Another first build: Boot Hill 5e3

[picknpluck]

I got my kit from Dave a few weeks ago, but have just now started to get into it. I'm a total been and have already exchanged a few emails with Dave regarding some been questions. I haven't worked on electronics since servicing Bradley Fighting Vehicle cannons over a decade ago and that never required soldering so this should be fun. Anyway, here is my populated turret board.

[paratus]

Looks good so far! keep us informed please.

[picknpluck]

Here's the speaker I'm going to use: a 1956 Jensen P12R. Also got Classic Tone iron. I ordered my cab from Memphis Amps, but it's not here yet.

[picknpluck]

I had a productive night! Here is my board all wired up. First solder job since making a volume box 10 years ago.

[pryde]

Good luck with the build! I am getting ready to pull the trigger on a kit (likely from Boothill) as well. I will be watching

[picknpluck]

I haven't been able to get much else done to speak of. For every hour I spend working on the amp, I probably spend 3 on this forum trying to learn from all of you by reading your threads and replies. You guys have been a great resource and inspiration!

[SFenn]

One thing that helped me a little was to go find every different amp builder's version of the 5e3 layout drawing, print them out and compare between them when something may be unclear on one drawing..... oh yeah, and call Dave a few times.

[picknpluck]

I did some more work on the build last night, but I would appreciate it if someone could check my work, especially the wiring on the input jacks. I've been using this old thread of Dave's for reference http://www.tdpri.com/forum/shock-bro...struction.html but upon closer inspection, I may have used the wrong green wire on the 90 degree bend of my grounding buss. I think maybe I should have used the darker green wire for this?

This begs the question: Included in the Boot Hill 5e3 kit are a short length of a lighter green wire, a short lengthof brown wire, and a short length of a lighter red wire. Where do these wires get used?

Another question: the layout calls for a 500pf capaciter between the Tone pot and middle volume pot. The capacitor I wired up says 501k/500V. Did I use the right one?

[picknpluck]

Here are some more shots. Sorry for the crappy cell phone pics.

[picknpluck]

Anybody?

[Finastbeans]

501 is a capacitor code, it means 500pF. So that should be the correct one. I can never remember the translations but there are online tools for it, and also electrodroid for Android phones.

[charisjapan]

Originally Posted by picknpluck

I did some more work on the build last night, but I would appreciate it if someone could check my work, especially the wiring on the input jacks. I've been using this old thread of Dave's for reference http://www.tdpri.com/forum/shock-bro...struction.html but upon closer inspection, I may have used the wrong green wire on the 90 degree bend of my grounding buss. I think maybe I should have used the darker green wire for this?

This begs the question: Included in the Boot Hill 5e3 kit are a short length of a lighter green wire, a short lengthof brown wire, and a short length of a lighter red wire. Where do these wires get used?

Another question: the layout calls for a 500pf capaciter between the Tone pot and middle volume pot. The capacitor I wired up says 501k/500V. Did I use the right one?

picknpluck,

Up front, I'm a noob, so not exactly qualified to proof your work, but...

Your inputs look to be true to Weber spec. Where's that green wire on the ground bus going to, the speaker jack? I used brown for between pots, and blue for coupling caps to volume pots. Red for power connections. Dave sent me a red-tinted copper wire for the ground bus, but I used a heavier gauge copper just like yours. I also used star-washers to ground all pots and jacks, as well as the switches (to keep them from loosening). I used the same 501K/500V where you did, and the slightly larger ceramic cap (.0047uF) from the left leg of the tone pot to ground on the back of the pot. Not sure about that last one, but nobody's said anything untoward.

Looking good! Please be safe, too!

[icy_wind500]

Looking great so far !

Cant wait to see the finished product !

[picknpluck]

Thanks for the encouragement and replies! Charisjapan, the green wire coming off the ground bus goes to pin 9 on V1, I think, based on one of Dave's builds here: http://www.tdpri.com/forum/shock-bro...struction.html but I'm beginning to second-guess this. I've got a question in to Dave about it and my earlier question about the other wires included in my kit. The further I get into this project, the more question I have, but this has been a completely awesome experience so far and I can't wait to plug my 335 in and hear it for the first time! I really enjoy learning about how amps work and the whole process. This definitely won't be my last build--I'm already contemplating an 18 watt and a Tweed Super! Plus a 5F1 for my son if he gets into guitars.

[hackworth1]

pick,

That green wire from V1 pin 9 and V2 pin 9 to ground on my builds is there b/c I used some Russian Preamp Tubes 6N2P instead of the traditional 12AX7 and 12AY7.

The Russian tubes have a different heater filament wiring.

Do you plan on using the Russian Preamp Tubes (they're good and they're inexpensive - about $4 a tube from the Russian Sellers on ebay) ?

If not, remove the green wire.

I threw those bits of wire in your kit for spare parts.

[picknpluck]

No, I have an EH 12AY7 for V1, a JJ 12AX7 for V2 and JJ 6V6's. Noted on the wires, thanks!

[hackworth1]

Looks like you're ready for ground wires from your pots to the bus. The tone control gets a .0047uf cap to ground. You can do it the Ceriatone way and save a step.

http://ceriatoneforum.com/index.php?topic=22.0

[Marshall Thinline]

Enjoying the build, from the sidelines....Great job!

[picknpluck]

Do I need the ground wire coming off the top left turret on my board? I installed it, too, based on pictures, but I'm unsure of where it goes.

[hackworth1]

Yes. It will go to ground on your 2 lug terminal strip which will be bolted under a PT nut.

SOlder the two lugs together with a piece of wire so they both make ground. Leave the holes in the solder tabs open. You will need them later.