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Old October 20th, 2011, 04:53 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Soldering flux paste ???? Help

I'm using 60/40 solder and need some flux that will work with the rosin solder. Nobody seems to stock it around here.I tried Radio Shack but it's not the same,sticky kinda stuff..On line is so confusing that I haven't been able to figure out what is what. I think what I use to use was Kester and that's what I'd like to find..Need some qualified advice on what to buy and where I might find it..Thanks for any help I might get...PJ...

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Old October 20th, 2011, 05:07 PM   #2 (permalink)
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In my opinion, it's not necessary if using new pots and wiring. Flux is supposed to clean and prep surfaces for solder. I don't even use solder with the built in flux anymore. There's less smoke and the solder has less of a chance of running off to where it doesn't belong.
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Old October 20th, 2011, 05:07 PM   #3 (permalink)
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You want a Kester flux pen.
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Old October 20th, 2011, 05:58 PM   #4 (permalink)
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In my opinion, it's not necessary if using new pots and wiring. Flux is supposed to clean and prep surfaces for solder. I don't even use solder with the built in flux anymore. There's less smoke and the solder has less of a chance of running off to where it doesn't belong.
Mil specs require flux use to insure a good flow to all parts. There is a certification to do mil spec work, so while you have had no trouble, likely you will and it will be hell to try to find it
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Old October 20th, 2011, 06:23 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Old October 20th, 2011, 06:25 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Mil specs require flux use to insure a good flow to all parts. There is a certification to do mil spec work, so while you have had no trouble, likely you will and it will be hell to try to find it
Nah. Mil spec has nothing to do with guitar wiring.

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Old October 20th, 2011, 06:41 PM   #7 (permalink)
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You want a Kester flux pen.
+1 A flux pen is the best tool for the job, if you want the solder to flow nicely on a surface flux is the key. If you keep the cap on it'll last for quite a while, if you don't it'll evaporate quickly.

I usually get the 951 no clean version:

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Old October 20th, 2011, 06:59 PM   #8 (permalink)
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The Kester rosin pen is a good product. Radio Shack should also have rhis stuff:

Radio Shack Catalog #: 64-022



It doesn't hurt to have some flux on hand, but if you're using good rosin core solder (and Kester 44 is among the best), you shouldn't need it.
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Old October 20th, 2011, 07:28 PM   #9 (permalink)
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The Kester rosin pen is a good product. Radio Shack should also have rhis stuff:

Radio Shack Catalog #: 64-022



It doesn't hurt to have some flux on hand, but if you're using good rosin core solder (and Kester 44 is among the best), you shouldn't need it.
Yes Sir,that's what I have but it gets sticky/tacky after heat is applied..Terible time getting it off my fingers.I didn't have that experience with the Kester that I used for years.
I'm sure my solder is good stuff,don't remember the brand..I bought a full roll of it over 30 years ago.Still have a lot left..
Thank you for the suggestions..
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Old October 20th, 2011, 08:40 PM   #10 (permalink)
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You want a Kester flux pen.
Flux pen works for me too. Seems you can control it a little better when applying, too.
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Old December 2nd, 2011, 05:48 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I just picked up liquid flux from tube depot, haven't used it yet but it looked like less fuss than the paste.
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Old December 2nd, 2011, 08:16 PM   #12 (permalink)
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In the defense and aerospace industries where the requirement is to remove the flux after soldering, we use Kester 285 solder with 186 flux. This flux is billed as "mildly activated" and is supposedly non-corrosive over time if left on. This flux can still be re-activated in warm and humid conditions however, so we generally remove it. Very rarely should you need any more flux than what is in this solder already. Choose the right diameter solder for the job and the flux ratio should be more than enough to do it's job (I use .031" for all guitar amp type solder connections, smaller for PCB work). I may add some flux for NOS parts that have been sitting around for a while, or I'll clean the leads before soldering them. Different strokes...

For situations where the flux can't be removed for some reason, typically PCB's with open type components that won't hold up to the cleaning process, or if you don't want to or have to clean off flux, we use Kester 245 solder with 951 flux. TBH, I find this stuff to be just awful, this flux is completely wimpy and it's a crap shoot that the joint will flow. If you do plan on removing the flux, don't use no-clean solder and flux since it's not made to come off!!!!!

Also, don't mix flux types, no-clean with yes-clean, etc. They're not compatible!
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Old December 3rd, 2011, 09:10 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Thank you joeyvelour ,for your comprehensive answer based on facts and not speculation!
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