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Old January 23rd, 2013, 11:28 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Best adhesive for tolexing an amp?

Any suggesting out there on the best way to go about tolexing a cabinet as far as adhesives are concerned?

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Old January 23rd, 2013, 11:32 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I've always used contact cement. Brush or roll it on. Difficult to work with though if you are new to doing this and contact cement. I have done quite a few cabs this way.
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Old January 23rd, 2013, 11:40 AM   #3 (permalink)
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"Best" is a subjective term with many variables to consider.

What's "best" for some may not be "best for others.

"Best" adhesion might not be very forgiving.

"Best" can be what's easiest to work with and still produce satisfactory results.

"Best" can be what is the least expensive to purchase.

"Best" might be what is even practical given the tools available.

"Best" for me is a little bit of each.

I use a Latex Contact Cement. (tweed fabric)

I have a system that I use that I like but may not be practical for others.
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Old January 23rd, 2013, 11:51 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by motor_city_tele View Post
"Best" is a subjective term with many variables to consider.

What's "best" for some may not be "best for others.

"Best" adhesion might not be very forgiving.

"Best" can be what's easiest to work with and still produce satisfactory results.

"Best" can be what is the least expensive to purchase.

"Best" might be what is even practical given the tools available.

"Best" for me is a little bit of each.

I use a Latex Contact Cement. (tweed fabric)

I have a system that I use that I like but may not be practical for others.
Your thread showing the method you utilised for covering your collection of beauties is possibly the most informative on the subject I have ever read!
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Old January 23rd, 2013, 12:16 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I would agree with the notion that contact cement (DAP weldwood, for instance) can be really good, or really bad. It's a mess if you mess up and have to redo it. I have had good luck with it with in the last several projects, but there was a dissapointment and redo that was a challenge.
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Old January 23rd, 2013, 12:47 PM   #6 (permalink)
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That gallon on the right is the TOlex GLue from AES. It's water based and awesome. I've tried hide glue, high voc contact cement, 3M spray 77. Nothing compares to this stuff. I will never use anything else.
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Old January 23rd, 2013, 01:04 PM   #7 (permalink)
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That gallon on the right is the TOlex GLue from AES. It's water based and awesome. I've tried hide glue, high voc contact cement, 3M spray 77. Nothing compares to this stuff. I will never use anything else.
+1, I'd never think of using anything else.
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Old January 23rd, 2013, 01:21 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I used vinyl adhesive from Home Depot. I researched it online, and that was the choice of many. It gives you a bit of time to move the tolex around then sets up really well. I think it was a Roberts product.


I used it for these
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Old January 23rd, 2013, 09:18 PM   #9 (permalink)
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That gallon on the right is the TOlex GLue from AES. It's water based and awesome. I've tried hide glue, high voc contact cement, 3M spray 77. Nothing compares to this stuff. I will never use anything else.
Me 3, I used this for the first couple then tried a couple other choices & now I'm back to the stuff from AES, just bought another quart as a matter of fact.
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Old January 24th, 2013, 01:18 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I use the tolex glue from the supplier of the tolex. 3M super 77 it great for getting tight corners,but it is an immediate stick, there is no ease of adjustment or movement.

Some recent projects.
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Old January 24th, 2013, 01:23 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Be sure to clean the cabinet well before glue. I sand the wood and clean it with isopropal alcohol and a rag. Spray paint it flat black with a decent paint. Take your time and use a fresh sharp razor blade every chance you get. A metal straight edge for the seems. Act as if you are doing wallpaper. Overlap the seem and cut through both layers. Pull back and remove the cuts,laying back a perfect butt seem.
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Old January 24th, 2013, 02:35 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I think it was a Permatex spray I used on a BFTR I picked it up in a craft store in town. Read the label and it looked like it would work.

When I redo it next summer I won't be useing it. While it was nice because I could reposition the tolex as I worked. Only problem is I can still reposition the tolex!
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Old January 26th, 2013, 01:18 PM   #13 (permalink)
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The water based Tolex glue is good stuff, except for one area: where you have tolex on tolex, as in a BF Fender on the top (or bottom) lap seams with the sides. Those areas will start to 'lift and separate' (to borrow Playtex's phrase) over time...
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Old January 27th, 2013, 12:01 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
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The water based Tolex glue is good stuff, except for one area: where you have tolex on tolex, as in a BF Fender on the top (or bottom) lap seams with the sides. Those areas will start to 'lift and separate' (to borrow Playtex's phrase) over time...
I've done 2 blackface style cabs using water based Tolex glue, one was over 3 years ago. No lifting where it overlaps yet.
My brother built a cab for me about 5 years ago and used the 3M spray, it is coming all unglued.
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Old January 27th, 2013, 01:32 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I used water based solvent free vinyl adhesive from B & Q, the UK hardware chain. I followed the advice here http://jam4jmessageboard.websitetool...roject-2378719 with this result
I'll use the same glue next time, because it gives 10 minutes or so to move the tolex around before the adhesive grabs.
It's too early to tell, but it seems to be lasting well.
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Old January 28th, 2013, 07:31 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Thanks everyone for the suggestions!
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Old January 30th, 2013, 03:42 AM   #17 (permalink)
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The generic stuff from AES is THE BEST.

I just finished a cab last week (thread and pics soon). A thin coat and within a few seconds it's already tacky. You can still adjust the tolex, but it's still sticky enough to get things in place. A few seconds later and you can cut the edges/corners without worrying about the tolex sliding around.

PS
Super 77 SUCKS. Never again.
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Old January 30th, 2013, 10:14 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I have this 69 Bassman Drip edge head that someone goobered up

Where can I get a pattern ???
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Old January 30th, 2013, 10:27 AM   #19 (permalink)
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What do you need a pattern for? Just cut a piece and stick it on, fold the excess inside the cab.
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Old January 30th, 2013, 10:40 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Well.......
Kinda thought I would refinish the entire head so that it matches
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