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Old January 31st, 2013, 10:40 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Boothill 5E3 build

Hey everyone,

I just got my boothill kit in yesterday, thanks Dave. Actually, I got two of them, one if for a friend who is building one too. I am very excited to get the amp together.

I've been working with low voltage stuff for many years (effects pedals, etc.) but this is my first full tube amp build (I've worked on some of my amps before, but never a whole build). I feel that, in general, my soldering technique is decent but this is an entirely new context for me.

I just finished putting all the passives on the board, I am positive I followed the layout correctly but since this is my first eyelet board I would love some feedback on my work and any advice to improve.

I appreciate all your help and look forward to completing the rest of the project.

For some reason my iPhone rotates every photo 180 degrees, if this is a problem for y'all I will fix it. Thanks.
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Old February 1st, 2013, 06:08 AM   #2 (permalink)
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The layout looks good from what I can see. You may want to touch up the eyelets with solder. Those holes should be filled. Don't pile the solder in there, just make sure you can't see through the eyelet.
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Old February 1st, 2013, 06:33 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Hmmm... when did Dave start using eyelet boards?
Mine was one of the early ones and came wtih a tag board.
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Old February 1st, 2013, 09:43 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks, some of the holes still need wires in them, so they will be filled in as I go.

I will do the under the board wiring and some of the off the board stuff today.
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Old February 1st, 2013, 03:00 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Alright I got my under the board wiring done and set up a panel template.

I'm doing the grounding buss and it seems a little trickier with eyelet boards. What I did was use pieces of component leads to make little posts to keep it raised (on the eyelets that are grounded). Does this work?

Also, should the spaces in between the components that are grounded get insulated in any way? Heat shrink, wire insulation, etc.

After it goes to the cathode resistor does it just go to the input #1 ground and then stop, the rest of the inputs being grounded to the chassis?

Also, what are everyones general thoughts on using heatshrink on stuff like tube sockets? I usually like the stuff to keep things neat but I don't see many people using it on tube builds.

Thanks.
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Old February 6th, 2013, 08:31 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Are the upside-down pictures too annoying?
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Old February 6th, 2013, 08:53 PM   #7 (permalink)
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After it goes to the cathode resistor does it just go to the input #1 ground and then stop, the rest of the inputs being grounded to the chassis?

Cathode resistor at V1A is the last stop before making ground at the input jack. Your input jacks will all make ground on their own by their bodies being secured tightly with the star washers. One input jack will serve to ground all signal grounds on the bus.

Keep the bus away from other component connections. Needlenose pliers can be used to bend it away.

There is sufficient room for the ground bus in front of the board. Under the pots and jacks.

The pots will all make ground on that bus. The pots will likewise be secure via the star washers behind them. But the pots won't make ground of their own accord. The ground tab on the left will meet the bus via a jumper.
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Old February 6th, 2013, 08:57 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RJSkypala View Post
Are the upside-down pictures too annoying?
Turn the phone upside down, take the picture, it rotates 180 degrees, and north is north.

It shouldn't make any difference- I guess we just get used to looking at certain things oriented certain ways. Books, for instance. I have always thought a million dollar idea would be to have maps/globes printed "upside down". My marketing slogan would be "Turn Your World Upside Down". I just find it interesting that it's always "goin' up to Canada" or "goin' down to Mexico". There is no up or down really, is there?
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Old February 6th, 2013, 09:05 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I like the way you think papa :)


Op I don't think u need to heatshrink tubing a bunch o stuff. If you're making a shielded wire then sure cause it looks nice. Or if you want to heatshrink over some of the power side stuff like the switches etc. sure. Not the tube sockets, but hey, strike out on your own :)
Good luck with your build!
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Old February 6th, 2013, 09:24 PM   #10 (permalink)
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The pots will all make ground on that bus. The pots will likewise be secure via the star washers behind them. But the pots won't make ground of their own accord. The ground tab on the left will meet the bus via a jumper.

By ground tab do you mean the 3rd solder lug or the anti-rotation tab?

What is the best scheme to connect the three pots to the buss? I am guessing it will be connecting the grounding tab on all of them together, and then one to the buss.
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Old February 6th, 2013, 09:35 PM   #11 (permalink)
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i made a oops - was thinking of the input jacks - sorry !
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Old February 6th, 2013, 09:37 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Three solder tabs on a shorting jack. Ground, Switch, Tip (Hot)

I mean the solder lug.

The tone pot has a capacitor that goes to ground. You can connect it to the ground tab on the volume pot next to it. Here's a good place to use shrink tubing or spaghetti insulation.

I like to ground both of the vol pots to the bus, but that's not necessary provided they are daisy chained together and one jumper goes to the bus.
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Old February 6th, 2013, 10:05 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Note: Do not go by the tube socket numbers. They are wrong.

You must count the tube socket pins clockwise from the indexing key.
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Old February 12th, 2013, 08:42 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Got the kit in the mail today, the mailman thought I was gonna mug him I was so excited waiting to pounce on him lol
Great job with the kit Dave, I really appreciate how detailed everything was marked and packaged! I got a chance to fit some of the board components up and took some pictures hoping some of you wonderful experts could proof it before pitting any solder on it...any suggestions or critiques are very welcome....I am here to learn from the Masters

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Old February 13th, 2013, 09:12 AM   #15 (permalink)
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The 25uf/25v electrolytic cap all the way to the right appears to be installed with the polarity reversed. The + side should be towards the tube side of the board, like the filter caps are. I can't see the others so you may want to check them as well.
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Old February 13th, 2013, 09:56 AM   #16 (permalink)
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I flipped it around, thanks!
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Old March 8th, 2013, 01:45 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Finally finished my 5E3, with classictone transformers.

First time I fired it up there was no sound. Checked all wiring, and realized that the terminals on the terminal strip I used to ground the power side were not connected to each other! Put a piece of component lead across all of them, turned the amp on, and it works! Very minimal hum, in fact much more quiet than some of my other amps.

The thing sounds amazing. I have it going into an avatar 4x12 for now until I build my cabinet. But damn, I listened to some YouTube clips of this amp before building it and they just do not do it justice. Here is a pic:


Gonna order a champ kit real soon!
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Old March 8th, 2013, 02:15 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Congrats!!
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Old March 8th, 2013, 04:59 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Yeehaaa, another addicted convert
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