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| Shock Brother's DIY Amps Building or modding your amp? Then use this forum to discuss the process and show your pride and joy. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Pontiac Mi.
Age: 83
Posts: 2,175
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Soldering flux paste ???? Help
I'm using 60/40 solder and need some flux that will work with the rosin solder. Nobody seems to stock it around here.I tried Radio Shack but it's not the same,sticky kinda stuff..On line is so confusing that I haven't been able to figure out what is what. I think what I use to use was Kester and that's what I'd like to find..Need some qualified advice on what to buy and where I might find it..Thanks for any help I might get...PJ...
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#2 (permalink) |
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Poster Extraordinaire
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Southern, California
Posts: 5,113
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In my opinion, it's not necessary if using new pots and wiring. Flux is supposed to clean and prep surfaces for solder. I don't even use solder with the built in flux anymore. There's less smoke and the solder has less of a chance of running off to where it doesn't belong.
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Friend of Leo's
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Quote:
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Poster Extraordinaire
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Southern, California
Posts: 5,113
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Quote:
I'm cool, thanks... |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Age: 52
Posts: 392
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+1 A flux pen is the best tool for the job, if you want the solder to flow nicely on a surface flux is the key. If you keep the cap on it'll last for quite a while, if you don't it'll evaporate quickly.
I usually get the 951 no clean version: At Mouser Google Shopping Results |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Illinois
Posts: 2,761
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The Kester rosin pen is a good product. Radio Shack should also have rhis stuff:
Radio Shack Catalog #: 64-022 ![]() It doesn't hurt to have some flux on hand, but if you're using good rosin core solder (and Kester 44 is among the best), you shouldn't need it.
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Yet another hobby that is completely out of control... |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Friend of Leo's
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Pontiac Mi.
Age: 83
Posts: 2,175
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Quote:
I'm sure my solder is good stuff,don't remember the brand..I bought a full roll of it over 30 years ago.Still have a lot left.. Thank you for the suggestions..
__________________
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well-preserved body,but rather to skid in broadside,thoroughly used up,totally worn out,and loudly proclaiming:"WOW,what a ride!" |
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#12 (permalink) |
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TDPRI Member
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In the defense and aerospace industries where the requirement is to remove the flux after soldering, we use Kester 285 solder with 186 flux. This flux is billed as "mildly activated" and is supposedly non-corrosive over time if left on. This flux can still be re-activated in warm and humid conditions however, so we generally remove it. Very rarely should you need any more flux than what is in this solder already. Choose the right diameter solder for the job and the flux ratio should be more than enough to do it's job (I use .031" for all guitar amp type solder connections, smaller for PCB work). I may add some flux for NOS parts that have been sitting around for a while, or I'll clean the leads before soldering them. Different strokes...
For situations where the flux can't be removed for some reason, typically PCB's with open type components that won't hold up to the cleaning process, or if you don't want to or have to clean off flux, we use Kester 245 solder with 951 flux. TBH, I find this stuff to be just awful, this flux is completely wimpy and it's a crap shoot that the joint will flow. If you do plan on removing the flux, don't use no-clean solder and flux since it's not made to come off!!!!! Also, don't mix flux types, no-clean with yes-clean, etc. They're not compatible!
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