd filter caps. That particular resistor is fairly large and to keep it from hanging off of the board I have it tucked between the turrets. If it's a problem, I'll need to get another one because I have already cut the leads and have them dry fit around the turrets. I'll post a picture in a bit, but I just wanted to ask.
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Old April 9th, 2013, 05:55 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adammwhite View Post
I am using a turret board... if the body of a resistor is touching the turrets, is that a problem? The resistor in question is the 22k one between the 2nd and 3rd filter caps. That particular resistor is fairly large and to keep it from hanging off of the board I have it tucked between the turrets. If it's a problem, I'll need to get another one because I have already cut the leads and have them dry fit around the turrets. I'll post a picture in a bit, but I just wanted to ask.
Hi Adam,

It really doesn't matter, it might make life difficult if you ever need to replace it though. I put mine in tight and it works fine.
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Old April 9th, 2013, 11:43 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Here are a few pictures of my progress. As you can see, I have the board all populated. The only thing I'll change (unless y'all see something else) is to tie (solder) the 1.5k resistor to the 25uF cap. How are things looking thus far? One question I have is on the way I did a few of the resistor pairs. If you look at the pair of 68k resistors that will tie into the first two input jacks (and to pin 2 of V1)... is it ok the way I looped the leads in opposite directions around the turret post? I know it might make it more difficult to get off... but electrically is there anything wrong with the leads touching before the solder joint? Also, something that would be really helpful for a newbie like me is a layout diagram with the names of the components. I know what the filter caps are and the coupling caps, but the common names for all of the other components would be nice. It may already exist but a layout with the values+names written onto the components would be awesome! My next step is to work on the back of the board and the jacks and pots. I'll have a lot more questions so if you typically have answers it would be great if you could subscribe to this feed:)

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Last edited by adammwhite; April 10th, 2013 at 07:00 AM.
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Old April 10th, 2013, 10:51 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Any thoughts would be appreciated! This has been really fun thus far and I'm ready to keep going. Do y'all know if there's a repository of close up pictures of things like the back of the board, the inputs and pots, the tube sockets, heater wire and transformer connections? Anything on the photo front would be helpful! I look forward to feedback on the board thus far:)
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Old April 10th, 2013, 11:10 AM   #10 (permalink)
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here are a couple of photos to look at of a 5e3 board

top


back - mirror image


both superimposed together


I'm thinking of making my boards out of lexan next time, instead of having to use my x-ray filter on my camera. It tends to use up the batteries 10x faster than with my regular lens.
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Old April 10th, 2013, 12:22 PM   #11 (permalink)
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There are a bunch of pics on the Boothill website.
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Old April 10th, 2013, 02:43 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Thanks for the tip on the pictures! Does anyone have thoughts on my resistor placement from my previous post? Is there an issue with the leads touching prior to the turret?

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Old April 10th, 2013, 03:22 PM   #13 (permalink)
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IMHO it's not a great idea to stretch a component (resistor, especially) drum-tight between two rigid attachment points (turrets, in this case).

The problem is that resistors heat up and cool down every time the amp is turned on and then off, and in the process the resistors expand and contract a little each time. This also happens with weather and seasonal changes, of course.

If the leads are drum-tight, the resistor can literally pull itself apart when it cools and contracts. Usually one of the wires pulls ever so slightly off the end of the resistor. It may not even be possible to see the gap at all, it may be under the paint. But that part of the amp will stop working, because current can no longer flow through that component.

The fix is simple, leave some sort of room for thermal expansion in the lead. This can be as simple as a little bend in the lead. The bend will increase or decrease microscopically as the temperature changes, and will keep the forces small enough not to tear the lead off the resistor.

This is one of the many situations in which the "prettiest" way to do it is not actually the best way.

-Gnobuddy
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Old April 11th, 2013, 11:44 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Gnobuddy is correct. He describes an optimal state of Zen. This is good and true.

I think you are good to go. Solder the sides of the turrets. You can put the wire leads in later. Don't get solder in the holes on top or bottom. You'll need those holes later.
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Old April 12th, 2013, 06:30 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Use a heatsink on the electrolytics, otherwise you might overheat them!
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Old April 12th, 2013, 09:54 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Thanks for all of your help thus far and please keep it coming:). Question: I soldered the components onto the board last night (I'll post some pics later)... if I'm able to get a good MM reading of the component value from the tops of the turrets that the components are connected to, does that mean I have a good solder connection? Probably not, because it could just be a good mechanical connection... right? All of my joints are shiny and look pretty good I think but is there anyway to know for sure that some aren't cold?
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Old April 12th, 2013, 10:14 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Adam,

A visual inspection at the point you are at now is probably best. If all your joints are bright and look OK, then they probably are. It is easy to spot a bad joint when you have all the other good ones to compare to; I used a magnifier and found one I had soldered badly.
I made the mistake of re-checking my component values when I had finished soldering, to find that a capacitor value will mis-read once it is in parallel with a resistor.

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Old April 19th, 2013, 12:34 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I'm still here but I haven't had time to much with work projects. I'm going to get back on this project in a week. I'm looking forward to working on this some more!
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Old April 30th, 2013, 10:02 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Ok, I sat down to wire the pots and jacks and I'm not sure what wire type to use where. It looks like most of what came with the kit is stranded wire and then there are two pieces that are thinner and look to be solid core. Help!
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Old April 30th, 2013, 10:03 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Also, is this going to work? Or should I have used wire to go between the two jacks?

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