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| Shock Brother's DIY Amps Building or modding your amp? Then use this forum to discuss the process and show your pride and joy. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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TDPRI Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Georgia
Posts: 50
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Best adhesive for tolexing an amp?
Any suggesting out there on the best way to go about tolexing a cabinet as far as adhesives are concerned?
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#2 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Calera, Alabama
Age: 60
Posts: 3,916
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I've always used contact cement. Brush or roll it on. Difficult to work with though if you are new to doing this and contact cement. I have done quite a few cabs this way.
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"Just once I'd like to hear you scream in pain" "Play some RAP music" |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
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"Best" is a subjective term with many variables to consider.
What's "best" for some may not be "best for others. "Best" adhesion might not be very forgiving. "Best" can be what's easiest to work with and still produce satisfactory results. "Best" can be what is the least expensive to purchase. "Best" might be what is even practical given the tools available. "Best" for me is a little bit of each. I use a Latex Contact Cement. (tweed fabric) I have a system that I use that I like but may not be practical for others.
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Holic
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Leicestershire
Age: 49
Posts: 713
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Quote:
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"Life is what happens while you are busy making other plans" - John Lennon |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Tele-Holic
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Gainesville FL
Age: 48
Posts: 537
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I would agree with the notion that contact cement (DAP weldwood, for instance) can be really good, or really bad. It's a mess if you mess up and have to redo it. I have had good luck with it with in the last several projects, but there was a dissapointment and redo that was a challenge.
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#6 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Kent, OH
Age: 37
Posts: 1,864
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That gallon on the right is the TOlex GLue from AES. It's water based and awesome. I've tried hide glue, high voc contact cement, 3M spray 77. Nothing compares to this stuff. I will never use anything else.
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Poster Extraordinaire
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Fort Worth,Tx.
Age: 62
Posts: 8,776
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#8 (permalink) |
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Tele-Holic
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: North Bay, Ca
Age: 63
Posts: 715
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I used vinyl adhesive from Home Depot. I researched it online, and that was the choice of many. It gives you a bit of time to move the tolex around then sets up really well. I think it was a Roberts product.
I used it for these
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When you're in the top 2%, who cares what the other 95% think ? |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Holic
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Quote:
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#10 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Elkhart,Indiana
Posts: 2,379
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I use the tolex glue from the supplier of the tolex. 3M super 77 it great for getting tight corners,but it is an immediate stick, there is no ease of adjustment or movement.
Some recent projects.
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Live Sound Engineer http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100000697631854 http://www.blammoband.com |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Elkhart,Indiana
Posts: 2,379
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Be sure to clean the cabinet well before glue. I sand the wood and clean it with isopropal alcohol and a rag. Spray paint it flat black with a decent paint. Take your time and use a fresh sharp razor blade every chance you get. A metal straight edge for the seems. Act as if you are doing wallpaper. Overlap the seem and cut through both layers. Pull back and remove the cuts,laying back a perfect butt seem.
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Live Sound Engineer http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100000697631854 http://www.blammoband.com |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Nimrod MN
Posts: 4,354
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I think it was a Permatex spray I used on a BFTR I picked it up in a craft store in town. Read the label and it looked like it would work.
When I redo it next summer I won't be useing it. While it was nice because I could reposition the tolex as I worked. Only problem is I can still reposition the tolex! |
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#13 (permalink) |
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TDPRI Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Lenexa, KS
Age: 61
Posts: 9
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The water based Tolex glue is good stuff, except for one area: where you have tolex on tolex, as in a BF Fender on the top (or bottom) lap seams with the sides. Those areas will start to 'lift and separate' (to borrow Playtex's phrase) over time...
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#14 (permalink) | |
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Poster Extraordinaire
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Fort Worth,Tx.
Age: 62
Posts: 8,776
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Quote:
My brother built a cab for me about 5 years ago and used the 3M spray, it is coming all unglued. |
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#15 (permalink) |
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TDPRI Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Nottingham, UK
Posts: 43
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I used water based solvent free vinyl adhesive from B & Q, the UK hardware chain. I followed the advice here http://jam4jmessageboard.websitetool...roject-2378719 with this result
![]() ![]() I'll use the same glue next time, because it gives 10 minutes or so to move the tolex around before the adhesive grabs. It's too early to tell, but it seems to be lasting well. |
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#17 (permalink) |
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Doctor of Teleocity
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The generic stuff from AES is THE BEST.
I just finished a cab last week (thread and pics soon). A thin coat and within a few seconds it's already tacky. You can still adjust the tolex, but it's still sticky enough to get things in place. A few seconds later and you can cut the edges/corners without worrying about the tolex sliding around. PS Super 77 SUCKS. Never again.
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- 3 Gibsons, 5 Teles, assorted other guitars, about a dozen amps, about two dozen pedals, a Smith & Wesson SW40VE, & a .40 SIG Sauer P226R = too many toys, no money, carpal tunnel, and a serious hearing problem. |
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