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Old January 5th, 2013, 07:01 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Where to go from here?

Brought this home this afternoon. The guy I got it grim says it makes a great 18w build. Naturally since the only work I have done on any amps is a 5e3 it looks like a 5e3 to me without a pre amp.
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Old January 5th, 2013, 07:13 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Possibly a Smokin' Joe II from Weber with a rectifier tube instead of a bridge rectifier?
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Old January 5th, 2013, 07:30 PM   #3 (permalink)
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This was in the organ when he took the amp out - i think possibly punch a hole, add a noval socket and then go from there - I will need to determine yet - I think - if there is enough juice on the PT to get me the needed amperage for the extra socket... anything obvious i'm missing?
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Old January 6th, 2013, 08:22 AM   #4 (permalink)
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If i were you iŽd tidy it up a bit as far as innards...check for anything obviously marginal and replace as needed.
Then fire it up and check to see what voltages asf youŽre getting. If that within is the OT iŽd say that looks kind of meek. PT tho...nah... If thereŽs a heater fuse in there that would most def give you an idea.

What iŽm saying is that from the looks of it that there looks to be a P/P twin 6V6 18watter which is tube rectified.
In such a case iŽd fold an extra preamp chassis from some aluminium sheet metal. If you got a metal workshop around where you live,ask them to fold one for you.

Then,making the hookup between the two pts..easy enough. DonŽt frown on the idea of using a preamp and poweramp part. Many a good amps are built this way and it DOES carry merit.
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Old January 6th, 2013, 10:49 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I did a few like that in the past. I would probably spend a day studying how the different parts are wired, maybe make a drawing just for the heck of it. Then i wouldde-solder and remove all the parts, just leaving the transformers and tube sockets mounted. And clean all the terminals. The easy way is with a solder gun and a air compressor - but wear some safety glasses!

you could make a nice little 5e3-type amp, with true point-to-point wiring. But it would get pretty cramped with all the inputs/outputs and pots etc.

What 'racing' said above is a fine suggestion. Build a second small chassis for the preamp. Mount this power amp on the floor of the cab and the pre-amp at the top. A real 50's vibe there.
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Old January 6th, 2013, 11:11 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Lots of possibilities there, it would be really surprising if your PT could not supply the extra 300ma 6.3v for a heater and 4ma B+. If it can't, then you could do something like an early vox, sub in a 7199, use the pentode in place of the Vox's ef86 and the triode as the split load/concertina PI
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Old January 7th, 2013, 01:50 PM   #7 (permalink)
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All great ideas - this will definitely be a Head only - so i'm not too worried about the space needed for the input/output jacks, and vol/tone controls - they'll be mounted off the chassis anyway - i was thinking i could drill a hole above where the 12ax7 is labled now - put in the pre-amp tube there, and get a turret board mounted up a an inch or 3/4" over the tube sockets -

..... but i'm sort of liking the idea of the shared 7199 for PI and pre amp -
Is the first schematic shown on this page the way that you mentioned the early vox amps did it? well at least one way? http://www.triodeel.com/7199.htm
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Old January 7th, 2013, 03:08 PM   #8 (permalink)
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That looks like it would work. I have never used regenerative feedback on a screen grid, so I do not have a suggestion for the size of C1, but C2 C3, the coupling caps to the power tubes I would suggest going down to no higher then .1uf.
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Old January 7th, 2013, 03:16 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Old January 7th, 2013, 03:23 PM   #10 (permalink)
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It looks like its from a old phonograph. I see you are in the twin citys. If you got it from a guy in burnsville i may know a little about it and be able to tell you more as i have worked on one before.

It can run a second 12 ax7. Just not any room to work with. It can be done i have seen it.
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Old January 7th, 2013, 03:27 PM   #11 (permalink)
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That looks like it would work. I have never used regenerative feedback on a screen grid, so I do not have a suggestion for the size of C1, but C2 C3, the coupling caps to the power tubes I would suggest going down to no higher then .1uf.
I see that in the notes too - motorboating - low plate -
perhaps still adding another tube is the way :)
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Old January 7th, 2013, 03:32 PM   #12 (permalink)
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It looks like its from a old phonograph. I see you are in the twin citys. If you got it from a guy in burnsville i may know a little about it and be able to tell you more as i have worked on one before.

It can run a second 12 ax7. Just not any room to work with. It can be done i have seen it.
It is one and the same - and i think i'm thinking that for sure i will run a second tube for a pre - you went the 18W route with the other one? did you happen to look at the Weber Smokin' Joe II layout/schematic? i think this would work for this pretty well - just gear it up for 6v6 instead of the el84s - would be more like a single channel 5e3 - or perhaps just build it as a 5e3 period -
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Old January 7th, 2013, 06:23 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Make a Harvard. Everything will fit. V1 is a 6AV6 or a 6AT6

If I'd read this thread sooner, I'd have sent you a 7 pin tube socket with your pots.

http://www.tdpri.com/forum/shock-bro...p-chassis.html
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Old January 8th, 2013, 12:42 AM   #14 (permalink)
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It is one and the same - and i think i'm thinking that for sure i will run a second tube for a pre - you went the 18W route with the other one? did you happen to look at the Weber Smokin' Joe II layout/schematic? i think this would work for this pretty well - just gear it up for 6v6 instead of the el84s - would be more like a single channel 5e3 - or perhaps just build it as a 5e3 period -

My friend had one of these before that sombody had added a 2nd 12ax7 into it paralleled input gain stage. With a 5e3 design. It was a rats nest. He sold it. It did sound very nice BTW. Later he came across another phonograph with a chassis he wanted me to build. I declined. So i guess you got it now. Small world. I would be interested how it comes out :-)
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Old January 8th, 2013, 03:57 AM   #15 (permalink)
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+1 on a Harvard
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Old January 8th, 2013, 11:54 AM   #16 (permalink)
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I am digging Celeste's idea for a 7199. You could use the pentode for a ga40 and just use a nice concertina phase inverter. It is my understanding that the 7199 is essentially a 5879 and half a 12ax7 jammed into one tube.
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Old January 8th, 2013, 03:17 PM   #17 (permalink)
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you're all so smart and full of great stuff - Thank you for such great advice and input!

- since i'm pretty sure i'll NOT be doing complete point to point, i think i'll be learning how to make turret boards this time eh?
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Old January 8th, 2013, 07:55 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Make a Harvard. Everything will fit. V1 is a 6AV6 or a 6AT6

If I'd read this thread sooner, I'd have sent you a 7 pin tube socket with your pots.

http://www.tdpri.com/forum/shock-bro...p-chassis.html
Everything will fit. Measured it out tonight. I like the cathode bias as well, but since I have an unknown power transformer should I possibly set it up with a trim pot between some resistors instead of the larger 5watt one on far left of board that you coupled with the 22uf /50v cap? I read some on the tubes you mentioned and I think the 6at6 may give a bit more gain and perhaps bite.
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Old January 8th, 2013, 08:07 PM   #19 (permalink)
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2-1/2" x 8"
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Old January 8th, 2013, 09:07 PM   #20 (permalink)
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If space is too confined, you can do cathode bias like a 5E3 in your Harvard type build.

The cap can saves a lot of space.

Using that existing cap can, if it checks out, or a new cap can, will save some real estate for a Harvard style board.
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