Another first build: Boot Hill 5e3

[picknpluck]

You are referring to this piece, right?

[picknpluck]

I got my board all wired up and installed in the chassis. However, I'm not completely thrilled with my wiring of the grounds coming off the volume/tone pots. Looking around at other builds, I like the look of running a lead from the tab and soldering it to the body of the pot. I may go back and re-do this.

[hackworth1]

The pot case is a shield against noise. When you use it as a ground, it becomes an active part of the circuit. It is no longer functioning as a shield, but as a part of the ground circuit.

This is one school of thought. Others do as you are thinking.

You say you like the look, which is an aesthetic consideration, but there is no valid reason to do it when you have that bus running under the pots.

Your grounds appear to be fine. So long as the solder joints are solid - you're good as gold.

Everything looks good. Nice and neat.

[picknpluck]

Thanks for the input. I've been fanatical about going back over my connections with a chopstick and making sure they're tight. I'll leave the ground wiring as-is. Next up: installing the tube sockets and wiring them up. I'm going to install my filament wires so they lay flush against the chassis, me thinks. I like that look much better and it appears much neater.

[picknpluck]

Progress is a bit slow, but I got a few free minutes to work on the amp. Got the trannies bolted up and my preamp sockets wired. I added cream knobs from Antique Electronics Supply and a metal pilot light from tubedepot. The jewel lamp cover will be blue. Wiring the filaments wires is trickier than I thought!

[hackworth1]

Looks like good lead dress from the photos.

[picknpluck]

I think I'm ready to apply power. Anything look amiss in there?

[hackworth1]

Looks good. Might need to install a longer B+ lead and snake it around by itself to the standby switch. Also no need to bunny hug the heater wires with the HT lines and rectifier heater.

Remember to Keep your fingers away from the innards when you turn it on. Don't want you to be a part of the Fireworks Display.

[Telenut62]

Drum roll!

[hackworth1]

Bueller? ...Bueller?

[boredguy6060]

Well?

[picknpluck]

Sorry guys, gotta keep you in suspense a little bit longer. I've got a newborn so I've been super busy, but I'll plug it in tonight when I get home from class. I was debating on waiting for my cabinet to arrive (UPS tracker shows Monday) but I'm getting impatient. I'll give it a go on the bench tonight.

Hackworth, I did make those changes to the B+ lead and I clipped the zip tie holding the bundle of wires together.

Stupid question: The B+ lead you're referring runs from pin 8 on the rectifier socket to the standby switch, right?

[hackworth1]

Yes B+

Read thru these debugging and start up procedures

http://www.geofex.com/ampdbug/ampdebug.htm

[picknpluck]

Sweet! I was looking for something like that!

[picknpluck]

So finally, the moment of truth...

Turned Power and Standby switches to "on" with no tubes and plugged in...light comes on! No smoke or other tomfoolery.

Unplugged, left the switches on, installed the rectifier tube, then plugged back in. Pilot light comes on and filament lights up in the tube! Again, nothing abnormal.

Unplugged, switches on, installed preamp tubes. Lamp comes on, rectifier tube filament lights, so do the preamp tube filaments No odd noise, smoke, etc.

Unplugged, switches on, installed power tubes, insured vol/tone knobs set to lowest setting. Plugged in, lamp, rectifier, preamp and power tubes all light up.

Plugged in guitar, opened up volume/tone from amp and guitar and....nothing.

What's the step-by-step on checking voltages? I know about grounding the black lead to the chassis and one hand behind the back, just don't know the sequence of pins to check.

[picknpluck]

A quick update before I go to bed...

I plugged the speaker, the preamp tubes, and the guitar into another amp and they all worked so by process of elimination, it's not any of those factors. I'm too tired to be messing with this stuff tonight. I'll try to hit it again tomorrow, and hopefully some of you amp gurus can help me out.

[Telenut62]

Here we go again.....

Read this first...establish the PT and OT volts are ok....then check with just the rectifier.

http://www.paulrubyamps.com/info.html#FirstPowerUp

If everything seems ok then check the corresponding voltages using this layout with all tubes in, hope it's clear enough. Note if you have a 12AY7 in V1 the readings will be a bit lower there.



If all voltages are ok, then check all ground connections

[boredguy6060]

Well until someone more experienced jumps in

Start with V1 the first preamp tube, touch yor lead to pins 1 and then pin 2. Record the voltages, but what did you hear?
If you heard some popping when you touched pins 1 and 2 , then you probably have output, that's good.
If you heard the popping, then work backwards from pins 1 and 2 until you find where your signal is being lost.
Also check pin 3, you should have 1.5v or something close, if you have a lot more than that like 3v or higher, then check the ground on the cathode resistor.
Too much voltage on pin 3 will kill your signal.

Now when the guru's jump in they can help you from there.
Good luck and don't get frustrated.

[keithb7]

Maybe you have done this already but I like to set my DMM to test continuity with an audio beep confirming. I take a fresh new printed layout and a hi-lighter marker. Amp off, no power, caps drained, I check every single connection at both ends and hi-lite them on the paper as I go along. That way I don't miss anything. I start there and then that is out of the way.

[pryde]

Dang!

Sorry it did not fire up for you. I have nothing to offer but support from the sidelines. I just just received my metal lamp from triode and will be finishing mine soon. Good luck and I might be in the same boat as you soon